Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Memorial Emilian Cristea (A Memorial Akin Said) 7A, (7, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 06.06.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 7A
Mandatory grade: 7
Aid climbing grade: A1
Quickdraws: Twenty
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Dana Bazacliu 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 15 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 400 m
Climb duration: 12 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangRoofFantasticPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Florin Ularu, Nicolae Cojan, Ladislau Hatházi
Date: 1985
Repaired: Florin Ularu
Second ascent (First repeat): Costică Costia, Michael Buchholtzer, Mihai Popa
Date: 08.1986
First winter ascent: Ion Iulică Pătraşcu, Marius Gane
Date: 08-10.01.1990
First solo ascent: Cornel Sain
Date: 04-05.04.1992


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC-1 – From boulder, go straight up into the sky, and then he left a crack in the grass. The beginning is the same as with the departure of the Hope, but at some point, probably about 20, when we get to the right of the cracks to the horizontal, we're doing it right. They see the rings, it's not a problem. You will cross the face of the alveoli and goes into a doorway, where they regrouped in 4 hands (the only pool nereamenajata). On the right-hand brâna, there is a spreader in the wheelchair. The length is about 40m and the spare is on the 6th.

LC-2 is The pool going straight up into the sky with a crack, a little bit crumbly in your hands. At 4 m above the first pin, a-P. From here, you need to move it to the right, while on the left you can see a line of clean, what comes out of the Faith. We're going to the right, step it up a little bit, and we have to cross a threshold, and then follow the rings until you get the sub of the two pools of Hope, which is the threshold, above, in a tavanel. Continue to the right, climbing up a face and crack, and pooled on the sill comfortably.

LC-3 we can get right to the pot, and then keep it away from the boundary of the grass, climb up on the sill loose and the back to the left, on the direction of the pool bottom. The length is too short and easy.

LC-4 – At the top, a crack that is at the end of a python. SEE how it moves a little bit, and then to the left, another crack in the crossing very difficult. Right here, all up on the sill to the grass, before a wider one, that the broad, where we'll stop at 2 expansoare Fixed. On the left, a few feet away, he sees the bringing together of the Deadline.

The LC 5 – we're off to a dihedral with crack, to the ceiling clearly. We get to the third floor and we have to cross under it, without the insurance, with a cut-off of the tiles in the hand, and the connection is not very clear, at her feet. It is not difficult, but it is exposed to. The grouping is at the far end of the ceiling.

LC-6 to The top, a spreader is visible, the ceiling, and then to the left, avoiding the crack is wider on the top of the threshold of the grass, until we can get a cracking good success. Go up to the podium, on the ceilings and the cracks and all the way across right to the other Wing. We stop at a pool with a 3-expansoare, or you can go in and regroup, even under the Wing, and after a few meters, in common with a Crack of Blue in the right Bivuacului 1. If you can regroup at the base of the wing, you have to keep in mind that the pool is made up of the 4 hands that you are standing right under the departure of the wing.

LC-7 is One of the best – Wing it. It goes a little bit uncomfortable on the back, but the connection is very good. A few meters away from the starting this is what old supported by a spreader – only insurance, this crack wide open. Get the wing in history (moving from place to place on the front of the right hand are the recesses better). The passage is not very difficult, it is a level 6, but the fact that it is not provided it makes it very interesting for the head of the string. At the top of the Wing is a doorway, and up a little more we'll get to the pool place.

LC-8 – that was the beginning Of the artificial, the physical part of the Memorial. Rings you can clearly see, every once in a while there's a spreader. We start at the top, on a ledge, then up a crack to often pitonata. At some point, cross over to the left, then upwards again, up the one side with the recesses, to the right of the 2 hands (one beat from the top to the bottom, the other with a rope, old, very, very thin), from which you cross off to the left, with the threshold for the good to his hand. Re expansoare on the course. I've used it in all the way, a single window with a Rm so that I can recover quickly. There are parts that I don't know what it is, I can go without stirrups.

The LC 9 is In the top 3 expansoare we are very close, which is double the ones of old. There follows a climb towards the front of the compact (I am reminded here of a pin thin). Initially, we climbed up the face towards the end of it, seeing as the grouping, but the output was very crumbly and hard, I desca?arat the anchor out from under me a few feet away. And then we went to the top 2 (of the alveoli in the hand), and I've crossed over to the right, to the edge, and after that there was a hidden cam. The pool excellent over a large boulder, in a crevice, wide.

