Route description Pitch 1 (50 m, 3) - We start above the big boulder which lies at the bottom of the wall. We start climbing upwards and slightly to the right. We climb towards a big chimney which we see from the bottom of the wall. The belay station is beneath it.
Pitch 2 (45 m, 5+) - Go to the right on the ledge and then up into the chimney. We arrive at the Football Field, a big grassy field. The belay station is at it's base.
Pitch 3 (65 m, 1+) - It traverses the Football Field, then goes to the left on a narrow grassy ledge. The belay station is at the end of the ledge. The pitch is about 65 meters, so the second person must simul-climb for a few meters.
Pitch 4 (40 m, 4) - We climb a a loose chimney, then a few loose grassy and rocky steps. The section is called The Ruins. On a little ledge we will find the belay station.
Pitch 5 (30 m, 5+) - We traverse to the right 8 meters on the grassy ledge, arriving at the base of Hidden Crack. Many climbers lost their way here. There is another crack, just above the belay station, where we can see pegs, but that is NOT the way. We climb diagonally to the right and exit into a big grassy ledge, named The Big Traverse.
Pitch 6 (30 m, 5) - The Big Traverse. We start traversing to the left on a grassy ledge, and after a few meters we start climbing down about 2 meters, then we traverse a very loose section. After this we continue on a grassy ledge until we reach the belay station, consisting in 4 pitons. On the traverse we have about 5 pitons.
Pitch 7 (38 m, 6) - We climb ascending to the left for about 15-20 meters, until we arrive at a belay station with bolts. Then we change direction to the right on a crack, grade 5 , which takes us under a big crack from Memorial Emilian Cristea. We start traversing to the right, aiming the big grassy ledge on the right, place named First Bivouac.
Pitch 8 (30 m, 6+) - We start climbing upwards slightly left on a crack, than a slab, then continue towards a small cave. We climb over an overhang, to the right of the cave. We then arrive at a chimney, named The Chimney under the "Tendor". The chimney is always wet and slimy. There are a few pegs on the way, and we can also put our own cams. The belay station is very uncomfortable, space for max 2 persons.
Pitch 9 (35 m, 7-) - This pitch is called "The Tendor" (historically manufactured fixed gear, which were placed in the wide cracks by unscrewing). We go upwards from the belay station, for 6 meters, until we reach the end of the chimney, then traverse to the right for 2-3 meters. We pass over an overhang, then enter a wide crack. We climb the crack until we reach a small ledge which goes to the right. We will se on it a belay station (2 anchors). We will belay here if we will climb the Direct variant, if not we will continue to left to the Second Bivouac, where we will find Emilian Cristea's urn with his ash.
Pitch 10 (35 m, 6-) - From the Second Bivouac we will traverse to the right towards a crack. Beware, there are more cracks in this area, the route is on the last one. It is easy climbing but harder with orientation.
Pitch 11 (30 m, 6) - Next pitch goes up, climbing some cracks, and just before the belay station there is a small chimney, with a pipe/tube (old manufactured fixed gear) at the base. The section is slightly overhanging. Belay station is on a grassy ledge.
Pitch 12 (40 m, 7-) - Next pitch is called The face with flies. It start up with a vertical crack, until we reach the wires (climbers which made the first ascent climbed this pitch top roped, and tied together the pegs with a wire). From this point we traverse to to the right, then up, on a crack which leads to a vertical face, having 3 crack left oriented. In this place the pegs more are spaced (3-4 meters), mandatory grade 6+/7-. We will climb a chimney for 10-12 meters, and exit on a ledge, where we find the belay station.
Pitch 13 (25 m, 4+) - Last pitch is easy, it traverses a ridge to the left, than a crack, a short chimney and we exit in White Valley Ridge.
The route can be climbed in a variable number of pitches, depending on how we choose to climb them, especially in the first part of the route.
Information source fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/09/fisura-albastra-directa-1415lc-6b-8-6a1.html
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/07/traseul-sarutul-pamantului.html
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