Fisura Policandrului (Policandrului Crack) 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Constantinescu Anita la data de 13.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+/8-
Quickdraws: 18-20
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: SE
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 250 m
Climb duration: 5 - 6 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsOverhangRoofCrackGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dorin Grigorescu, Andrei Ghiţescu, Emil Fomino
Date: 24.07.1953
Repaired: George Stroie (Bivuacu), Dănuţ Ocheşel, Cornel Sain, Andrei Holban
Date: 09.09.2017


Route description

Pitch 1: Goes upwards on a grassy terrain, aiming the 2 big cracks we can see from below, until we reach a belay station on a small ledge. Common pitch with The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră).

Pitch 2: We climb to the left on a crack, having a small overhang. We continue until we reach an intermediate belay station, just below of another small overhang. If we have 60 meter ropes (or if we have 50 meter ropes and the belayer simul climbs for 4-5 meters) we continue (we don't recommend at all belaying here). We pass over the overhang (here is a piton with some old rope) and continue on a crack until we reach a ledge. We traverse a few meters to the right (near some junipers) at the 2 bolts (the belay station from The Wallcreeper).

Pitch 3: We return to the left, on the route, continuing upwards on an easy and grassy crack. We exit on a big ledge (Suspended Ledge - Brâna Suspendată) and climb on the left, towards the start of a large crack (more like chimney) where we will find a chemical anchor.

Pitch 4: Upwards on the crack. The crack goes to right, being slightly overhanging. We continue on a vertical face and traverse under the roof to the right. At the roof we have 2 chemical anchors, very close one another, so we can try to free climb safely. Belay station just over the roof in a small cave, at a chemical anchor and some pitons.

Pitch 5: Upwards on the crack, until we reach a big grassy ledge where is the belay station. From here the route becomes easier.

Pitch 6: A chimney and a crack lead us towards the last belay station (3 pitons) - the only one from the route which has no chemical anchor or bolt.

Pitch 7: Upwards on the crack, and after 3-4 meters we pass by a boulder (on the right). We continue on the crack. We will see on the right side some pitons hammered in a loose sandstone rock. We will continue upwards on the crack (handjams and fistjams - the crack needs some medium cams) until we reach a "pipe" hammered in vertically. Here we traverse to the right 4 meters and arrive at the ridge. Belay station at 1 piton on the right side.
Information source
Stire.aspx?ID_Stire=3
Radu Titeica, Niculae Baticu - Pe crestele Carpatilor, Editura Sport Turism, 1984
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/10/tr-policandru-5b.html

Access and retreat

Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Topo

Topo

Fisura Policandrului

Pictures


Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

User who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 04.08.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 24.06.2017, Vara
Jabon - 24.06.2017, Vara
Andrei Holban - 11.07.2015
LauraB - 11.07.2015
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian
Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Equipment


Quickdraws: 18-20
Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

Comments