Traseul Oblic (The Route Of The Oblique) 3B, 7 (6+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 05.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7
Type: Classic route

 Traseul Oblic 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsSlabCrackGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Radu Slăvoacă
Date: 1973
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu


Information source
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/surplomba-cu-pendul-3lc-7_24.html
Descriere actualizată: Rupi, Dorin Cristea.

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: Up on the left side of the Vâlcelului rock outcrop on the trail until it takes a horizontal to the left. At the base of the slope, as the one, the one with the Wall of the Vâlcelului Rocky, we've seen a big slab of stone beneath which is a small cave, glancing. On the wall above the trees, we can see a beetle at the bottom is darkened by the infiltration (of the overhanging climbing, with a Pendulum). Down in talveg, and climb up a few feet, through the debris, and then return to the downstream going up diagonally on the steps, earth compared to a larch tree high is at 2-3m above the hole. Continue diagonally left and up in a zig-zag on the steps of the earth, among the trees. We'll get to in a wider one, that of the horizontal 1/2 feet wide and several meters long on top of which the rock is 1.5 meters tall we can find an anchor-chemical. As in the above, we observe the insurance in the first leg of the route, overhanging climbing, with a Pendulum, on the left, over the area of every face of the fallen from the first pitch of the route in an Oblique direction.
Retreat route: Standing with his face to the side, follow it to the left of the trail, we regrouped on a larch tree at the end of the course. In about 5 minutes, we arrive at the name plate in memory of the climbers, and see the end of the chain. Go down and hold it for more then a desca?aram and we get to go on The prowl.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Oblic

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Traseul Oblic

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Traseul Oblic

Users who climbed the route


Adi Min - 04.07.2018
- 04.07.2018
Dorin Cristea - 04.07.2018
- 04.07.2018
Dorin Cristea - 05.08.2017, Vara
- 05.08.2017
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Adi Min - 01.01.1900, Vara
3 LC

Users who wish to climb the route


Andrei Vlad
Chereches Cristian

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: Up on the left side of the Vâlcelului rock outcrop on the trail until it takes a horizontal to the left. At the base of the slope, as the one, the one with the Wall of the Vâlcelului Rocky, we've seen a big slab of stone beneath which is a small cave, glancing. On the wall above the trees, we can see a beetle at the bottom is darkened by the infiltration (of the overhanging climbing, with a Pendulum). Down in talveg, and climb up a few feet, through the debris, and then return to the downstream going up diagonally on the steps, earth compared to a larch tree high is at 2-3m above the hole. Continue diagonally left and up in a zig-zag on the steps of the earth, among the trees. We'll get to in a wider one, that of the horizontal 1/2 feet wide and several meters long on top of which the rock is 1.5 meters tall we can find an anchor-chemical. As in the above, we observe the insurance in the first leg of the route, overhanging climbing, with a Pendulum, on the left, over the area of every face of the fallen from the first pitch of the route in an Oblique direction.
Retreat route: Standing with his face to the side, follow it to the left of the trail, we regrouped on a larch tree at the end of the course. In about 5 minutes, we arrive at the name plate in memory of the climbers, and see the end of the chain. Go down and hold it for more then a desca?aram and we get to go on The prowl.

Equipment


Traseul Oblic

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