Today we celebrate Silviu Corciovei, who reached the beautiful age of 34 years. Happy birthday!. Today we celebrate 58 years since Traseul din Canionul Judele (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 58 years since Custura cu Campanule din faţa Sud-Estică a Judelui (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 58 years since Muchia Vârfului Mic (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 58 years since Custura Judelui (Creasta Custurilor) (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 49 years since Traseul Frontal (Creasta Nord-Estică) (Santinela Cheii) first ascent

Hardy (Hardy) 5B, 8- (7, A0)
3,50/5 (2 votes)




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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 14.05.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 7
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 8-
Type: Classic route

 Hardy 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3-4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsFace climbingTraverse

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Florescu
Repaired: Cornel Sain
First rotpunkt ascent: Dan Borcea


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first length begins with a small crack (step of the route?), after that continue up the face.

The second length departure to the left, and then right after that it continues dept in the top few meters, joint with the route Abyssus Inexpugnabilis, up to a wider one, that the horizontal of grass, on which it continues right, until in the pool (at the junction with the route of Hermann Buhl).

The third length departure to the right, and then follow the line spiturilor up, after which continue to the right, on the place where he fell from a plate. Once beyond this place, we see the grouping on the left, some on pillows of grass.

Fourth length in the up on a crack wide and without insurance, then along a crack-arcade oriented upward left, on line pitonslor.

Notes:

the first three lengths are secured with anchors mechanical and a few pitons old but solid;
the length of the IV is secured with old nails, sometimes spaced, some of dubious quality;
the first two lengths are short and would work related with half ropes of 60m.
Information source
romaniaquest.com - http://www.romaniaquest.com/climbing/topo/romania/Regiunea-Centrala/Masivul-Bucegi---Busteni/Costila/Tancul-Mic?p=1&r=801

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    

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Vasile Dumitrică - 21.07.2016
- 21.07.2016

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GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    

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