Fisura Suspendată (Suspended Crack) 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 15.05.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Fisura Suspendată 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: SE
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangCrackGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Aurel Irimia, D. B. Codreanu
Date: 1952
Repaired: Cornel Sain
Date: 18.07.2015


Route description

Pitch 1 (20m, 6-) - Starts from Policandrului Ledge (Brîna Policandrului) on a loose face with grassy steps and big boulders. After 10-12m we arrive at the big rockfall. We climb carefully on the right side, where we will find 4 consecutive bolts (2 meters one another). Any fall on this section will result in falling in the "hole" to our left, the ropes rubbing against the edge which separates the route from the "hole". After the fourth bolt we will be above the rockfall (where we will find a last piton) and we belay at about 30 meters from departure, at 2 bolts, at the beginning of a big grassy ledge which goes ascending to the left. The crux is grade 6+, but it can be done aid climbing.

Pitch 2
(50m, 3) - It is the most ugly pitch from the entire route. You climb an ascending grassy ledge and in the upper part the ledge transforms in some loose grassy steps. Attention is needed for each "grassy" hold. You will find a few bolts on the wall to your right. Belay station at 2 bolts.

Pitch 3 (45m, 6) - Goes with some down climbing to the left, traversing about 2 meters over a small ridge, then climbs a chimney, which transforms in a crack. We climb the crack until we reach a small ledge, then continue on another crack until we reach Brîna Suspendată (Suspended Ledge), a big grassy ledge which connects all routes. We continue 8 meters on the ledge, aiming the big dihedral/chimney in front of us. Here we will find the belay station.

Pitch 4 (50m, 7-) - Starts ascending to the left on a ramp which leads to a big dihedral/chimney. We climb the dihedral, which has a small roof/overhang in the end. The section is 7-, max 7 in free climbing, but can also be easily aid climbed. After passing the overhang we will find an intermediate belay station, but it is best to continue upwards on the crack. After 25 on the crack we will find the belay station (2 bolts). The crack has some loose rock and some grass, so we must pay attention.

Pitch 5 (30m, 6/6+) - Goes upwards from the belay station on a small chimney, which transforms in a crack. Here we have 2 options, on the crack to the right (more difficult) or on the left, towards a plate (which sounds empty). From here we traverse to the right, entering the crack, then continue upwards (the crack has some loose rocks), until we reach some junipers. From here we have some easy climbing towards the final ridge, where we will find the belay station.
Information source
Stire.aspx?ID_Stire=3
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/08/fisura-suspendata-5a-6lc-7_3.html
Titus Gonțea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/08/exordium-ex-abrupto.html
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/

Access and retreat

Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Pictures


Fisura Suspendată

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Diaries



Fisura Suspendată

User who climbed the route


Andrei Holban - 26.08.2017
LauraB - 17.09.2016, Vara
Ad Rian - 30.08.2014, Vara
Andrei Holban - 30.08.2014
LauraB - 30.08.2014
Cristian Popescu - 08.03.2013, Vara
Wilhelm Martini - 19.09.1982, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Stefan
Chereches Cristian

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Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Equipment


Fisura Suspendată

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