Innominata (Innominata) 6A
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  • Diaries/Climbs (25)
  • Video (1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 26.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 7-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Quickdraws: 18-20
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Innominata 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: SE
Length: 6 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangFace climbingCrackRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu, Alexandru Pătraşcu, Paul Alboteanu
Date: 1976
Repaired: Cornel Sain, Vali Aldea
Date: 2014


Route description

Pitch 1 - Starts from the big grassy ledge (called Brîna Policandrului). We climb a small step, and then we climb the dihedral. At the end we have a short traverse to the left, then we follow the crack until it ends. After climbing a short face we reach the belay station. 35m, grade 6+(6a).

Pitch 2 - Starts on a dihedral, left oriented, for about 17m. At the end we have a short vertical face, on which we traverse 2m to the left (6+/7- or 6a/6a+). We climb onto the small pillar, continue on the face with some 6+/7- (6a/6a+) moves and reach the belay station. 35m, grade 6+/7- (6a/6a+).

Pitch 3 - We start climbing to the right, towards a big crack. After the first (manufactured) bolt, we can put a cam into the crack. After we reach the peg we start traversing to the left, on the small ledge. We reach a small dihedral (where we find a small nut). At the end of the dihedral it starts the crux of the route, a short face (4m) with bolts, grade 7+/8- (6b+/6c) or A1. After we climb the face we start traversing to the right (passing by an abandoned eagle's nest), and continue the traverse until we reach an overhang (small roof). Here we can put a nut or a cam, because the next fixed protection is over the overhang (7-/6a+ mandatory). After the overhang we traverse to left, and after 3-4m we reach the belay station. 50m, grade 7+/8- (6b+/6c).

Pitch 4 - Starts with a short traverse to left, then enter a small chimney. At the end we climb to left, to an area with loose rock. 20m, grade 6 (5c).

Pitch 5 - Climbing through a small crack, then a chimney (towards an old belay station). We climb the dihedral above us, which is slightly overhanging, grade 6+ (6a). At the end of the dihedral we start a short traverse to left, on a small ledge, towards a smaller dihedral. At the end we found the belay station. 45m, grade 6+ (6a).

Pitch 6 - We traverse 1m to the left, towards a crack-dihedral. We climb a few meters, than start traversing to right, towards a big ledge, which we follow until the end of the route. 16m, grade 6- (5b).
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/06/traseul-innominata-6lc-6a-78-7-a1.html
Titus Gonțea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/08/exordium-ex-abrupto.html
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/10/tr-innominata-6a.html

Access and retreat

Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Mihai Dăițoiu

Pictures


Innominata

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Innominata

User who climbed the route


Alexandru Popa - 22.09.2018, Vara
Vasile Dumitrică - 26.08.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 25.08.2018
Ad Rian - 25.08.2018
Chereches Cristian - 18.08.2018, Vara
Bercean Ioan - 18.08.2018, Vara
Constantinescu Anita - 14.07.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 27.06.2015, Vara
Vlad Grigore - 27.06.2015, Vara
Cristian Popescu - 06.06.2015, Vara
Andrei Holban - 06.06.2015

Users who wish to climb the route


Adrian Scurtu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 30.07.2012

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Equipment


Quickdraws: 18-20
Innominata

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