Hardy 5B, 8- (7, A0)
3,50/5 (2 votes)

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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 04.03.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 7
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 8-
Type: Classic route

Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3-4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsMechanical anchorsFace climbingTraverse

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Florescu
Repaired: Cornel Sain
First rotpunkt ascent: Dan Borcea
First winter ascent: Cornel Sain, Titus Gonţea

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first pitch starts with a small crack (step of the route?), after that we continue up to the face.

The second length, starting at the left, and then right after that it continues as in the above, a few feet away, shared with the route of the Abyssus Inexpugnabilis, before a wider one, that of the horizontal to the grass, which they keep right up to the pool (at the junction with the route of Hermann Buhl).

The third is the length starting at the right, and then follow the line of the spiturilor at the top, and after that keep to the right, on the spot where she fell to her plate. Once you were past the spot, we can see the grouping on the left, on balls of your feet instead of grass.

The fourth in length on the top of a crack array, and without insurance, along with a crack-the arch facing upward, left, on the pitonslor.


the first three of the lengths are secured with anchors, the mechanical, and the several hands of the old, but robust;
the length of the IV is secured by the nails of the old, sometimes widely spaced, some of them of doubtful quality;
the first two of the lengths are short, and they work related with the half ropes of 60m.
Information source
romaniaquest.com - http://www.romaniaquest.com/climbing/topo/romania/Regiunea-Centrala/Masivul-Bucegi---Busteni/Costila/Tancul-Mic?p=1&r=801

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    






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Users who climbed the route

Vasile Dumitrică - 21.07.2016
- 21.07.2016

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GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"