Fisura din Peretele Găvanului Mare (Traseul Central) 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 03.05.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Rupi (2019) 
Accommodation: Platou
Orientation: S
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 2100 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


PitonsCams/NutsRoofCrackPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Florin Stan, Ion Mihai, Norbert Hiemesch
Date: 09.09.1957

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The Central route goes up the vertical wall located above the Waist of Co?tilei, in the continuation of the giant escarpment of Gavanului Great (right in the Platter of the Giants).
The first L. C. start from the center Gavanului High, following a thin girdle what is stretches to the left, on the front of the wall, and ends at the base of the opened cracks that go up vertically, over a passage of conglomerates. Further, the route, very difficult, presents a first portion what surplombeaza at startup and a couple of points, whose passing requires a perfect knowledge of the technique escaladelor free. In the final part of the first L. C. we perform a traversal to the right, over a rung of the tiles, at the end of which we regroup.
2 L. C. follows the line pronounced sloping of a cracks open, interrupted in the central area of a block elongated what hangs above the wall and that is riven by two cracks. Climb the next crack to the left, on a map with plugs solid, and ends on a small platform where we can regroup.
The last L. C. (3) presents a hard road, and in the final part dangerous. On the platform of the pool we follow the line of a crack located on the left wall (how to get) and after a few meters it stretches to the right, under a series of ceilings enormous, along which the advance is extremely difficult.
At the end of this portion we find the opportunity to move horizontally to the right, on the front of the wall, using a few sockets powerful recessed in the wall. After approx. 5-6 m, the crossing taking over, the climb continues over a passage vertically, brittle and very exposed, up to the height of a circus, which is extended (to the right, how do we get up), on the face of the mountain and that marks the end of climbing.
Information source
Bucegii Turism Alpinism, N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1961
Bucegii Turism Alpinism, Ed. a 2-a, rev. și adăugită
 - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964; 
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, București, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 24.9" E 25° 29' 27.8"    


Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


GPS: N 45° 25' 24.9" E 25° 29' 27.8"    


Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)