LC-10 – Get up at the crack wider at the top, after like 10 or 12 I leave it to the left, on a ledge, and then on the side with the grass gets in the pool chest of drawers, a porch and large tiled floors. Long short of it.

LC-11's – Length with the “holes”, and one of the most beautiful and unique of a track. Get up on the sill of the tiles, and then we turn to the right, with a clean and expansoare visible. At any given moment, on what beat and bent it into a cut-off of tile floor you have to climb up to a hole in the top of the we are an hourglass, through which is passed a piece of old rope. From here we climb up to a cave in the sandstone, used as bivouacs for those of you who have hiked the trail in the winter. Here's what's beaten into the tile floor, but, so as not to rub against the rope, I thought I'd do it for sure. It's coming out of the cave, on the outside, and it comes to a spreader, new. Follow the traverse right where it is step-free required the the course. Being a cross, and by being uninsured, it is said that the climb was 7, but I think that this is a 6+. At the end of the crossing over (plugs out of the floor tiles in the hand, and the recesses in the legs) there is a small cave with a spreader of old. From here, we climb a face to the insured often with the expansoare, then cross left on the hands long, a threshold is generous, and by the pool. Nice long length!

LC-12 – Leave the original at the top, and then cross the long, right-hand, without insurance, with a prize, good on his feet, and with a threshold of greater than tile friable in the hand. We're under a breach overhangta we've got an artificial one. The grouping is excellent, with a ceiling high tiles.

LC-13 – it Is one of the most convenient and secure, are regularly provided to the remenajare (I don't understand why it is such a waste of expansoare). You can try it free, or comes right up to A0. The pool of good, a wider one, that the sea of grass.

LC-14 – we're off to the right of the brânei, we'll go up to a rift, and the crossing of the left, and then go off on the grass in Camp 4, and onto a large boulder. To the right, up close, one sees the last of the pool in the Crack of Blue Direct. Get up to off the rock and cross over the short left turn, into a crack where you can see the hands. From here, all of the above, with the hands close together. Traverse left to a spreader and a ... there is a very vast up to the next pin, just found out a few feet to the left, a little below the threshold. I've tried a couple of different ways to get off, but it grips your hand is still broken. I've got the anchor to swing, and we've moved a couple of meters away from the pool. It is a movement, not necessarily the hardest, but by the time I guessed the solution, it's been a long time. When it came to the second, I was trac?ionat wrong, the last anchor of the length of the cut. I didn't have a hammer to beat it back in place, so that there's a movement imposed on the right under the pool, but you can get it free, or it can be put in a nutshell.

LC-15 – At the top, the side skirts, light up a wider one, that big one. Here you can see a cam in a crack up, but it's still not easy to get out on the brâna to the right, then on one side, down light, provided with a spreader, new.
Information source
Sursă descriere: Cătălin Crețu
Sursă poză: Dana Bazacliu - http://danabaza.blogspot.ro/2017/08/bucegi-traseul-memorial-emilian-cristea.html
Premiera solo iarna (eCLIMB)
Premiera de iarna (Alpinet)
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/12/alpinism-ultimatum.html
alpinismexplorare.ro - http://www.alpinismexplorare.ro/content/peretele-vaii-albe-diedrul-pupezei-si-memorial-emilian-cristea-iunie-2007
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
- costila.go.ro
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila is going down the path to the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20 feet. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. We continue up to the Circus, the 1, up the boulder with a big out from under the wall.
Retreat route: It's coming out on the Crest of the Valley to the White and coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, then turn left, you are entering into a different valley that you go down with the help of a chain. After the chains are down to 50 km, and then take potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

Topo

Topo

Memorial Emilian Cristea

Pictures


Sursă: Dana Bazacliu

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Diaries & links



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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila is going down the path to the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20 feet. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. We continue up to the Circus, the 1, up the boulder with a big out from under the wall.
Retreat route: It's coming out on the Crest of the Valley to the White and coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, then turn left, you are entering into a different valley that you go down with the help of a chain. After the chains are down to 50 km, and then take potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Twenty
Cams and nuts: Twenty
Additional equipment: Twenty
Sursă: Dana Bazacliu

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