Today we celebrate 58 years since Traseul 23 August (Sectorul A (Arcadei)) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 11 years since Pământul Viu (Şaua Ţuţuiatu) first ascent.  

Cezărică (Cezarica) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 21.10.2014
edited by Lucian Apostu la data de 20.05.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă Cristi Popescu 
Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsDihedralChimneyFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Cezar Vărgulescu, Eugen Diaconescu
Date: 1983
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu
Date: 2000


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: grade 4A and step 6+ on the free route is carried on four lengths of rope. In the first length, on the half way, it crosses a small beetle with a step of 6+, the rest of the length being casual. After the beetle climbs to the left and regroup on a ledge.

LC 2: Go to a small dihedral, and after coming out of it climbs a little to the right towards a tree near which it passes. The grouping is immediately after the tree on a small threshold grass. The length is easy.

LC 3: Run up on a chimneyule? not very difficult, but a little brittle at the entrance. Grade 6+. There are a few boulders on that, it's not right to touch them especially because the seconds are fixed on the line of the chimney. After coming out of it gets skewed a little right and comes out on a brîna. He does not go to the left, even if it is noticed immediately a python.

LC 4: Go to the left towards a plate inclined furrowed a little crack every. Up to the plate inclined the area is a little crumbly and full of ierbotenii which requires little attention. The nails are a little more rare on this stretch, but enough. Immediately after ending the inclined board is made to the right a chimneyule? least inclined formed between the wall of the left and a large boulder. That's about where it says on the map that would be the route, but if you look to the left we can see a series of pitons what follows a crack oblique, a small threshold angle. After about 8 km it ascends vertically and comes out on top next to a tree. The belay station is made of a single anchor chemical mounted vertically on a corner of the rock.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/07/cezarica-alpinism-in-cheile-galbenului.html
Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob - http://www.clubulalpinroman.net/2012/09/17/topo-alpinism-la-pestera-muierilor-cheile-galbenului/
Topo 2 - roclimbing.ro

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 11' 29.8" E 23° 45' 17.5"    
Retreat route: For withdrawal descends about 20m on the north side of ?ancului then crosses a small waist to the left until a small gap. The bottleneck goes on the other side coming down to the right through a sparse forest of birch. It does not descend fixed vertically because it gets to a break of slope located above the entrance in the Cave of Wimps. It goes diagonally left, descending until it enters a forest old and catch a trail well beaten, what takes us 5 minutes to alley's cobbled access to the cave.

Topo

Topo

Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu
Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

Pictures


Sursă Cristi Popescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă Cristi Popescu

User who climbed the route


Dorin Cristea - 11.08.2019, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 17.06.2017
Adrian Scurtu - 21.05.2017
Razvan Hotea

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 11' 29.8" E 23° 45' 17.5"    
Retreat route: For withdrawal descends about 20m on the north side of ?ancului then crosses a small waist to the left until a small gap. The bottleneck goes on the other side coming down to the right through a sparse forest of birch. It does not descend fixed vertically because it gets to a break of slope located above the entrance in the Cave of Wimps. It goes diagonally left, descending until it enters a forest old and catch a trail well beaten, what takes us 5 minutes to alley's cobbled access to the cave.

Equipment


Sursă Cristi Popescu

Comments