Cezărică (Cezărică) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 21.10.2014
edited by Lucian Apostu la data de 20.05.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă Cristi Popescu 
Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsDihedralChimneyFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Cezar Vărgulescu, Eugen Diaconescu
Date: 1983
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu
Date: 2000

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: grade 4A and step 6+ on the free route is carried on four lengths of rope. In the first length, on the half way, it crosses a small beetle with a step of 6+, the rest of the length being casual. After the beetle climbs to the left and regroup on a ledge.

LC 2: Go to a small dihedral, and after coming out of it climbs a little to the right towards a tree near which it passes. The grouping is immediately after the tree on a small threshold grass. The length is easy.

LC 3: Run up on a chimneyuleț not very difficult, but a little brittle at the entrance. Grade 6+. There are a few boulders on that, it's not right to touch them especially because the seconds are fixed on the line of the chimney. After coming out of it gets skewed a little right and comes out on a brînă. He does not go to the left, even if it is noticed immediately a python.

LC 4: Go to the left towards a plate inclined furrowed a little crack every. Up to the plate inclined the area is a little crumbly and full of ierbotenii which requires little attention. The nails are a little more rare on this stretch, but enough. Immediately after ending the inclined board is made to the right a chimneyuleț least inclined formed between the wall of the left and a large boulder. That's about where it says on the map that would be the route, but if you look to the left we can see a series of pitons what follows a crack oblique, a small threshold angle. After about 8 km it ascends vertically and comes out on top next to a tree. The belay station is made of a single anchor chemical mounted vertically on a corner of the rock.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/07/cezarica-alpinism-in-cheile-galbenului.html
Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob - http://www.clubulalpinroman.net/2012/09/17/topo-alpinism-la-pestera-muierilor-cheile-galbenului/
Topo 2 - roclimbing.ro

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: For withdrawal descends about 20m on the north side of țancului then crosses a small waist to the left until a small gap. The bottleneck goes on the other side coming down to the right through a sparse forest of birch. It does not descend fixed vertically because it gets to a break of slope located above the entrance in the Cave of Wimps. It goes diagonally left, descending until it enters a forest old and catch a trail well beaten, what takes us 5 minutes to alley's cobbled access to the cave.



Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu
Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu


Sursă Cristi Popescu

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Sursă Cristi Popescu