Route description Pitch 1 Goes upwards on a grassy terrain, aiming the 2 big cracks we can see from below, until we reach a belay station on a small ledge. Common pitch with The Wallcreeper (Fluturele de Piatră).
Pitch 2 We climb to the left on a crack, having a small overhang. We continue until we reach an intermediate belay station, just below of another small overhang. If we have 60 meter ropes (or if we have 50 meter ropes and the belayer simul climbs for 4-5 meters) we continue (we don't recommend at all belaying here). We pass over the overhang (here is a piton with some old rope) and continue on a crack until we reach a ledge. We traverse a few meters to the right (near some junipers) at the 2 bolts (the belay station from The Wallcreeper).
Pitch 3 We return to the left, on the route, continuing upwards on an easy and grassy crack. We exit on a big ledge (Suspended Ledge - Brâna Suspendată) and climb on the left, towards the start of a large crack (more like chimney) where we will find a chemical anchor.
Pitch 4 consists in an easy traverse to the left, about 50-60 meters, until we reach the base of "Fisura Mult Dorită" (we can see the name painted very faded in red). On this pitch we will find a piton, which is the start of Piticot route.
Pitch 5 starts with a difficult move on a compact face, then continues on a vertical dihedral. We traverse right on the grassy ledge. We climb a short face and climb on another grassy ledge. We pass a small overhang and a crack leads us to the belay station under the roof. The pitch has 50 meters.
Pitch 6 We pass a triangular roof on the let side and exit on Brâna Interzisă. We traverse to the right and climb a very grassy section. After a compact face we find the belay station on a ledge.
Pitch 7 We climb a slightly overhanging crack. After a series of cracks we climb a face and we find the belay station under the big overhang.
Pitch 8 A crack leads us to the base of the overhang. From here we start traversing to the right, under the overhang (attention, the pitons on this pitch are very very bad), then and continue climbing upwards the crack. In the upper part there is a big wooden peg. The crack becomes a chimney and the difficulty gradually decreases. After 50 meters we find the belay station on a ledge. This is the hardest pitch (not rotpunkt, but due to the sustained moves and the bad protection).
Pitch 9 Route exits near Aeriană Ledge. It is an easy pitch, but loose and with no pitons or possibility for cams or nuts.
The fifth pitch has another variant (very few know and climb this one) and we don't know the author of it. The original route as it was first climbed is described in the text above.
Pitch 5 - After we climb the vertical dihedral and exit on the grassy ledge, we go to the left (not right where is the normal route). We climb loose grassy steps (with no protection or possibility for cams/nuts) until we reach a dihedral (on which we will find 4-5 pitons). A very beautiful climb, which is no more than 6-/6. We will exit on Brâna Interzisă, at the base of The Overhangs (Traseul Surplombelor) - which has a big white piton at the base. Belay station at juniper roots and branches. Pitch has 60 meters.
Pitch 6 - We traverse to the right Brâna Interzisă (very exposed, a bit loose and no protection), until we intersect back the route, at the base of pitch 7, described above.
Information source Stire.aspx?ID_Stire=3
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2011/05/29/traseul-fluturele-de-piatra-vulturilor/
camilhasse.ro - http://www.camihesse.ro/mama.php?crt=59
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed. a 2-a, rev. şi adăugită - Emilian Cristea, N. Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000
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