Today we celebrate 61 years since Trandafirul Negru (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent

Bivuacul Caprelor 3B, 6a (5a+, A0)
4,40/5 (5 votes)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (17)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 19.07.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 5a+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6a
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Rupi (2014) 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsChemical anchorsWooden pegsGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Doru Vasilescu
Date: 1977
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: we have a board a little bit down, and her left hand is an anchor to the chemical. We began the ascent of the right-hand side montînd to a friend, or a nut, through and then to the left by the anchor of a chemical, then all of the left over the grass to a small dihedral of about 6 m at the base of which is engraved with a coat of white paint on the name of the route. The climb's not out of the question. At the exit from the dihedral cross to the right side about 2 or 3m, then they get a little gut by a 4 m high slightly right and up by the pool. The grouping is convenient and secure, an anchor, and an anchor-chemical. From here all the way down it shouldn't be more than 15m.

LC-2: From the first pool you have to cross a few yards to the right, and then use a small dihedral with a crack pitonata, in which the upper is stitched to a wooden dowel from those who came before us. A little higher up out of the dihedral to the left of a small burtita as soon as this step is to get in the pool. The length is well-equipped, and the on the face of the burtita they are clean enough, close enough to get help from them if you can't get out in the open.

LC-3: it HAS three long leaves on the top for a chimney-piece of dark. Here we have a little bit of attention to her plate, which is immediately to the right of the pool that is separated from the wall. Climb the chimney, it's not exactly difficult as it may seem, especially because it is very well secured. I haven't been able to go up the chimney, through the ramonaj so I went with a ?prai? for the passage of the first portion and then I went to work on the front of his left hand. Out of the chimney, it comes out to the left brittle on a plate, angled long, about 15m. Rings are a bit more rare (6), but not enough. As soon as it's over the plate, the trail goes vertical about 4 m into a triangular depression where you have 3 hands, that even with anou high for the rally. It is recommended to try and regroup, or else the strings will be rubbing very hard on the next length.

LK 4: we Continue up the ascending right across the face, and then the crack-the-groin, to the left and go up the wood, and give it to an area of crumbly, and earth, and the re of the tree, with cords.
Information source
Completari: Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In order to get to the start of the route to be followed, the path which leads to the Brîna the Air and on the Vîlcelul Rocky, we'll leave the trail, heading up the faces to the right (i.e., ascending) to the base of the wall by a ceiling-high, easily visible from the trail, and streamlining all the way to the right side of the wall.
Retreat route: For the withdrawal I just made a mirror of the long half ropes of 60m until the bottom of the base of the route, overhanging climbing, with a Pendulum, but it can be done in two pieces because of the same line, there are two pools on this route, or even two ropes of 50 m for the base of the trail above us, we went to 7-8m, on the steps of the grass, and after that all we have left are non-kind of the 3m of rope.

Topo

Topo

Bivuacul Caprelor
Bivuacul Caprelor

Pictures


Sursa foto: Rupi (2014)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursa foto: Rupi (2014)

Users who climbed the route


Iulian Bogatu - 18.07.2020
- 18.07.2020La plecare in lc 3 si la iesire din hornul din aceeasi lungime sunt 2 placi din care se pot rupe bucati serioase. Mai ales la iesirea din horn tb alese prizele cu grija, altfel cad pe secund. Am unit lc3 cu lc 4, dar corzile au frecat f tare.
Dorin Cristea - 31.08.2019
- 31.08.2019
Horjea Eugen - 07.07.2019, Vara
- 07.07.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 07.07.2019
- 07.07.2019
Jabon - 07.07.2019
- 07.07.2019
Adrian Scurtu - 15.08.2018
- 15.08.2018
LauraB - 21.07.2017, Vara
- 21.07.2017https://get.google.com/albumarchive/10608324874...
LauraB - 20.07.2014, Vara
- 20.07.2014
Cristian Popescu - 03.07.2012, Vara
- 03.07.2012
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Users who wish to climb the route


Bogdan Lazăr

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Urucu Marius - 15.09.2019

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In order to get to the start of the route to be followed, the path which leads to the Brîna the Air and on the Vîlcelul Rocky, we'll leave the trail, heading up the faces to the right (i.e., ascending) to the base of the wall by a ceiling-high, easily visible from the trail, and streamlining all the way to the right side of the wall.
Retreat route: For the withdrawal I just made a mirror of the long half ropes of 60m until the bottom of the base of the route, overhanging climbing, with a Pendulum, but it can be done in two pieces because of the same line, there are two pools on this route, or even two ropes of 50 m for the base of the trail above us, we went to 7-8m, on the steps of the grass, and after that all we have left are non-kind of the 3m of rope.

Equipment


Sursa foto: Rupi (2014)

Comments