Route description The route has two entrances, the one from the top is easier (and it is also the original route). The route is very well protected, with good pitons and chemical anchors. With 2 half ropes we can go down from any belay station with only one abseil.
Pitch 1 (40m, 6+) - We climb upwards aiming for a dihedral/crack left oriented. We climb it until the end, then start a horizontal traverse to the right, over a boulder, then continue on a ledge (where we find an intermediate belay station). From here we traverse further 3 meters, until we intersect the harder variant, which comes from the right. We start climbing a slab (6+), aiming for the chimney above us. We climb 2/3 of the chimney, then climb the ridge the left, where we find the belay station.
Pitch 2 (25m, 6) - We start traversing to the left (a descending traverse) until a small ridge. We continue traversing over the ridge, than continue with easy climbing until we reach the belay station on a grassy ledge. Short and easy pitch.
Pitch 3 (40m, 6/6+) - We climb a ramp, left oriented, having a short discontinuity in the middle (a short 2 meter face). After we finish the ramp, we will find an intermediate belay station (2 bolts), but the pitch continues, passing over an overhang on the left side. We continue with a crack until we reach a ledge and a belay station.
Pitch 4 (40m, 7-) - Beware, the route does not continue on the chimney just above the belay station (we see some pitons, but they are from Mizantrotheosis route). We start climbing upwards 3-4 meters, then traverse to the left, climb a left oriented crack, which leads us to a small overhanging face climbing. Here is the crux of the route, and it has many pitons. We can try to free climb it or we can aid climb. After this we continue upwards to the left (here we will see an intermediate belay station), continue with some easy climbing on a dihedral and arrive at a tree. Here is a well known place at Coştila, ”Loc pentru fumat” (Place for smokers). We can make a belay station here, or continue upwards 5 meters and arrive on the ridge of Ţancul Mic.
Information source Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/hermann-buhl-5a-4lc-7_19.html
Topo:
- Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/hermann-buhl-5a-4lc-7_19.html
- Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/
- Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/08/tr-herman-buhl-5a.html
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