Fisura Răsucită (The Curly Crack) 4B, 6+ (6, A0)
4,50/5 (4 votes)




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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (57)
  • Video (3)
  • Map
  • Equipment
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adrian Scurtu la data de 24.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Quickdraws: 16-18
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCrackGrassLoose rocksFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Pompiliu Pascu, Florin Stan
Date: 20.08.1956


Route description

Pitch 1 starts with an ascending traverse to the right, over a plate/tiny pinnacle, then upwards 8 meters until we reach a ledge, at the base of a crack. There is an intermediate belay point here. We can continue, climbing the left face, until we reach a small overhang, which we can pass by directly or avoid it to the left. After this section we turn right to a dead tree where is the belay station.

Pitch 2 follows 6-7 meters a vertical crack, then start an ascending traverse to the right a few meters towards a detached stone. We will step on it carefully, then the route climbs vertically another few meters, then start another horizontal traverse to the right towards a big boulder, near a wooden stump. Usually here we make the belay station, but we can continue another few meters, passing by some junipers, as we will find a better belay station, larger and more spacious. Pay attention how you clip in the ropes, as it is a sinuous pitch.

Pitch 3 we start climbing to the left, over a plate, towards a small loose dihedral, which has some junipers in its upper part. The first piton is also in the upper part of the dihedral. After this section we will climb a few meters to the left, then a short down climb to the right towards the belay station. Common belay station with Fisura Însorită. From here we can abseil Fisura Însorită to the bottom of the wall.

Pitch 4 starts with a crack to the left of the belay station. On this crack there are plenty of pitons, and in the upper part we will have a "pipe" with a ring. After passing by this section we will climb a few meters, then make a short traverse to the left, then climb a loose step towards some junipers. The step is tricky and loose, with the last protection far below us, so we must be very careful. We make a belay station at the roots and branches of the junipers.

We will continue on the ridge until we reach the saddle where Hermann Buhl finishes. From there we continue on the small ledge, equipped by Cornel Sain with a static rope (like a via ferrata), until we reach another saddle where we will find a big tree with a piton and some ropes. With a 20 meter abseil we are back on the trail at the base of the wall.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/05/creasta-generalului-si-fisura-rasucita_18.html
Mihai Dăițoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/08/fisura-rasucita.html

Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    

Topo

Topo

Fisura Răsucită
Fisura Răsucită

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 23.07.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Junioru

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Users who climbed the route


Boghi Bear - 28.09.2019
- 28.09.2019
Dorin Cristea - 06.09.2019, Vara
- 06.09.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 24.08.2019
- 24.08.2019
Adrian Scurtu - 21.07.2019, Vara
- 21.07.2019Prima lungime.
Andrei - 30.06.2019, Vara
- 30.06.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 08.06.2019
- 08.06.2019
Andrei - 18.01.2019, Iarna
- 18.01.2019
Alexandru Baran - 18.01.2019, Iarna
- 18.01.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 24.11.2018, Iarna
- 24.11.2018pria lungime exclusiv la coltari si pioleti
Constantinescu Anita - 10.11.2018
- 10.11.2018
Iulia Darie - 07.10.2018, Vara
- 07.10.2018Poze aici -> http://goo.gl/GZFkDh
Jabon - 07.10.2018, Vara
- 07.10.2018Poze aici -> http://goo.gl/GZFkDh
Adi Min - 18.08.2018, Vara
- 18.08.2018
Dorin Cristea - 18.08.2018, Vara
- 18.08.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 09.08.2018
- 09.08.2018
Constantinescu Anita - 16.06.2018
- 16.06.2018
Constantinescu Anita - 08.09.2017, Vara
- 08.09.2017
Adrian Scurtu - 02.09.2017
- 02.09.2017
Adrian Mihai - 14.07.2017
- 14.07.2017
Andrei - 28.04.2017, Vara
- 28.04.2017
Adi Min - 28.04.2017, Vara
- 28.04.2017
Andrei - 17.09.2016, Vara
- 17.09.2016
Mihai Barbu - 17.09.2016, Vara
- 17.09.2016
Adi Min - 05.07.2014, Vara
- 05.07.2014
LauraB - 05.07.2014, Vara
- 05.07.2014
Andrei - 22.09.2013
- 22.09.2013
Marian Anghel - 01.05.1997, Vara
- 01.05.1997
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Wilhelm Martini - 22.08.1979, Vara
- 22.08.1979
Cristian Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 21.07.2019

Video - Sebustab - 31.10.2009

Video - Sebustab - 31.10.2009

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    

Equipment


Quickdraws: 16-18
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Comments