Access and retreat
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GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"  |
Access route: To access the route, from Coştila Refuge we must traverse Coştila Valley. go around Ţancul Mic, until we reach Suzana Route, then we turn left, and start climbing the Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros, but for no more than 200 meters, then we leave the gully and turn left on a small trail. We will down climb 20 meters, then continue on the trail for another 15 minutes. Be careful, some sections are exposed, so watch your foothold. We will arrive on Policandrului Ledge - Brâna Policandrului, and see in front Innominata route, and to the right Narcisiada. 5 meters to the left starts Suspended Crack - Fisura Suspendată, and 100 meters away we will find a peg with ring (you must search for it, is not very obvious) where the routes The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră), Policandrului Crack (Traseul Policandrului), Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) start. First 3 pitches of Policandrului Crack and Most Desired Crack are common, and first grassy pitch is common for all three routes.
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Retreat route: The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Rocky Gully - Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Suspended Crack (Fisura Suspendată), The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră) and Policandrului Crack the retreat is done down climbing Eagles' Ridge (Creasta Vulturilor) towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata. From Most Desired Crack (Fisura Mult Dorită) and The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) the retreat is done via Aeriană Ledge, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for White Valley Wall)The retreat from this wall can be done in multiple ways, depending on the route. From Innominata we make a short abseil (20m) in Vâlcelul Pietros,we will traverse the gully towards the junipers and for 20 minutes we will down climb a trail named Muchia cu Jnepeni (The Ridge with junipers). We traverse to the right in Vâlcelul Pietros and we down climb the trail to Țancul Mic. For routes Fisura Suspendată, Fluturele de Piatră and Fisura Policandrului the retreat is done down climbing Creasta Vulturilor towards first gully and down climb this gully. The gully is splitting up into 2 gullies, we will down climb the right one, and arrive near the exit of Innominata.From Fisura Mult Dorită and Traseul Surplombelor the retreat is done via Brâna Aeriană, Policandrului Gully, La Pândă (same for Peretele Văii Albe)
You can read the entire Innominata (Innominata) 6A route description here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/EnRuta.aspx?ID_Ruta=156 |
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