Fisura Mult Dorită (Most Desired Crack) 6A
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (17)
  • Video (1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 21.08.2018

General characteristics

Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6+/7-
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 8-
Quickdraws: 18-20
Type: Technical rock climbing
 Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: SE
Length: 9 pitches
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 250 m
Climb duration: 5 - 6 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsQuestionable fixed protectionCams/NutsOverhangCrackGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Octavian Brătilă (Bulinel), Nelu Puşcaş, Gabi Papp, Nicolae Filip
Date: 11.09.1957
Story: Link

Route description

Pitch 1 Goes upwards on a grassy terrain, aiming the 2 big cracks we can see from below, until we reach a belay station on a small ledge. Common pitch with The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră).

Pitch 2 We climb to the left on a crack, having a small overhang. We continue until we reach an intermediate belay station, just below of another small overhang. If we have 60 meter ropes (or if we have 50 meter ropes and the belayer simul climbs for 4-5 meters) we continue (we don't recommend at all belaying here). We pass over the overhang (here is a piton with some old rope) and continue on a crack until we reach a ledge. We traverse a few meters to the right (near some junipers) at the 2 bolts (the belay station from The Wallcreeper).

Pitch 3 We return to the left, on the route, continuing upwards on an easy and grassy crack. We exit on a big ledge (Suspended Ledge - Brâna Suspendată) and climb on the left, towards the start of a large crack (more like chimney) where we will find a chemical anchor.

Pitch 4 consists in an easy traverse to the left, about 50-60 meters, until we reach the base of "Fisura Mult Dorită" (we can see the name painted very faded in red). On this pitch we will find a piton, which is the start of Piticot route.

Pitch 5 starts with a difficult move on a compact face, then continues on a vertical dihedral. We traverse right on the grassy ledge. We climb a short face and climb on another grassy ledge. We pass a small overhang and a crack leads us to the belay station under the roof. The pitch has 50 meters.

Pitch 6 We pass a triangular roof on the let side and exit on Brâna Interzisă. We traverse to the right and climb a very grassy section. After a compact face we find the belay station on a ledge.

Pitch 7 We climb a slightly overhanging crack. After a series of cracks we climb a face and we find the belay station under the big overhang.

Pitch 8 A crack leads us to the base of the overhang. From here we start traversing to the right, under the overhang (attention, the pitons on this pitch are very very bad), then and continue climbing upwards the crack. In the upper part there is a big wooden peg. The crack becomes a chimney and the difficulty gradually decreases. After 50 meters we find the belay station on a ledge. This is the hardest pitch (not rotpunkt, but due to the sustained moves and the bad protection).

Pitch 9 Route exits near Aeriană Ledge. It is an easy pitch, but loose and with no pitons or possibility for cams or nuts.


The fifth pitch has another variant (very few know and climb this one) and we don't know the author of it. The original route as it was first climbed is described in the text above.

Pitch 5 - After we climb the vertical dihedral and exit on the grassy ledge, we go to the left (not right where is the normal route). We climb loose grassy steps (with no protection or possibility for cams/nuts) until we reach a dihedral (on which we will find 4-5 pitons). A very beautiful climb, which is no more than 6-/6. We will exit on Brâna Interzisă, at the base of The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) - which has a big white piton at the base. Belay station at juniper roots and branches. Pitch has 60 meters.

Pitch 6 - We traverse to the right Brâna Interzisă (very exposed, a bit loose and no protection), until we intersect back the route, at the base of pitch 7, described above.
Information source
Stire.aspx?ID_Stire=3
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2011/05/29/traseul-fluturele-de-piatra-vulturilor/
camilhasse.ro - http://www.camihesse.ro/mama.php?crt=59
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed. a 2-a, rev. şi adăugită -  Emilian Cristea, N. Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000

Access and retreat

Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Topo

Topo

Fisura Mult Dorită

Pictures

Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Diaries


  • 27.08.2010 Camelia Varsescu, Cornel Zarescu
 Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

User who climbed the route


Chereches Cristian - 12.08.2018, Vara
Bercean Ioan - 12.08.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 30.05.2015, Vara
Vlad Grigore - 30.05.2015, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it

Video - Páll Endre - 10.07.2011

Map

GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold.
We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start.
First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.
From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)
The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)

You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156

Equipment

Quickdraws: 18-20
Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

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