Today we celebrate 80 years since Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (Umărul Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 85 years since Brâna Aeriană - Creasta Văii Albe (Văi şi brâne) first ascent, 59 years since Hornul Piticului (Padina lui Călineţ) first ascent, 81 years since Traseul Sudic din Peretele Central (Peretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş) first ascent, 49 years since Traseul Citadela Sfărâmată (Citadela Sfărâmată) first ascent, 1 year since Hornul Izvorului (Văiuga) first ascent

Suzana 5B, 7+/8- (7-, A0)
5,00/5 (2 votes)




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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 20.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 7-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7+/8-
Type: Classic route

 Suzana 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 120 m
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsFace climbingRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alpinişti cehi
Date: 1975
Repaired: Ioni Mânzatu, Viorel Amzăroiu
Date: 11.09.2019
First rotpunkt ascent: Dan Borcea
First winter solo ascent: George Stroie (Bivuacu)


Route description

Pitch 1: First pitch has exactly 50 meters. We start climbing along the obvious left oriented crack. Climbing is not easy, having multiple hard sections. After the crack we go upwards on small crimps and pockets. The secret is to remember the pockets used for hand holds, to use them later as foot holds, as we will no longer see them from above. The pitch is fantastic.

Pitch 2: Continues upwards on pockets and nice free climbing. We arrive at an uncomfortable belay station (chemical anchor + bolt). Above and to the left we can see the platform from Hermann Buhl, but we must not go there, as our route continues to the right. This pitch is very short.

Pitch 3
: We continue upwards intersecting Hermann Buhl. Attention! We only climb 2-3 meters on Hermann Buhl, then traverse to the right along a loose ledge. We must pass over an overhang.

Pitch 4
: We will climb to the right. Belay station on the top.
Information source

Text - Vasile Dumitrică (2020)


Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we traverse Coştila Valley and climb the trail which leads us to the south of Ţancului Mic. We pass by many of the routes, stopping at an obvious left oriented crack (like a ramp). This is the first pitch.
Retreat route: We abseil the route.

Topo

Topo

Suzana
Suzana

Pictures


Suzana

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Diaries & links



Suzana

Users who climbed the route


Iulian Pobleanu - 12.09.2019, Vara
- 12.09.2019Multumiri Viorel Amzaroiu si Ioni Manzatu pentru reparatie!
Vasile Dumitrică - 08.09.2019, Vara
- 08.09.2019
LauraB - 10.09.2016, Vara
- 10.09.2016https://get.google.com/albumarchive/10608324874...

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Chereches Cristian

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we traverse Coştila Valley and climb the trail which leads us to the south of Ţancului Mic. We pass by many of the routes, stopping at an obvious left oriented crack (like a ramp). This is the first pitch.
Retreat route: We abseil the route.

Equipment


Suzana

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