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Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea (Blue Crack Cristea variant) 6A
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 23.09.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6+/7-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 12 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 350 m
Climb duration: 8 - 9 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsTraverseCrackChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emilian Cristea, Aurel Irimia, Radu Constantin
Date: 04-06.08.1952
First winter ascent: Petre Santo, Mircea Săndulescu
Date: 31.12.1973
First winter solo ascent: Ionel Ene
Date: 21.12.1991
First free solo ascent: Titus Gonţea
Date: 2000


Route description

Pitch 1 (50 m, 3) - We start above the big boulder which lies at the bottom of the wall. We start climbing upwards and slightly to the right. We climb towards a big chimney which we see from the bottom of the wall. The belay station is beneath it.

Pitch 2
(45 m, 5+) - Go to the right on the ledge and then up into the chimney. We arrive at the Football Field, a big grassy field. The belay station is at it's base.

Pitch 3
(65 m, 1+) - It traverses the Football Field, then goes to the left on a narrow grassy ledge. The belay station is at the end of the ledge. The pitch is about 65 meters, so the second person must simul-climb for a few meters.

Pitch 4
(40 m, 4) - We climb a a loose chimney, then a few loose grassy and rocky steps. The section is called The Ruins. On a little ledge we will find the belay station.

Pitch 5
(30 m, 5+) - We traverse to the right 8 meters on the grassy ledge, arriving at the base of Hidden Crack. Many climbers lost their way here. There is another crack, just above the belay station, where we can see pegs, but that is NOT the way. We climb diagonally to the right and exit into a big grassy ledge, named The Big Traverse.

Pitch 6
(30 m, 5) - The Big Traverse. We start traversing to the left on a grassy ledge, and after a few meters we start climbing down about 2 meters, then we traverse a very loose section. After this we continue on a grassy ledge until we reach the belay station, consisting in 4 pitons. On the traverse we have about 5 pitons.

Pitch 7
(38 m, 6) - We climb ascending to the left for about 15-20 meters, until we arrive at a belay station with bolts. Then we change direction to the right on a crack, grade 5 , which takes us under a big crack from Memorial Emilian Cristea. We start traversing to the right, aiming the big grassy ledge on the right, place named First Bivouac.

Pitch 8
(30 m, 6+) - We start climbing upwards slightly left on a crack, than a slab, then continue towards a small cave. We climb over an overhang, to the right of the cave. We then arrive at a chimney, named The Chimney under the "Tendor". The chimney is always wet and slimy. There are a few pegs on the way, and we can also put our own cams. The belay station is very uncomfortable, space for max 2 persons.

Pitch 9
(35 m, 7-) - This pitch is called "The Tendor" (historically manufactured fixed gear, which were placed in the wide cracks by unscrewing). We go upwards from the belay station, for 6 meters, until we reach the end of the chimney, then traverse to the right for 2-3 meters. We pass over an overhang, then enter a wide crack. We climb the crack until we reach a small ledge which goes to the right. We will se on it a belay station (2 anchors). We will belay here if we will climb the Direct variant, if not we will continue to left to the Second Bivouac, where we will find Emilian Cristea's urn with his ash.

Pitch 10 (35 m, 6-) - From the Second Bivouac we will traverse to the right towards a crack. Beware, there are more cracks in this area, the route is on the last one. It is easy climbing but harder with orientation.

Pitch 11 (30 m, 6) - Next pitch goes up, climbing some cracks, and just before the belay station there is a small chimney, with a pipe/tube (old manufactured fixed gear) at the base. The section is slightly overhanging. Belay station is on a grassy ledge.

Pitch 12 (40 m, 7-) - Next pitch is called The face with flies. It start up with a vertical crack, until we reach the wires (climbers which made the first ascent climbed this pitch top roped, and tied together the pegs with a wire). From this point we traverse to to the right, then up, on a crack which leads to a vertical face, having 3 crack left oriented. In this place the pegs more are spaced (3-4 meters), mandatory grade 6+/7-. We will climb a chimney for 10-12 meters, and exit on a ledge, where we find the belay station.

Pitch 13 (25 m, 4+) - Last pitch is easy, it traverses a ridge to the left, than a crack, a short chimney and we exit
in White Valley Ridge.

The route can be climbed in a variable number of pitches, depending on how we choose to climb them, especially in the first part of the route.
Information source
fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/09/fisura-albastra-directa-1415lc-6b-8-6a1.html
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/07/traseul-sarutul-pamantului.html

Access and retreat

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea

Pictures


Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea

User who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 17.08.2018
Oana Cindea - 17.08.2018
LauraB - 11.09.2016, Vara
manoliu - 13.06.2010, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
Oana Cindea

Users who wish to climb the route


Razvan Hotea
Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 17.09.2011

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă.

Equipment


Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea

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