Today we celebrate 73 years since Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului) (Peretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 62 years since Traseul Izvorului (Peretele Padinei Închise) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 61 years since Traseul Floarea de Colţ (Turnul Mare al Dianei) first ascent.  

Fisura Însorită (The Sunny Crack) 5A
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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (25)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Equipment
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Quickdraws: 18
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCrackGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Enache (Ceaca), Pompiliu Pascu
Date: 1958
Repaired: Cornel Sain
Date: 19.07.2015


Route description

Pitch 1 - Starts with some face climbing, then enter a left oriented dihedral, slightly overhanging. After this we continue on a crack, left oriented and after a few meters we continue on an easier right oriented crack, which we follow until we reach the belay station under a big boulder.
The pitch has no more than 20 meters. The dihedral is grade 7 (6b) in free climbing, and it has good protection. We can also aid climb this section.

Pitch 2 - Goes to the right, over a step, then goes on a vertical dihedral, followed by some face climbing on a plate, then we find the belay station near a pinnacle. Beyond this pinnacle, to the right, we can find the belay station from Fisura Răsucită. The pitch is easy, max 5+/6-and a total length of 20 meters. It is best if we can link the first 2 pitches.

Pitch 3 - Goes upwards 2 meters, then we start traversing to the left about 3 meters, over a face with not so many holds, grade 6+. After the traverse we climb vertically and to the left on an easy crack until we reach a ledge where we can find an intermediate belay station (chemical anchor + bolt). From here we climb vertical towards the base of some overhanging steps, which we climb on the left, grade 6+. After this section we enter a grassy wide crack, which leads us towards the junipers, then 5 meters of horizontal traverse to the left, we make a belay station at a solid tree. Pitch has 45 meters and it is best if we use long slings. We can also use the intermediate belay station to climb this pitch as 2 pitches.

Pitch 4 - Continues with an easy pitch, max 5+, then exits on the ridge, continuing on Fisura Răsucită.


Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/07/fisura-insorita-5a-5lc-7-6a1_1.html
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/search/label/Tr.%20Fisura%20Insorita%205A

Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Retreat route: After the first 3 pitches we can make 2 abseils and we are at the bottom of the wall. First abseil, 20 meters, we abseil to the first belay station of Hermann Buhl. From here we make a second abseil, 40 meters. If we are with a single rope we can make an intermediate abseil on Hermann Buhl, on 2 chemical anchors.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Însorită
Fisura Însorită

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries


  • 16.08.2016 Vali Oprea, Alexandru Dumitrescu
  • 30.07.2012 Alin Brădeanu
  • 10.07.2011 Camelia Varsescu

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User who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 17.06.2018
Razvan Hotea - 12.05.2018, Vara
Iulian Pobleanu - 12.05.2018, Vara
Ad Rian - 05.05.2018, Vara
Jabon - 05.05.2018, Vara
Rosmalin Alin - 30.09.2017, Vara
Ad Rian - 09.09.2017
Andrei Holban - 28.04.2017, Vara
Ad Rian - 28.04.2017, Vara
Andrei Holban - 19.07.2015, Vara
Marian Anghel - 01.05.1997, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
Wilhelm Martini - 05.11.1977
Cristian Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Rosmalin Alin
Chereches Cristian
Iulia Darie

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Retreat route: After the first 3 pitches we can make 2 abseils and we are at the bottom of the wall. First abseil, 20 meters, we abseil to the first belay station of Hermann Buhl. From here we make a second abseil, 40 meters. If we are with a single rope we can make an intermediate abseil on Hermann Buhl, on 2 chemical anchors.

Equipment


Quickdraws: 18
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Comments