Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Lespezi (Stone) 5A, 6+ (5/5+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 31.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 5/5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

 Lespezi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 10 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 350 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Aurel Irimia, László Karácsonyi, Victor Măciucă
Date: 07.10.1954
First winter ascent: Nicolae Tătulescu, Mircea Săndulescu
Date: 1966


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Go to top of the rock, in a few steps, rocky-to-wash vertically on the right hand the right hand, and the use of a brîna upward, interrupted in the middle of a small chimney for about 3m. At the end of the brînei, and in the lower part of a chimney, a big, very visible, it is the first pool made up of 3 hands nailed up in the same place, and 1 hospital. The length is 50 meters away, and I don't ask technical questions. Insurance - the 2 cams.

LC2 - is Leaving a little to the right, then climb up a ramp diagonally right up until he catches the line of the chimney, to which the climbing does not exceed the level of 5+. It should be taken after the backpack, as it gets uncomfortable îngreunînd on Sunday to advance. The output of the chimney, takes us to the edge of a large clearing filled with grass, and strewn in places with zade. This clearing is called the "Land of Football". At the bottom of it, just a few meters from the exit of the chimney is to combine the two, at a 1 to 1 pin out with the ring. The length is 45 m, and in the course of them, there are 4 or 5 of the insurance business.

LC3 - Go down into a small larch tree and from there up to the upper edge of the Soccer Field by the end of the brîne what you get out of it, to the left. At the end of the brînei there is 1 pin that is standing the picture up, a vest, or a piece of the harness, to the strap. From here you continue to the left on the brîna by the end of it where you can find a pool on the expansion bolts and a chain. The length of this is about 65m, so the second I have to get out of the pool mergîndu it a little bit at a time. If you do not wish to do so, at the middle of the brînei is 1 of the spit, which marks the beginning of the route, the Kiss of the Earth. It can get to a pool.

LC4 - Leaves ascending, left-clicking on a chimneyule? crack a little broken down and then up and down through an area with some steps of the rock and the grass portion of the numinta "The Ruins". A little bit higher to meet the board that forneaza a little dihedral, and, after crossing it, a few yards above and slightly to the right, on a small brîna, it is the grouping consisting of a hospital, and 1 pin with a ring. The length of the measuring 40, and it's about a 7-insurance, of which 2 are expansion bolts.

LC5 - will go right about 8 on the brîna of the grass, then the use of a chimneyule? the above, it is transformed into the famous "Cracking the Hidden" which is in the upper part it has a large python to the ring. In this one you have to cross a little to the right as the slightly diagonal, a part of the grass for a while until they catch up brîna of grass known as the "Great Crossing". It comes in a grouping of the Crack-the-Blue, based on the brîna. From here it goes to the right, until the close of the great dihedral (Dihedron Pupezei) which is based on the pooling of our own. Its length is 50 m, and a pitch of approximately 5-+-the rift that's hidden.

LC6 - Go to the right, overcoming the two-flat Pupezei. Get up on a stage of grass and then use one of the shoulder down to the immediate right of Diedrului Pupezei, and formed up a sort of ramp. The pool can be seen about 10 m up on the edge of the shoulder, and a large python for that I have to go. Continue diagonally right up, what is the use of a chimney, the vertical, with a small beetle on the end of it. After the passage of the surplombei we reach a small ledge where there is a pool in between. Continuing on the second chimney, we get a threshold of comfortable, where you can regroup in the 2nd expansion bolts and chain. Its length is 50 m, and a-grade is estimated at 5+ in the transition surplombei of the first chimney.

LC7 - Continued vertically up a chimney, well secured on the right side to go next, in about 8m, with a braid on the left side. The upper part of the chimney it is blocked off by a huge boulder which is around to the left. Under the rock, we have a hospital, and at the foot of the rock is a big pipe with a ring. The step is not difficult, the most difficult parîndu to me it is the middle of the chimney, on the right of the first-ever, one of them I would estimate 6+. Once out of the dihedral, climbs vertically, slightly right of the stage from the grass up to the plate, where there is a pool in between. This is a traverse right for about 7m and it is the use of a chimney, the crack easy, hard and brittle the upper part of which is restricted by a threshold in vegetation overhangt. This is a traverse left about 3m then climb up diagonally right on the threshold of the grass, where they are belay station. The length is 45 m, and a few of the 6+ at the at the start.

LC8 - Get it on the top of the pool, and in the middle of, in front of the the 2-clean, large, with ring, cross the left prinzînd one of the other chimney, the lower it turns into the crack. Get on it, but there is a small rock where, to the right, there is a brîna a thin grass, which is right on top of the chimney of the leaves and at the base of the tank. We'll go over on this brîna to the right by a meadow of grass on the climb up diagonally right to the pool.

LC9 - just Go to the right, with a desca?arare of, say, 3-4m, and the use of a crack. Get up on it, and up it goes to the right, out onto a plate and continue upwards to the right, on the tufted grass, up to the base of a chimney where there is an anchor with a rope. This is a traverse right for about 6m above the face slightly down is ensured by 2 hands. At the end of the traversal ascends to a niche, where, on a plate, to the oblique, they are bringing together 2 expansion bolts. This is the only one to regroup the uncomfortable part of the route. The length is 40 m, and a maximum of 6 - the crack in the beginning.

LC10 - on Top of the pool there are 2 cracks, the route followed the one on the right. Get up on it, and at the top it is coming out of it and continue to the right to enter a chimney, broad and grass-covered, where we get a pool mid-term review, to clean. Continue up the chimney until at the end of it, coming out on the Crest of the Valley of the White, where it pooled in a 1 to 1 pin P is in yellow. The length is 35m and a maximum of 6 at the crack at the start.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/08/traseul-lespezi-10lc-5a-6_2.html
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/07/traseul-sarutul-pamantului.html
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila he goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20 feet. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. We continue up to the Circus, the 1, up the boulder with a big out from under the wall.
Retreat route: It's coming out on the Crest of the Valley to the White and coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go in the other vâcel that we're going in with the help of a chain. After the chains are down to 50 km, and then take potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

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  • 28.01.2017 Zsolt Torok, Cornel Galescu, Romica Popa

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Users who climbed the route


Adi Min - 28.07.2019, Vara
- 28.07.2019
Jabon - 28.07.2019, Vara
- 28.07.2019
Vasile Dumitrică - 06.07.2019, Vara
- 06.07.2019Urcat până în bivuacul I, apoi prima lungime din Prințesei și continuat pe Lespezi după un rapel de 60m până în marea traversare.
Razvan Hotea - 01.09.2018, Vara
- 01.09.2018Pe lungimea 3 pe brana terenului de fotbal sunt 2 regrupari, daca nu se doreste a se merge concomitent. Regruparea de sub Ruine mi se pare foarte prost amplasata, daca capul de coarda nu este atent poate disloca 2 bolovani mari care vin direct peste secund.
Constantinescu Anita - 05.08.2018
- 05.08.2018iarba climbing, in rest asigurari bune, un pic cam friabil in anumite zone
Andrei - 02.08.2014, Vara
- 02.08.2014Fara ultimele 2 lungimi. A venit furtuna
Cristian Popescu - 08.02.2013, Vara
- 08.02.2013
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Razvan Hotea
Chereches Cristian
Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 28.07.2019

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila he goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20 feet. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. We continue up to the Circus, the 1, up the boulder with a big out from under the wall.
Retreat route: It's coming out on the Crest of the Valley to the White and coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go in the other vâcel that we're going in with the help of a chain. After the chains are down to 50 km, and then take potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

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