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Pintenul Dorului (Spur Of Longing) 3B
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added by Ad Min la data de 21.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 03.07.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu 
Length: 2 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsChemical anchorsCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Doru Cojocaru
Date: 1980


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

It has two lengths, but, due to path low of the second of these, it is customary to make a single length.

LC1 - follow the clear line of a crack slightly inclined to the left with a first insurance on a 3 km. From here you can climb a 2 m on a minidiedru then it deviates a little left over a small block triangular in order to continue on an obvious fissure. Here is a step more difficult of the route due to the fact that the walls are slightly more deprived of the sockets, and the next insurance is at a 4 km distance. The step is about 6+, and what, down, find it hard to spot and with a good positioning move quite easily. Continue on the crack about 10m up the path approaching a dihedral coming from the right. Here there are insurance both in the right, on the dihedral, and on the left on the crack. To cross to the left on a plate, slightly inclined, then up the crack which cuts through the face down for about 4 m then, after other a 6 m vertical, all on the crack, get it on a threshold with a cave on the right where it is and regroup. Length, about 35m.

LC2 - go from the pool to a chimney through which it can pass beyond the spur to a vîlcel on which you make the withdrawal. Before entering in the chimney climbs in ?prai? then, after about 2 km is committed on the face of the right (of the spur), climb a vertical face full of alveoli and large concretions of corrosion, specific to the limestone, which offers the prize generous. It only ensures the pitons, the line on the left, with the chemical anchors, being from a different route (Marr). On this face are climbs of about 12 m up to two chemical anchors, but does not regroup (regrouping uncomfortable), but it crosses the left and it reaches a threshold comfortable with two chemical anchors on the front and some pitons nailed vertically on top of ?ancului, hands tied with a cord of iron. This length is about 15 m of rope deployed and a grade of approximately 6-.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/10/pintenul-dorului-3a-6-6ao-2lc_25.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The entry in the trail is a few yards to the right of the Crack of the Spur and is marked with red paint. Both lengths are very well secured with pitons and anchors chemical, and the rock is of a very good quality, being very compact
Retreat route: On the threshold to make a booster short of a 15-20m on vîlcelul from behind the spur, get on it before in the path. The rappel is done on line route "Easter 7-" so that, if someone is in route, will need some attention. Once down take a look at another route, Ruxi 3B 7-, but which I will describe in the next post.

Topo

Topo

Sursă Cristi Popescu
Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

Pictures


Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

User who climbed the route


Adrian Mihai - 18.08.2018, Vara
Alex Cristescu - 18.08.2018, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 18.06.2017

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,51916252312118E+15°0.0' E 2,37548815950317E+16°0.0'    
Access route: The entry in the trail is a few yards to the right of the Crack of the Spur and is marked with red paint. Both lengths are very well secured with pitons and anchors chemical, and the rock is of a very good quality, being very compact
Retreat route: On the threshold to make a booster short of a 15-20m on vîlcelul from behind the spur, get on it before in the path. The rappel is done on line route "Easter 7-" so that, if someone is in route, will need some attention. Once down take a look at another route, Ruxi 3B 7-, but which I will describe in the next post.

Equipment


Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

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