Hornul Vânturilor (The Chimney Winds) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 21.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 05.07.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 6-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă Cristi Popescu 
Length: 3 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Andrei Gîţă, Viorel Borteş, Dan Rădulescu
Date: 1980


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: Start on a crack wide what takes us to the base of the chimney a big black and visible even from the road. This is, basically, a crack wide about 1 m deep, 15 m high and 10 m.
They climb among the walls close about 10 m with little attention because the soil is sandy and full of leaves, and on the whole this climb we don't have any insurance. At the end of 10 m both on the right and on the left the walls are pockmarked with two other cracks wide at the ends of which run across the rays of light. Here is also the first insurance of the chimney and here start and escalate itself. They climb on the left side about 8-10 m till under the ceiling and then make a crossing under the ceiling toward the exit. Here we have a insurance to the departure of the crossing and another at the exit from it, its length being not any other. The crossing is not very difficult being sufficient sockets to the legs, and with arms we can lean from the walls of the chimney. The exit of the chimney put up some problems if they climb with the backpack in the back. Immediately after the exit ascends vertically to the right way out (front left as we look at the chimney outside). Regrouping is on a threshold comfortably found out after a bush of roses.
LC 2: it'S short and ugly. Departs vertically on an area of crumbly then catch it to the left a chimney, small (pass through the two boulders and under a bush of mace?i prickly). Then make a left on a small brîna located between the wall and a small corner of the rock, where they regroup.LC 3: Is the hardest. Start with an ascent of a few yards until a crack is horizontal where it crosses to the right a few yards. This step is rated 7+. On crack horizontal can mount and friend. Continue up a crack wide followed by a easy traversing to the right after that follows a portion of the final vertical. The whole stretch of it after the crossing of the base is rated 6+ and it's beautiful. Shortly before the ridge, on a plate inclined, is belay station. They can regroup and in the ridge to a birch.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/07/hornul-vinturilor-catarare-la-pestera.html
Cornel Zărescu, Cristi Iacob - http://www.clubulalpinroman.net/2012/09/17/topo-alpinism-la-pestera-muierilor-cheile-galbenului/
Topo 2 - roclimbing.ro

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: For withdrawal goes from the tree to the left catching the girdle of the which leads to a bottleneck. From the gap we get on the other side coming down to the right through a sparse forest of birch. It does not descend fixed vertically because it gets to a break of slope located above the entrance in the Cave of Wimps. It goes diagonally left, descending until it enters a forest old and catch a trail well beaten, what takes us 5 minutes to alley's cobbled access to the cave.

Topo

Topo

Sursă Cristi Popescu
Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

Pictures


Sursă Cristi Popescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursă Cristi Popescu

User who climbed the route


Adrian Mihai - 14.04.2018, Vara
Alex Cristescu - 14.04.2018, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,51916252312118E+15°0.0' E 2,37548815950317E+16°0.0'    
Retreat route: For withdrawal goes from the tree to the left catching the girdle of the which leads to a bottleneck. From the gap we get on the other side coming down to the right through a sparse forest of birch. It does not descend fixed vertically because it gets to a break of slope located above the entrance in the Cave of Wimps. It goes diagonally left, descending until it enters a forest old and catch a trail well beaten, what takes us 5 minutes to alley's cobbled access to the cave.

Equipment


Sursă Cristi Popescu

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