Fluturele de Piatră (The Wallcreeper) 5B
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (16)
  • Video (2)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 16.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+/8-
Quickdraws: 18-20
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Fluturele de Piatră 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: SE
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 250 m
Climb duration: 4 - 6 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsRoofRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Iosif Gheţie, Alexandru Iacob
Date: 1968
Repaired: Cornel Sain


Route description

Pitch 1 (50m, 3)- From the piton we start climbing ascending slightly to the left, then ascending to the right, then vertically towards the 2 big cracks in front of us. Here we find a belay station with 2 anchors.

Pitch 2
(20m, 6/6+)- We start vertically (following the right crack). The first piton is at 6 meters. We continue towards an overhang with a bolt, 6/6 . Above the overhang we continue on some loose terrain until we reach after 6-7 meters a grassy ledge (with an intermediate belay station, on old pitons). If you have 60 meters ropes it is best to continue with the next pitch.

Pitch 3
(35m, 8-)- We start climbing the dihedral on our left side. After a few pitons we encounter a difficult section (8- or 6c/6c+), but can be done aid climbing. After this section, the climbing is easier. We climb on the right face (having some good holds), until we reach a juniper, then traverse to the left, above it. The belay station consists on 2 bolts. The pitch has a 8- section and 6/6+ sustained on its' entire length.

Pitch 4
(27m, 6/6+)- It goes vertical, above the belay station, over an overhang. After we pass it, the climb is elementary, passing by a tree, and arriving at a big ledge (Suspended Ledge - Brîna Suspendată). Here we will see a vertical chimney (from Eneida route). We turn left on the ledge, and after a few meters arrive at the belay station.

Pitch 5
(32m, 5 )- We start climbing ascending to the left, on a slab, then it becomes more vertical, we exit on an ascending rocky ledge where we find an old belay station (2 old pitons). We continue 5 meters to the modern belay station (on bolts).

Pitch 6
(56m, 6+/7-) - We start climbing to the right, on a chimney and exit on a pinnacle. We climb on an obvious crack, where we have the first bolt. We continue to the second bolt, where we start traversing to the left, entering a new crack which leads right under the roof. Under the roof we start traversing under it to the right. Here we can put cams or nuts (because the last bolt is about 4 meters below). After passing the roof (either free climbing or aid climbing on your own gear) we climb a beautiful crack until we reach a small ledge, and if we traverse 3 meters to the right we come across an old belay station, on pitons. We continue upwards, reach a small loose ledge, then start traversing to the left, aiming a piton with a small rope attached to it, then traverse more to the left, arriving at the belay station (2 bolts).

Pitch 7
(45m, 6/6+)- Starts ascending to the left, on a loose chimney, but not very difficult. Above we see a small cave, in which starts to the right "The Wooden Leg" section (Piciorul de lemn) - old climbing technique, keeping a foot still in the tunnel (like having a wooden leg), and with the other pushing yourself on the outside of the tunnel. We also find this type of climbing in Blue Crack Direct. After a few meters we exit outside the tunnel, then we can choose to enter back or continue on the exterior. After finishing this section we start climbing upwards, until we reach a small pinnacle. After 5 meters we are on The Eagles' Ridge. The pitch is very sinuous, so make sure you have longer quickdraws. Even so it will be harder to pull the ropes on the ridge.
Information source
Stire.aspx?ID_Stire=3
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/07/traseul-fluturele-de-piatra-67lc-5b-8.html
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/


Access and retreat

Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Topo

Topo

Fluturele de Piatră

Pictures


Fluturele de Piatră

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Fluturele de Piatră

User who climbed the route


Andrei Holban - 27.08.2017
Iulia Darie - 07.08.2016
Andrei Holban - 12.07.2015, Vara
LauraB - 12.07.2015, Vara
Cristian Popescu - 07.05.2015, Vara
Andrei Holban - 14.09.2014
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Stefan
Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 13.09.2015

Video - Silvia Murgescu - 18.06.2011

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Equipment


Quickdraws: 18-20
Fluturele de Piatră

Comments




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