Today we celebrate Iosif Gheţie, who reached the beautiful age of 77 years. Happy birthday!.

Prinţesei 6A, 6b+/6c
0.00/5 (0 votes)




2297 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (4)
  • Diaries/Climbs (2)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 23.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 5c
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+/6c
Type: Classic route

 Prinţesei 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 350 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsDihedralCrackGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Narcis, Creaţia Braşov
Date: 1982


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail's Creation (the Princess) - 6A, LIVE+



The interesting part of the route, there are two lengths, with the appearance of a dihedral with a crack of the wide beginning of the girdle of the Bivuacului the Crack of the Blue, and ends up in the traverseul leaving the Camp, II.
The insurance fixed the missing does not exist, but they are spaced out (the track was reconditioned, getting the two anchors of the mechanical on each of the long, and the one in the pool). The get-up isn't necessarily hard, but it's quite uncomfortable, physically and mentally (the difficulties of including them in overcoming some of the cracks wider, moves).



The equipment used


12 loops (6, 60 cm),and the

a anou to 120 cm in case of stone embedded in the LC-1,

a set of frienduri (size equivalent to a BD C4 #.4 to #6)

a set of nuts, of which I have only used it for two sizes higher in the LC2.
LC1 - 50. It starts on easy terrain through the boundaries of the blocks embedded in the one or two hands of the old, but what I'm getting, and frienduri medium-low. It then goes on a dihedral, fell with a crack wide, and protected by the two hands of the old, beaten, only half of it. In this section, I found the pulley of the washing machine, which I've heard the stories. As the two-flat is starting to become vertical, and then a little bit on the back, the crack is becoming more and more widespread. After the passage of the portions (large, long, and a little bit on the back, which is protected at the base by an anchor mechanical for us) the terrain becomes easier. Overcome, the old grouping of the tiles in the right of the anchor (mechanical-new front, from the left). After the lift more difficult than a large rock, we continue on the crack for easy on and off, on the ground friable and non-friable, on the top of the plate, which will bring together, in bringing together the common route of the Eternal City.


LC2 - 15m. Quick and easy to pitch, very hard and brittle - the cross descending to the anchor, the mechanical at the bottom of the second dihedral.


LC3 - 40. You don't have insurance, fixed in the top 10, but it is a solid, it is assured of the mobile. Overhanging climbing for the top go around to the front of the left, and then follow the crack sound up to a platform where you can find early insurance, fixed length. Go on a tear pretty out of hand, we can do what the old and get a belly out of the breach (provided with the anchor bolt, mechanical). The crack is narrow and we drive on to the pitch series, with the sockets at the tufts of grass in the pool.


The retreat

Following on from the Blue Santa's up to the Crest of the Valley of the White to help.
Information source
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/07/traseul-sarutul-pamantului.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila he goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20m. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. We continue up to the Circus, the 1, up the boulder with a big out from under the wall.
Retreat route: It's coming out on the Crest of the Valley to the White and coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go in the other vâcel that we're going in with the help of a chain. After the chains are down 50, and then it keeps potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

Topo

Topo

Prinţesei

Pictures


Prinţesei

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Prinţesei

Users who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 25.07.2019, Vara
- 25.07.2019

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila he goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20m. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. We continue up to the Circus, the 1, up the boulder with a big out from under the wall.
Retreat route: It's coming out on the Crest of the Valley to the White and coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go in the other vâcel that we're going in with the help of a chain. After the chains are down 50, and then it keeps potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

Equipment


Prinţesei

Comments