Today we celebrate 80 years since Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (Umărul Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 85 years since Brâna Aeriană - Creasta Văii Albe (Văi şi brâne) first ascent, 59 years since Hornul Piticului (Padina lui Călineţ) first ascent, 81 years since Traseul Sudic din Peretele Central (Peretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş) first ascent, 49 years since Traseul Citadela Sfărâmată (Citadela Sfărâmată) first ascent, 1 year since Hornul Izvorului (Văiuga) first ascent

Surplombelor (Trei surplombe) 4B, 7+ (5+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 10.08.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă foto: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: SE
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsOverhang

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Paul Fozocoş, Ion Oancea
Date: 1959

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail slowly, with the 2 length of the heavy, the LC-5 and LC-6 is pretty well secured, with a pretty rock solid (still a little bit in the second half of the LC-6). The original route started with the LC 3, to the input of the Girdle of the Forbidden, the first 2 are just an extension whose author has been lost in the mists of time.

LC 1: we Leave the ordinary to the two-flat of the Crack is Much to be Desired. The flight is strong, one of the passage required by the 7th, that you can't overcome, however, and with the help of a clif. The two-flat is well secured. Get a wider one, that of the grass on the left (the Crack that Long-awaited continues to the right), ensure to continue on to the next face of the cliff, secure it on the right, a ball python, and pooled onto the next platform and out of the grass. 25 grade 7-
LK 2: to Keep the area grassed to crack diedrică right in front of us. It is a well-equipped, with clean and solid, with a hospital at the base. Get out of the crevice to the left through larch trees and small continue on a valley at the top. We provide a the last department of gray, and we're turning to the left, under the juniper trees. Go on a low cape, very dramatic. In front of us, the 5 is Girdle is Prohibited. We'll get to it, and to the right to assemble at a hospital, and what was solid. 40 grade 6

The LC 3 is The easier it is on the left side (grade 5), on the low, then 2 turned to the right, on the front, in order to secure the anchor. If you are going on the right of the pool, its degree is 6+. Leave it on face keep it up, the plot falls in, we're going out on a low threshold is grassy, and secure the anchor to the top. From here, traverse to the left (slightly in the descățărare) or an anchor with a ring of old. Of him up on their faces, secure in a row-a pin-gray and brown-bagging it healthy, and get in the pool. We can join with the next length, with careful attention to the insured person, the 2 the length is more like. 25, grade 5

LK 4: The pools, go on a crack-the easy-off, can be very good at frienduri medium/large. Make sure the anchor at the end of the crack, and go out for a little brâniță. Past a new crack notes (2 hands) and hang out on one side of the cluster slightly crumbly. Continue up slightly left to the 2 pitons driven into the same place. That was the beginning of a traverseu long, on the sides of the pot for about 15 yards before the pool. 30, rank 5+

LK 5: we Go up, we provide a reticulated python (which can be supported by a number of small arcade-like). Get your belly, get on the front end, generally wet, and make sure a pin. Cross over to the left, on the grassy, we have a fisurică a short (3m) and then left it on for a little brână of the stone, reaching for a large plate of sandstone, detached from the wall. Once on the board, we'll get on to it and keep the crack tight. The herbs in the middle of the latter may be made very neat on the front of the compact on the right. The step length is, in the end, by the time we reach the pool, protected by a spit. 30 grade 7-

LK 6: it's a long winding road, it is better to use the long curls. Go to the right of the traverseu, a very good and entertaining, but never trivial. We go out on a small platform, quite crumbly, work our way up to 2-3m on a cracking crumbly, and we are embarking on a traverseu to the left. The passage is of the very air, and, unfortunately, very brittle. My hands got a little ledge of sandstone, and at the foot of sockets, small recessed. Get the crack diedrică, greuță at the bottom. After a 10 fault (look at the last 3 hands of this crack, does not support the fall), we'll be out in a forest clearing, huge, the size of a tennis court. The grouping is at the right hand of the most high zade. 35m, rank an estimate of 7+ or A0,

LK 7: Go to the right, on the grass, aiming for the side of the wall. We'll get the leading edge as on the right (the passage is short the 2nd, but the uninsured). We'll be out in a chimneyuleț (that is, the end of the final length of the Crack is Much to be Desired) provide a pi on the basis of what may once more up and to the right. Keep to the left hand, face down, keep on your left, next to some juniper trees and get up on the ridge. 35m, level 4
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Baticu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Radu Țițeica, N. Baticu, Pe crestele Carpaților
Trasee alpine în Carpați, W Kargel, 1976

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Access from the trail to the second chain to the Girdle of the Air force, the Girdle is Suspended to the Crack is Much to be Desired.

Access to the source is made on the Girdle of the Forbidden, who've been going for 5 minutes on the trail, out of and across the right side through the pines.
Retreat route: The Girdle of the Air force, Vâlcelul Policandrului To Wait until the Refuge, Coștila.



Surplombelor (Trei surplombe)


Sursă foto: Rupi

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Sursă foto: Rupi