Suzana (Susana) 5B
5,00/5 (1 vote)




2724 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (10)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 24.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 7-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 8+
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Suzana 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsFace climbingRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alpinişti cehi
Date: 1975
First rotpunkt ascent: Dan Borcea


Route description

Pitch 1: First pitch has exactly 50 meters. We start climbing along the obvious left oriented crack. Climbing is not easy, having multiple hard sections. After the crack we go upwards on small crimps and pockets. The secret is to remember the pockets used for hand holds, to use them later as foot holds, as we will no longer see them from above. The pitch is fantastic.

Pitch 2: Continues upwards on pockets and nice free climbing. We arrive at an uncomfortable belay station (chemical anchor + bolt). Above and to the left we can see the platform from Hermann Buhl, but we must not go there, as our route continues to the right. This pitch is very short.

Pitch 3
: We continue upwards intersecting Hermann Buhl. Attention! We only climb 2-3 meters on Hermann Buhl, then traverse to the right along a loose ledge. We must pass over an overhang.

Pitch 4
: We will climb to the right. Belay station on the top.
Information source
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2014/07/2014-06-14-costila-traseul-suzana-din-tancul-mic-5b-8-7-a0-4lc.html
Foto - Titus Gonțea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2010/08/alpinism-mizantrotheosis-2010.html

Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we traverse Coştila Valley and climb the trail which leads us to the south of Ţancului Mic. We pass by many of the routes, stopping at an obvious left oriented crack (like a ramp). This is the first pitch.
Retreat route: We abseil the route.

Topo

Topo

Suzana
Suzana

Pictures


Suzana

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Suzana

User who climbed the route


LauraB - 10.09.2016, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Winter Alps Trilogy 2013 - 29.06.2013

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we traverse Coştila Valley and climb the trail which leads us to the south of Ţancului Mic. We pass by many of the routes, stopping at an obvious left oriented crack (like a ramp). This is the first pitch.
Retreat route: We abseil the route.

Equipment


Suzana

Comments