Fisura Însorită (The Sunny Crack) 5A
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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (25)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Quickdraws: 18
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCrackGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Enache (Ceaca), Pompiliu Pascu
Date: 1958
Repaired: Cornel Sain
Date: 19.07.2015


Route description

Pitch 1 - Starts with some face climbing, then enter a left oriented dihedral, slightly overhanging. After this we continue on a crack, left oriented and after a few meters we continue on an easier right oriented crack, which we follow until we reach the belay station under a big boulder.
The pitch has no more than 20 meters. The dihedral is grade 7 (6b) in free climbing, and it has good protection. We can also aid climb this section.

Pitch 2 - Goes to the right, over a step, then goes on a vertical dihedral, followed by some face climbing on a plate, then we find the belay station near a pinnacle. Beyond this pinnacle, to the right, we can find the belay station from Fisura Răsucită. The pitch is easy, max 5+/6-and a total length of 20 meters. It is best if we can link the first 2 pitches.

Pitch 3 - Goes upwards 2 meters, then we start traversing to the left about 3 meters, over a face with not so many holds, grade 6+. After the traverse we climb vertically and to the left on an easy crack until we reach a ledge where we can find an intermediate belay station (chemical anchor + bolt). From here we climb vertical towards the base of some overhanging steps, which we climb on the left, grade 6+. After this section we enter a grassy wide crack, which leads us towards the junipers, then 5 meters of horizontal traverse to the left, we make a belay station at a solid tree. Pitch has 45 meters and it is best if we use long slings. We can also use the intermediate belay station to climb this pitch as 2 pitches.

Pitch 4 - Continues with an easy pitch, max 5+, then exits on the ridge, continuing on Fisura Răsucită.


Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/07/fisura-insorita-5a-5lc-7-6a1_1.html
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/search/label/Tr.%20Fisura%20Insorita%205A

Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
Retreat route: After the first 3 pitches we can make 2 abseils and we are at the bottom of the wall. First abseil, 20 meters, we abseil to the first belay station of Hermann Buhl. From here we make a second abseil, 40 meters. If we are with a single rope we can make an intermediate abseil on Hermann Buhl, on 2 chemical anchors.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Însorită
Fisura Însorită

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries


  • 16.08.2016 Vali Oprea, Alexandru Dumitrescu
  • 30.07.2012 Alin Brădeanu
  • 10.07.2011 Camelia Varsescu

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User who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 17.06.2018
Razvan Hotea - 12.05.2018, Vara
Iulian Pobleanu - 12.05.2018, Vara
Ad Rian - 05.05.2018, Vara
Jabon - 05.05.2018, Vara
Rosmalin Alin - 30.09.2017, Vara
Ad Rian - 09.09.2017
Andrei Holban - 28.04.2017, Vara
Ad Rian - 28.04.2017, Vara
Andrei Holban - 19.07.2015, Vara
Marian Anghel - 01.05.1997, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
Wilhelm Martini - 05.11.1977
Cristian Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Iulia Darie
Chereches Cristian
Rosmalin Alin

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Retreat route: After the first 3 pitches we can make 2 abseils and we are at the bottom of the wall. First abseil, 20 meters, we abseil to the first belay station of Hermann Buhl. From here we make a second abseil, 40 meters. If we are with a single rope we can make an intermediate abseil on Hermann Buhl, on 2 chemical anchors.

Equipment


Quickdraws: 18
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Comments