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Surplomba cu Pendul (Surplomba with Pendulum) 4A, 7- (6, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 05.01.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Classic route

 Surplomba cu Pendul 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsChemical anchorsOverhangTraverseFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Gheorghe Dan, Nicolae Ion
Date: 1977
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - out to the right through some boulders with rapids and after about 3 km to get lost upward to the ceiling of a large, very noticeable below. There rises relatively straight, with small deviations left-right, on the slabs and boulders that strew the rapids, following the line pitonslor and anchors chemical is put on the reconstruction of Dan Vasilescu. Length, especially in the beginning, it's easy crumbly and does not exceed level 6+. They, including approximately 40m wide on the platform, located approximately 6 km on the right edge of the ceiling.

LC2 - go left upward to the ceiling than to the swash then crosses horizontally to the left below it. At the end of the left wall to make the angle and a few meters above, on a small threshold, is belay station. The part after the corner contains a route key and pendulum which I have not experienced. I went up a passage through the territory of the rising left wing, on the line of the anchor, the place where I sat and railings for the assistant referees (my and Mihai). The length I think on 20m. The step that overlooked the pool, after something for?ari, I believe, in extent 7.

LC3 - Leave ascending on the left anterior inclined in the course of one dihedral-crack, then up to the face. Included in chimneyule? of several meters, which has in its upper right zada. Here on i?irea from chimneyule?, we use horizontally right-click on zada then climb to the right on several thresholds grass to the plate of stone on which is located the anchor and python, solid, where belay station. Attention, the output of chimneyule? does not continue upwards. Although, it seems, ca?arabil and will be the natural line of the route is not there. Length estimates, up to 25 m and the maximum degree 6/6+.

The route you can continue up the path from Brâna Airlines, 2 more length, but everything moves and breaks in the hands and feet, and pitons are not. Line length 2 "for inspiration".
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/surplomba-cu-pendul-3lc-7_24.html
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: To get to the beginning of the route you need to follow the path that leads to Brîna Airlines and at the intersection with Rocky Vîlcelul, leaving the path up on the right person (I mean climb) to the base of the wall with the ceiling of the great, seen from the trailhead, orientîndu us on the right side of the wall.
Retreat route: From the rearrangement of the raised right on a small plate, providing python, learned something above, 2 meters above, he goes through several jnepeni except horizontally to the left, then upwards a few meters, then we do right click on the curve within the backside and jnepeni, cautînd grade the path between them, the path that goes down after about 10-15m on zada that has associated with it some cordeline. Here the access to the route Bivuacul goats. After zada is booster 55m to the base of our route or two rapeluri the shorter one about 20 m to the first belay station and another about 35m before the Foundation of the first length. Hence we amplifier on 30 meters in the ass to the bone Vîlcelului Rocky.

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Topo

Surplomba cu Pendul
Surplomba cu Pendul

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Surplomba cu Pendul

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Surplomba cu Pendul

Users who climbed the route


Andrei - 11.09.2014
- 11.09.2014
Cristian Popescu - 24.05.2013, Vara
- 24.05.2013
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: To get to the beginning of the route you need to follow the path that leads to Brîna Airlines and at the intersection with Rocky Vîlcelul, leaving the path up on the right person (I mean climb) to the base of the wall with the ceiling of the great, seen from the trailhead, orientîndu us on the right side of the wall.
Retreat route: From the rearrangement of the raised right on a small plate, providing python, learned something above, 2 meters above, he goes through several jnepeni except horizontally to the left, then upwards a few meters, then we do right click on the curve within the backside and jnepeni, cautînd grade the path between them, the path that goes down after about 10-15m on zada that has associated with it some cordeline. Here the access to the route Bivuacul goats. After zada is booster 55m to the base of our route or two rapeluri the shorter one about 20 m to the first belay station and another about 35m before the Foundation of the first length. Hence we amplifier on 30 meters in the ass to the bone Vîlcelului Rocky.

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Surplomba cu Pendul

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