Abyssus Inexpugnabilis 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Vasile Dumitrică la data de 25.06.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 8+
Quickdraws: Seven
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Titus Gonţea 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsMechanical anchorsFace climbingFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Titus Gonţea, Cătălin Pădure, Adi Cernea
Date: 16.11.2008

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is 4 in length and it has the character of the directissima, with the entrance at the right side of the trail the Hardy and out to the left of the route of The, at the top of ?ancului a kid. The rock is extremely compact, and the sound, and the difficulties of the peak in the length of the 3rd. Titus was followed by a Cloud Forest (Batranu), and Ida Here. Along the way they have been used for 20 insurance of fixed (19 in the anchors + 1 anchor), the intermediate, and the 2 anchors in the pool.

The first length From the entry point on the crack of the Hardy's, you have to cross right at a steady 3 m, on the wafers before they get the first insurance policy, a hospital, which, once exceeded, leads into a fissure left oblique, it receives some number lower if necessary. The plugs are good and one's brown-bagging it helps the overcoming of the rift, at the end of which you can fix for a friend. The front of the top of the ask for a lift, sir, but the plugs become larger. Another to mark the passage of a new face, where the inclination of the wall, it returns to the vertical. The route continues, slightly skew right, where you'll meet the other 2 expansion bolts in succession, situated at a distance of approx. 3 m from each other. In this area, and these passages increase in difficulty. After the last of the insurance, the track is turning slightly left, across the face down, and then up to 2 m up a ramp and to the left, up on a platform, comfortable, every where later, at 6 m above the first sorry. from the Hardy boys.
The two in length: The pool pass it around to the left, crossing a difficult passage, for balance, until you get on the first spit of the union. 3. On top of the route of the encountered alert. Hardy, the the browse of a few meters in the common (leaving the length of the 2-to-Hardy), in a face-down. When you meet the girdle from the top, dashed over to a hospital, don't cross it, but go beyond the spitul to the right, straight on to the front of the top, by means of an exit more difficult. A new spit up on my face, he leads us on a dihedral angle and very light, but that are no longer in the insurance business. Here, the potential of a fall is greater. The passage is hard and soft at the end, culminating in the output of the above, the boat ramp in Hermann Buhl, at the pool, with 2 anchors, chemical make-up. I don't come back here, but out front the top to the right, ensuring that spitul basis of the above. Bringing together a get a few feet away from the traverseu on big holds.
The third length Is a path is particularly rich in passages that hard, it's very, very athletic and impressive, but it does not pose a risk. Basically, the face of a 35m, which starts slow and surplombeaza, in the end, the last 5 km. It contains 7 of expansion bolts. Departure to the first anchor, it is the light, the plugs are good. Picking up the first anchor, it makes the intakes of the f. small hands and feet because my foot is a little treptu?a the essence of balance and the clutch. The overcoming of the 2nd and the 3rd anchor is the most difficult, the ac is of the symbolic, and far apart, but 4 of the anchor bolt shall be provided from the sockets pretty good, but the front of the top is really nice and soft. Hand of a finger, and the lack of plugs on the right are doing a very difficult one. The above is a bidoigt, and the other plugs a good run in the 5-a anchor, but if whatever is good, hold on, we're back on the outlets, the bad, and the very few, but the best "falls" a little bit. By doing a little traverseu to the right, and find a pocket of good in the hands, followed by some small rapids, and the edges slightly left of the top. Make sure with 6 of the anchor, followed by a lift-without a lot of trouble. The outlets are pretty good, but the wall is starting to surplombeze, and it's great. The passage which follows is made in a semi-circle to the left, on the side of it (under the anchor 7) with the large plugs in her hand. The end of the length, it's a free up and slightly left until you get the grouping, which is common with The, a little, "anyone can do", over the surplombei. The fourth long Face, what should be deleted leaving the last one just beyond the front of the first insurance because it's very close. We catch up with the help of a threshold, and the two recesses, the first of which is bad. There are two large plugs, the first one was a bidoigt to the left and then to the right is a hole in the side of the second insurance, and the outlet on one side, with the plugs higher, but it still won't be easy. The front on top of a crack leads to a 3-a anchor-point of the cross 1 meter right to the prize the best. The passage that follows is the passing with the aid of some cracks on reverse, slightly loose. On top we find a level of grit and a socket, where the assured has 4 of the anchor. This is slightly right, but we'll be back on the ramp and to the left to find an outlet to the sea, followed by a new face with a rock as big as some melons, are embedded. We get a little brâna, and a couple of junipers, we cross out the exit at the ridge. The route goes on the front of the top, next to the pines, to the left of them, out on the ridge close to the summit, where the trail ends. Ensure we're doing it at a tree, in a thick juniper.
Information source
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/
Silvia Murgescu - https://www.facebook.com/silvia.murgescu/media_set?set=a.1728256393874569.1073741898.100000706740290&type=3&pnref=story
fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/Descrieri/Abyssus-Inexpugnabilis.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    



Sursă: Titus Gonţea, Silvia Murgescu
Abyssus Inexpugnabilis


Sursă: Titus Gonţea

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Diaries & links

Sursă: Titus Gonţea

Users who climbed the route

Vasile Dumitrică - 02.09.2018, Vara
- 02.09.2018
Flavius P. - 17.09.2016
- 17.09.2016

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    


Quickdraws: Seven
Cams and nuts: Seven
Additional equipment: Seven
Sursă: Titus Gonţea