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Hornul Arnăuţilor 5B, (6a+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 16.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 17.11.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6a+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

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Length: 7 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsQuestionable fixed protectionCams/NutsDihedralChimneyTrees

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Constantin Georgescu, Cristian Andreescu
Date: 1976


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The chimney deserves its rank 5B, the passages being predominantly free, with many areas overhangte, with the rock in the most compact and clean, but with the cams that does not inspire great confidence (pipes with ring).

LC1 start to the limit from the left of the cave, on a chimney deep, with the appearance of diaclaza. Grade 5-without pitons, approx. 35m. Attention, in case of moisture, on this length the walls are covered with slime! Regrouping at the end of the chimney, a pipe and a rock embedded in it.

LC2 ramonam to the outside of the chimney, practically on top of the length of the previous, then rings lead us to the left (facing the valley) on some rapids with the grass. Crossing difficult back on the line of the chimney on a face flushed (originally probably crossing Dülfer). Free required about grade 6, the traverse cam 7-. Regrouping at a tree.

LC3 climb the vertical chimney (gr 6) with clean good, then continue through the places something more calm up to a dihedral overhangt. At the base of it, you can do a pool intermediate. Keep up make sure in some pipes with the ring, the passages increasingly heavier, until at the end of the diedrului which is overhangt and blocked by an agglomeration of boulders that forces us to get out on the right, on a face without pitons. Regrouping is immediately above the 2 pitons.

LC4 continues on the line of the chimney, blocked the top of a boulder with grass, then a tree, and grass, and finally out to the pool.

LC5 is the most beautiful and the most difficult. Initially we climb effortlessly through the right side of the pool and catch the line chimney crossing in the right of a time, after which we put a anou. The first piton is still 4m of here, and I'm sure after a short ramonaj. Above him is a stone recessed, which bypasses without weight through the outside of the chimney, then beautiful passages up to a big pipe and a python on the front left. In this point is the key step of the route. Out on the front left where the sure with the larger hexcentric, then cross upward back into the chimney. Cam 6+/7- imposed. Further difficulties are down, cross slightly over a beetle to the left and catch a chimney narrow which we take in a wider one, that.

LC6 climbs on brâna to the right, aiming at a dihedral prominent. Regrouping at a tree.

LC7 crosses without pitons to the base diedrului and after about 30 m of the artificial get out in the woods.
Information source
Cornel Zarescu
http://www.buila.ro/trasee_catarare_2_ro

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 17' 22.6" E 24° 07' 48.2"    
Access route: It is located in the upstream end of the Collection Folea. The route is easily identifiable, access to the base of his making it on the trail that climbs up to the Cave Arnau?ilor.
Retreat route: The withdrawal is done bypassing the curve of the level to the right up to a valley of forest which descends to the river.

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Hornul Arnăuţilor

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GPS: N 45° 17' 22.6" E 24° 07' 48.2"    
Access route: It is located in the upstream end of the Collection Folea. The route is easily identifiable, access to the base of his making it on the trail that climbs up to the Cave Arnau?ilor.
Retreat route: The withdrawal is done bypassing the curve of the level to the right up to a valley of forest which descends to the river.

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