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Today we celebrate 53 years since Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile) (Turnul Goliat) first ascent, 14 years since Out of Fuel (Prima faleză) first ascent, 14 years since Enter The Dragon (Prima faleză) first ascent

Hermann Buhl 5A, 7- (6, A0)
4,75/5 (4 votes)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (60)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Equipment
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 02.07.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Quickdraws: 18-20
Type: Classic route
 Hermann Buhl 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsTraverseCrackGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Doru Vasilescu, Emil Fodoreanu
Date: 09.07.1966
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu

Route description

The route has two entrances, the one from the top is easier (and it is also the original route). The route is very well protected, with good pitons and chemical anchors. With 2 half ropes we can go down from any belay station with only one abseil.

Pitch 1 (40m, 6+) - We climb upwards aiming for a dihedral/crack left oriented. We climb it until the end, then start a horizontal traverse to the right, over a boulder, then continue on a ledge (where we find an intermediate belay station). From here we traverse further 3 meters, until we intersect the harder variant, which comes from the right. We start climbing a slab (6+), aiming for the chimney above us. We climb 2/3 of the chimney, then climb the ridge the left, where we find the belay station.

Pitch 2 (25m, 6) - We start traversing to the left (a descending traverse) until a small ridge. We continue traversing over the ridge, than continue with easy climbing until we reach the belay station on a grassy ledge. Short and easy pitch.

Pitch 3 (40m, 6/6+) - We climb a ramp, left oriented, having a short discontinuity in the middle (a short 2 meter face). After we finish the ramp, we will find an intermediate belay station (2 bolts), but the pitch continues, passing over an overhang on the left side. We continue with a crack until we reach a ledge and a belay station.

Pitch 4 (40m, 7-) - Beware, the route does not continue on the chimney just above the belay station (we see some pitons, but they are from Mizantrotheosis route). We start climbing upwards 3-4 meters, then traverse to the left, climb a left oriented crack, which leads us to a small overhanging face climbing. Here is the crux of the route, and it has many pitons. We can try to free climb it or we can aid climb. After this we continue upwards to the left (here we will see an intermediate belay station), continue with some easy climbing on a dihedral and arrive at a tree. Here is a well known place at Coştila, ”Loc pentru fumat” (Place for smokers). We can make a belay station here, or continue upwards 5 meters and arrive on the ridge of Ţancul Mic.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/hermann-buhl-5a-4lc-7_19.html
Topo:
 - Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/hermann-buhl-5a-4lc-7_19.html
 - Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/
 - Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/08/tr-herman-buhl-5a.html

Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: From Coştila Reffuge we traverse Coştila Valley, then go right to the base of Ţancul Mic. We will find written on the wall Hermann Buhl with red paint, but the first entrance is harder (and a variant to the original route). For the easier variant we go up another 10-15 meters.
Retreat route: From the saddle we go left on the other side of the ridge following a path, where we will find fixed ropes. After this we traverse a small pinnacle, and arrive at a tee with a few slings for abseil. After a 20 meter abseil, we follow the path under Ţancul Mic, and arrive in 5 minutes at Coştila Reffuge.

Topo

Topo

Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl

Pictures

Hermann Buhl

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Diaries & links


  • 24.06.2017 Vali Oprea, Alexandru Dumitrescu
  • 24.08.2016 Vali Oprea, Victor Porancia
  • 24.07.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Junioru
  • 03.07.2016 Vali Oprea
 Hermann Buhl

Users who climbed the route


Popa Razvan - 15.09.2020
 - 15.09.2020
Iulian B - 06.09.2020
 - 06.09.2020
Bogdan Lazar - 02.08.2020, Vara
 - 02.08.2020
Valentin Mozes - 02.08.2020, Vara
 - 02.08.2020
Bogdan Lazăr - 01.07.2020, Vara
 - 01.07.2020
Constantinescu Anita - 17.05.2020
 - 17.05.2020
Razvan Hotea - 22.09.2019, Vara
 - 22.09.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 22.09.2019, Vara
 - 22.09.2019
Bărbuț Andrei - 15.09.2019, Vara
 - 15.09.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 24.08.2019
 - 24.08.2019am avut timp doar pentru primele 2 lungimi
Cosmin Nicola - 08.08.2019, Vara
 - 08.08.2019
Adrian Scurtu - 05.08.2019, Vara
 - 05.08.2019
Cristian Marin - 03.07.2019, Vara
 - 03.07.2019
Vasile Dumitrică - 16.06.2019, Vara
 - 16.06.2019Se poate coborî într-un rapel cu sfori de 60 de la locul pentru fumat.
Jabon - 19.05.2019, Vara
 - 19.05.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 02.02.2019, Iarna
 - 02.02.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 26.05.2018
 - 26.05.2018cu intrarea clasica
Alexandru Baran - 08.12.2017, Iarna
 - 08.12.2017
Iulia Darie - 04.06.2017, Vara
 - 04.06.2017
Alexandru Baran - 17.11.2016
 - 17.11.2016Parcurs la bocanci, dar fara zapada
LauraB - 14.06.2014, Vara
 - 14.06.2014
Marian Anghel - 01.07.1998, Vara
 - 01.07.1998
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
 - 01.08.1980
Wilhelm Martini - 19.05.1979, Vara
 - 19.05.1979
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Cristian Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Stefan
Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2011

Map

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Retreat route: From the saddle we go left on the other side of the ridge following a path, where we will find fixed ropes. After this we traverse a small pinnacle, and arrive at a tee with a few slings for abseil. After a 20 meter abseil, we follow the path under Ţancul Mic, and arrive in 5 minutes at Coştila Reffuge.

Equipment

Quickdraws: 18-20
Hermann Buhl

Comments