Route description
Committing route with beautiful face climbing and some crumbly rock sections.
Fixed Pro: Stainless steel bolted belays. Pitches contain sparse bolts (stainless steel) and pitons (some moving).
Mobile pro: Selection of nuts and a set of cams for cracks from 14mm to 70mm in size.
The route starts from the grassy ledge located immediately above the Football Field. To get there, follow the first few pitches of the Blue Crack - from the boulder at the base take the ledge system and chimney that will lead to the Football Field. The first pitch starts from the belay (two stainless steel bolts) somewhere in the middle of the grassy ledge above.
P1 (42m, VI+)- A relatively mild pitch with a few fixed pins, but multiple possibilities for mobile pro. Go straight up on grass turfs. After clipping a piton hammered in a small grassy crack on the right side, climb a few meters and catch a dihedral and climb to it's end. Continue up on a unprotected face towards the golden piton above. Follow the crack system until the belay station (two stainless steel bolts and a third (from first the first ascent)).
P2 (25m, VI -) another easier pitch and quite short that will lead us in the Great Traverse, close to The Hoopoes Dhiedral (Diedrul Pupezei).
From the pool up right athwart the crack clear ensuring the frienduri. After you make sure the python gold, solid, cross horizontal left, a few meters until the wall falls and continue on the circus, right oblique until the belay station marked by an anchor mechanical, and a python.
LC3 (35m, VII) - Length beautiful, landscaped with pitons, with a traverseu commitment, on the solid rock, with sockets good to the feet. If it feels the need, insurance, fixed can be supplemented by the insurance mobile.
After the python with the ring on top of the pool continue ascending the left, on the plugs good, and get a crack after the corner, where ensure a second piton. After the third piton, going upward left to catch a crack-dihedral. Continue by the two nails from the top (un Peu golden healthy and a piton with ring, just walked half, that I took him out to attempt a solo of 06.10.2018 and which could be successfully replaced by a small walnut). Here we start traverseul right, the plugs blurry hands and good feet. After about 4 feet, get a socket big and keep up on the plugs good up to the crack above, which we will trace, obliquely and to the left, ensuring the nails good, until under the belay station at which we arrive with a lift over a face, the plugs good but blurry. Regroup at the two anchors mechanical stainless steel.
LC4 (40m, VIII(VII/A0) - One of the two lengths more difficult, receives insurance mobile, if need be, on the side of the beginning and the end.
Make sure the python above the pool and continue on the plugs good by a dihedral short, provided with two cams old at the beginning and the end. We rise on a pragule? tiles what does not inspire great confidence then straight up on a shorter front with sockets blurry ensure the two cams are solid and go on a brâni?a of grass where we ensure the first spit of the length. From here we continue ascending the left on the plugs pretty good, sure a piton at the base of the rift-arcade and continue on front left
to spitul visible, then all the way up to the crack at the base of the arch where we provide a new spit. Here follows a nice step for free, on the alveoli, well-protected, in traverseu the right by a Pi gold, solid. The length continues up a crack crumbly and sometimes overhangnta, protected by a nail that moves serious to the core and one solid in the end. The crack has large plugs and ends with a srurplomba where sure a python new, golden, before belay station the two anchors stainless steel, and a third with the link and the ear is crafted.
LC5 (40m, VI+) - A length with a initial hand the spectacular, the rock is clean and solid, and at the end a portion of the orientation on the ground more friable.
Go obliquely left towards the first anchor visible from the pool, then ?erpuim on the plugs good ensuring anchors and pitons solid on the beautiful face above.
After 15-20m of rock climbing perfect out straight up on the doorsteps of the loose or pad of grass, ensuring the old nails until we get a dihedral ending at the end of which cross the left by belay station equipped with an anchor of stainless steel and two cams solid with the ring.
LC6 (43m, VII) A length of the guidance with a fine pitch on the two-flat in the initial part and a final unprotected (on the mobile).
Overcome a series of rapids on the plugs good and we are embarking on a dihedral open and without clear plugs by the carrot with the ring visible. After a lifting interesting catch alveoli good (in one of them we can mount a friend medium to small) and continue straight up where we catch an anchor mechanical marking traverseul right to the dihedron easy what will lead us after you deserve good in belay station (two anchors mechanical stainless steel).
LC7 (40m, VII+/A0) - The hard length of the route.
From the pool continue up the face. Provide two anchors, mechanical, ignore cornierul with the ring in the little arcade crumbly and sure anchor mechanical in his right hand. Continue straight up to the archway above. The beginning of the crossing under the arch is marked by a Peu old. Cross left without insurance fixed, but with multiple possibilities of insurance mobile, until you get a anchor stainless steel from which proceed horizontally to the left two meters to a python hidden under a small arcadu?a. From here we catch a new anchor mechanical, and continue straight up the crack dotted with pitons. At the end of its traverse right to the sockets best, then up front we have a new anchor mechanical stainless steel after which get on the plugs pretty good up in the pool.
LC8 (25m, VII) - short Length, orientation, what we will get in the Created the Valley White.
Follow the line of the pitonslor, left, under the archway. We continue ascending the left, make sure a Pi gold and engage in a traverseu horizontal left, on the plugs pretty good till you catch a crack with a piton old. From here continue straight up the cracks until the belay station marked with an anchor mechanical stainless steel and another with ear crafted, rusty.
Information source Dumitrică Vasile - 2018
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/07/traseul-sarutul-pamantului.html
|