Fisura Albastră Directă (Blue Crack Direct) 6B
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (19)
  • Video (4)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 21.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6B
Mandatory grade: 7-
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 8+
Quickdraws: 20
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Cristi Popescu 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 14 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 350 m
Climb duration: 8 - 10 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsRoofTraverseCrackChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Norbert Hiemesch, Roland Welkens
Date: 1956
Repaired: Adi Cernea, Titus Gonţea
Date: 02.06.2002
First rotpunkt ascent: Dan Borcea
First winter ascent: Robert Domneșteanu, Igor Popovici
Date: 01.01.1963
First winter solo ascent: Marius Gane
Date: 20.12.1991


Route description

Pitch 1 (50 m, 3) - We start above the big boulder which lies at the bottom of the wall. We start climbing upwards and slightly to the right. We climb towards a big chimney which we see from the bottom of the wall. The belay station is beneath it.

Pitch 2
(45 m, 5+) - Go to the right on the ledge and then up into the chimney. We arrive at the Football Field, a big grassy field. The belay station is at it's base.

Pitch 3
(65 m, 1+) - It traverses the Football Field, then goes to the left on a narrow grassy ledge. The belay station is at the end of the ledge. The pitch is about 65 meters, so the second person must simul-climb for a few meters.

Pitch 4
(40 m, 4) - We climb a a loose chimney, then a few loose grassy and rocky steps. The section is called The Ruins. On a little ledge we will find the belay station.

Pitch 5
(30 m, 5+) - We traverse to the right 8 meters on the grassy ledge, arriving at the base of Hidden Crack. Many climbers lost their way here. There is another crack, just above the belay station, where we can see pegs, but that is NOT the way. We climb diagonally to the right and exit into a big grassy ledge, named The Big Traverse.

Pitch 6
(30 m, 5) - The Big Traverse. We start traversing to the left on a grassy ledge, and after a few meters we start climbing down about 2 meters, then we traverse a very loose section. After this we continue on a grassy ledge until we reach the belay station, consisting in 4 pitons. On the traverse we have about 5 pitons.

Pitch 7
(38 m, 6) - We climb ascending to the left for about 15-20 meters, until we arrive at a belay station with bolts. Then we change direction to the right on a crack, grade 5 , which takes us under a big crack from Memorial Emilian Cristea. We start traversing to the right, aiming the big grassy ledge on the right, place named First Bivouac.

Pitch 8
(30 m, 6+) - We start climbing upwards slightly left on a crack, than a slab, then continue towards a small cave. We climb over an overhang, to the right of the cave. We then arrive at a chimney, named The Chimney under the "Tendor". The chimney is always wet and slimy. There are a few pegs on the way, and we can also put our own cams. The belay station is very uncomfortable, space for max 2 persons.

Pitch 9
(35 m, 7-) - This pitch is called "The Tendor" (historically manufactured fixed gear, which were placed in the wide cracks by unscrewing). We go upwards from the belay station, for 6 meters, until we reach the end of the chimney, then traverse to the right for 2-3 meters. We pass over an overhang, then enter a wide crack. We climb the crack until we reach a small ledge which goes to the right. We will se on it a belay station (2 anchors). If we want a short break, we can stay at the Second Bivouac, where we will find Emilian Cristea's urn with his ash.

Pitch 10
(28 m, 7-) - If we climbed to the Second Bivouac, we will traverse back to the belay station. It is the only pitch which is not following the natural line of the crack, going 5 meters to the right. From the belay station we climb up a vertical face, continuing with a dihedral and a crack, with a small overhang at its base. We continue the climb towards some grassy steps, then orientating to the left, to an overhanging section (grade 7-). We then continue horizontally to the left, than on a chimney, exiting on a big slab on the left, named The butcher's log. The belay station is on the slab.

Pitch 11
(37 m, 6+) - We start climbing towards the right, starting with some face climbing. After 8 meters we enter a tight chimney, where we must climb without a backpack on our back (we can hang it from our harness). After exiting the chimney we exit on some slabs and arriving at Third Bivouac. Here we find 2 pegs hammered into sandstone. 3 meters to the left there is a chemical anchor, with which we can make a belay station. If we have another 5-6 quickdraws, we can continue with the next pitch.

Pitch 12
(16 m, 7-/7) - We start climbing to the left, to the chemical anchor, then towards the Crack with bats. The belay station is under The Big Roof.

Pitch 13
(20 m, 8+ / 6+, A1) - The Big Roof. We start climb below the roof, having some old pitons and some new bolts as protection. Free climbing grade is 8 , but can be done easily with A1. We continue until the last piece of protection, then using good holds, we get over the roof (grade 6+). 3-4 meters above we reach a ledge where is the belay station (an anchor and a few old pegs).

Pitch 14
(32 m, 6+/7-) - An easy pitch, with a harder start (7-). We climb up a crack. The crack has (had) many pegs, but all are bad. We climb carefully until we reach a ledge, climb on it, traverse to the left, on some loose rock. We climb a small dihedral, very grassy in its first part. In the upper part the dihedral becomes a large crack, climbing it on the left wing. We finally arrive at the Fourth Bivouac, a grassy ledge with a big rock (a slab) on its right.

Pitch 15
(37 m, 7-/7) - We go back to the right, climbing the slab on its right side. After passing an anchor, start a face climb, with some bad pitons. We will reach a sandstone slab. We will start traversing to the right, down climb 1.5 meters and enter the sandstone tunnel.
This is called The Wooden Leg (Piciorul de lemn) - old climbing technique, keeping a foot still in the tunnel (like having a wooden leg), and with the other pushing yourself on the outside of the tunnel. The tunnel is horizontally and you must keep crawling yourself for 3-4 meters. You reach a big piton at the end (it is recommended either to use long slings all the pitch, or make a belay station here). After 5-7 meters we exit in White Valley Ridge.

The route can be climbed in a variable number of pitches, depending on how we choose to climb them, especially in the first part of the route.
Information source
Bucegii Turism Alpinism, Ed. a 2-a, rev. și adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964; 
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, București, 2000
Cristian Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/09/fisura-albastra-directa-1415lc-6b-8-6a1.html (15 LC)
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2011/09/07/fisura-albastra-var-directa/ (12 LC)
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/07/traseul-sarutul-pamantului.html
Komm mit 1988

Access and retreat

Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall
Access duration: 2 -3h
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.
Retreat duration: 1h30min +

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Pictures


Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Cristi Popescu

User who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 19.08.2018
Chereches Cristian - 15.08.2018, Vara
Bercean Ioan - 15.08.2018, Vara
Cristian Popescu - 19.09.2015, Vara
Andrei Holban - 19.09.2015
Eugen Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara
Eugen Popescu

Users who wish to climb the route


Constantinescu Anita
Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Andrei Zamfir - 22.03.2015

Video - Winter Alps Trilogy 2013 - 25.01.2013

Video - George Stroie - 30.10.2012

Video - Páll Endre - 06.08.2012

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Equipment


Quickdraws: 20
Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Comments




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