Memorial Emilian Cristea 7A, 9+ (7, A1)
3,50/5 (2 votes)




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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 06.10.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 7A
Mandatory grade: 7
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 9+
Quickdraws: Twenty
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: thewheelchairclimbingroute.ro, Dana Bazacliu 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 15 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 400 m
Climb duration: 12 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangRoofFantasticPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Florin Ularu, Nicolae Cojan, Ladislau Hatházi
Date: 1985
Repaired: Florin Ularu, Arpad Adam
First rotpunkt ascent: Cristi Simion
Date: 21.09.2020
Story: Link
Second ascent (First repeat): Costică Costia, Michael Buchholtzer, Mihai Popa
Date: 08.1986
First winter ascent: Ion Iulică Pătraşcu, Marius Gane
Date: 08-10.01.1990
First solo ascent: Cornel Sain
Date: 04-05.04.1992
Story: Link


Route description

Pitch 1 - From the boulder, go straight up, then turn left on a grassy crack. The beginning is identical with Speranţei, but at some point, after about 20m, when we reach some horizontal cracks, we turn right. You can easily see the pitons. Traverse a face with pockets and climb to a large ledge, where we have the belay station at 4 pitons (the only belay station without bolts). On the right, on the ledge, there is a bolt from Căruţul cu rotile. The pitch is about 40m, grade 6.

Pitch 2 - From the belay station we go straight up, on a loose crack. At 4m above the first piton appears. From here we must turn to the right, although on the left you can see a line of pitons, which are going to Speranţei. We go to the right, climb a few meters and then traverse to the right, follow the pitons which go under the belay station from Speranţei. We continue to the right, climbing a few faces and cracks and arriving at the belay station on a ledge.

Pitch 3 - We traverse to the right, towards the grass, then we climb on the face, above the grass, we go up on the loose ledges and we return to the left, somehow in the direction of the previous belay station. The pitch is short and easy.

Pitch 4 - Upwards, on a crack that has towards the end a golden piton that moves a little, then to the left, on another crack, in a rather difficult traverse. From here, up on grassy small ledges, to a wide ledge, where we stop at 2 bolts. To the left, a few meters away, is the belay station of the Ultimatum.

Pitch 5 - Up on a grassy dihedral, towards an obvious roof. We reach the roof and traverse under it, without fixed gear, with some sandstone handholds and not very good footholds. It's not hard, but it's exposed. The belay station is at the end of the roof.

Pitch 6 - Upwards, towards a visible old bolt, after the roof, then to the left, avoiding the wide crack above, we go on a grass ledge, until we arrive at a good crack for laybacking. We climb to "Amvon" on the ledges and cracks, then traverse to the right, to the "Memorial Wing" (Aripa din Memorial). We stop at a belay station with 3 bolts or we can continue to the new belay station just below the Wing, after a few meters common with the Blue Crack, near Bivouac 1 (this belay has 4 old pitons, no bolts).

Pitch 7 - One of the best - The wing. It starts a little awkward, on the back, but with very good holds. A few meters from the start there is an old piton doubled by a bolt - the only fixed gear on this wide crack. We climb in layback technique (from place to place on the right side appear some good pockets). The section is not very difficult, it no more than grade 6, but the fact that it has no fixed gear makes it very interesting for leading. At the top of the Wing is a good ledge, and a little higher we reach a comfortable belay station.

Pitch 8 - From here begins the artificial part, the physical part of the Memorial. The pitons are visible, from time to time we have a bolt. We start up, on a ledge, then climb a crack with plenty of pitons. At one point, we traverse to the left, we go up again free climbing, one face with pockets, until we reach 2 pitons (one beaten from upside down, another with an old cord, very thin), from there we traverse again, to the left, with a good handholds. Belay station at 2 bolts on a ledge. A single ladder with Fifi is enough for the entire pitch. There are sections where aid climbing is mandatory.

Pitch 9 - Up, with 3 very close new bolts, which double the old ones. Next a compact face with a very thin piton. We climb up 2m with pocket handholds and traverse to the right, towards an edge, where there is a hidden piton. Comfortable belay station on a large boulder, under a wide crack.

Pitch 10 - Climb to the wide crack, then, after about 10-12 m it leaves to the left, on a small ledge, then on grassy faces it reaches a comfortable belay station, on a large sandstone ledge. Short pitch.

Pitch 11 - The pitch with the “holes”, one of the most beautiful and unique of the route. We go up, on sandstone ledges, then we turn to the right, with visible pitons and bolts. At one point, from a bent piton into a sandstone ledge, we have to climb up to a hole, we clip to an old piece of rope. From here we climb to a sandstone cave, used for bivouacs by those who climbed the route in winter. Here is a piton beaten in sandstone, if we choose to clip it, put a big sling. You go out of the cave and reach a new bolt. Next is a traverse, where is the mandatory free climbing section of the route. The free climbing grade 7 (6b), but could be overrated, as the traverse has no fixed gear and is a bit exposed, but I think it is actually a 6+ (6a). At the end of the traverse (sandstone handholds pocket footholds) is a small cave with an old bolt. From here we climb a face with new bolts, then traverse to left on weak pitons on a big ledge, until belay station. Great pitch!

Pitch 12 - Initially go upwards, then a long traverse to the right, without fixed gear, with good footholds and some loose handholds. We arrive under an overhanging crack that we aid climbed. The belay station is confortable, on a large sandstone ledge.

Pitch 13 - It is one of the easiest and safest, having many bolts. It can be tried free climbing or easy aid A0. Good belay station, on a large grassy ledge.

Pitch 14 - We go to the right of the ledge, climb a crack and traverse to the left, then we free climb the grass from Bivouac 4, on a large boulder. On the right, you can see the last belay station from the Direct Blue Crack. We climb the boulder freely and traverse to the left, towards a crack where pitons can be seen. From up here, with many pitons. We traverse to the left to a bolt and... there is a very large movement to the next piton, a few meters to the left, a little lower, on a ledge. We grab the piton with a balance and climbed a few more meters to belay station. It's not necessarily a difficult move. Right under the belay station there is a piton missing, but van be replaced with a nut.

Pitch 15 - Up, on easy ledges, until a large ledge. Here you can see a piton in a crack all the way up, but it is easier to get out on the ledge to the right, then on a easy slab, secured with a new bolt.
Information source
Sursă descriere: Cătălin Crețu
Sursă poză: Dana Bazacliu - http://danabaza.blogspot.ro/2017/08/bucegi-traseul-memorial-emilian-cristea.html
Premiera solo iarna (eCLIMB)
Premiera de iarna (Alpinet)
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/12/alpinism-ultimatum.html
alpinismexplorare.ro - http://www.alpinismexplorare.ro/content/peretele-vaii-albe-diedrul-pupezei-si-memorial-emilian-cristea-iunie-2007
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
- costila.go.ro
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Memorial Emilian Cristea

Pictures


Sursă: thewheelchairclimbingroute.ro, Dana Bazacliu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: thewheelchairclimbingroute.ro, Dana Bazacliu

Users who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 22.08.2020
- 22.08.2020pana la L9, este mai greu cu orientarea , niste pasi liber impusi , dar pana la L8 merge facut lejer la rot.

Users who wish to climb the route


Iulia Darie
Constantinescu Anita
Stefan
Chereches Cristian
Adrian Scurtu
Razvan Hotea

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Twenty
Cams and nuts: Twenty
Additional equipment: Twenty
Sursă: thewheelchairclimbingroute.ro, Dana Bazacliu

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