Muchia Vulcanului (The Edge Of The Volcano) 4B
0.00/5 (0 votes)




820 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (2)
  • Videos
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 24.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 04.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Cristi Popescu 
Length: 5 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsRidge

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Iosif Barath, Adrian Puşcaş
Date: 1988


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route does not follow the edge of the actual, the departure is to the far left of the wall.

LC1 - Going vertical about 5 or 6m to the first insurance and then deflects upward the left and then climb vertically to a small chimneyule? easy overhangt, but that passes very quickly. After this obstacle the most important orient ourselves upward right up in the pool after about 8m. The belay station is somewhat to the right edge, on a small threshold and is with pitons. The length is 35m and step up to 6+ at the beetle.

LC2 - Continues through the right edge exceeding a small beetle then emerges in the ridge, walking on it up in the pool. This length seems sometimes more friable, or that has boulders that does not inspire confidence so I have traveled with a little attention, not apucînd anything gets in the way. The length is 37m and maximum degree 6. Regrouping is the two pitonse, but I've never asked a friend for safety.

LC3 - Continues upward in excess of a small chimneyule? then a couple of rapids strewn with grass after which another small chimneyule? from which, after about 8m, we're in a belay station chest of drawers, with pitons and a spit. The length is 37m and a maximum of 5 degree-.

LC4 - It crosses right over the edge, prinzînd a crack wide, inclined to the right, filled with grass. They climb on it until it reaches a threshold high under an arch, the place where they regrouped at the pitons, but also to an anchor booster. Regrouping is denoted by the red paint with the R4. The length is 20m and the maximum degree 6+ in the first part of the crack inclined.
ATTENTION! Above R3, somewhere above, on a vertical face with a small fisurica is observed a line of pitons, the line very visible and to which you go bullet, like I did, but that is not the line of our route.

LC5 - get out of the pool vertically beside an archway which is on the left then 5m above traverse 1,5 m right to overcome a small beetle. From here we continue vertical slightly left and then up and down gently right over the small vertical faces, with plugs good, interspersed by rapids strewn with grass. After about 40-45m we're at the end of the length of the where we see to the left, at about 7m, the station booster common routes of Ang Babu, Cumulus, Sherpa and the Edge of the Volcano. We can continue and up reaching a large python of where we're going on a clearing full of bushes and brambles. From here I started to fight literally with briers and bushes for every meter traveled. Regroup in the forest, on a boulder, among the bushes very dense. The length is around 40-45m to the point of the booster and about 55-60m up to the boulder on which I've regrouped myself.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2014/06/muchia-vulcanului-5lc-4b-6.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: At the base of the route is reached climbing from the left side of the last clearings, which precedes the grove at the base of the wall, on a mountain which is located near a boulder of rock on which is located a tourist's mark. If in the clearing turn to the right, towards the middle of the wall, we'll give the other potecu?e which, however, do not lead to our route.
Retreat route: Option 1 - make a series of 4 boosters. The first lead in R4, the second leads a little to the right, on a dihedral, it will about 30m up to a stop of the booster with the chain, the third descends vertically meets first a first station of booster, but I didn't surîs for that below her were only the bushes and the possibility of fouling of the ropes was great so I continued the rappel still about 8m to the right (sitting with his face to the wall) to another station. Here it makes a final booster until a threshold sea and grass under a tree. On the threshold down to the left (towards the valley) catching is a clearing that we get at the beginning of the routes Ang Babu and Sherpa (this variant of the retreat I used it after the route done in the next few days).


Variant 2 - In the forest continues to the left (as you look at the top of the slope), NOT UP. It goes on the curve level or slightly downward, when possible, about 150-200m till it comes out in vîlcelul located at the right side of the wall Zaganului. From here we'll descend on the path marked. The last portion until vîlcel is downward. It is something boschetarit, but with a little attention and sense of orientation can reveal a passageway accessible among the trees and dense shrubs.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Pictures


Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Cristi Popescu

User who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 07.04.2018, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



Access route: At the base of the route is reached climbing from the left side of the last clearings, which precedes the grove at the base of the wall, on a mountain which is located near a boulder of rock on which is located a tourist's mark. If in the clearing turn to the right, towards the middle of the wall, we'll give the other potecu?e which, however, do not lead to our route.
Retreat route: Option 1 - make a series of 4 boosters. The first lead in R4, the second leads a little to the right, on a dihedral, it will about 30m up to a stop of the booster with the chain, the third descends vertically meets first a first station of booster, but I didn't surîs for that below her were only the bushes and the possibility of fouling of the ropes was great so I continued the rappel still about 8m to the right (sitting with his face to the wall) to another station. Here it makes a final booster until a threshold sea and grass under a tree. On the threshold down to the left (towards the valley) catching is a clearing that we get at the beginning of the routes Ang Babu and Sherpa (this variant of the retreat I used it after the route done in the next few days).


Variant 2 - In the forest continues to the left (as you look at the top of the slope), NOT UP. It goes on the curve level or slightly downward, when possible, about 150-200m till it comes out in vîlcelul located at the right side of the wall Zaganului. From here we'll descend on the path marked. The last portion until vîlcel is downward. It is something boschetarit, but with a little attention and sense of orientation can reveal a passageway accessible among the trees and dense shrubs.

Equipment


Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Comments