Traseul Speranţei (Hope Route) 6B
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  • Description
  • Pictures (2)
  • Diaries/Climbs (15)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 21.09.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6B
Mandatory grade: 7-
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 9-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Titus Gonțea 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 14 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 400 m
Climb duration: 10 - 12 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsRoofGrassRecommendedFantasticPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Opriş, Nicolae Jitaru
Date: 1967
Repaired: Mihai Sima, Titus Gonţea
Date: 25.05.2002
First rotpunkt ascent: Dan Borcea
Date: 07.1991
First winter ascent: Emil Coliban, Taina Duţescu-Coliban
Date: 10-13.01.1971


Route description

Pitch 1: From the boulder at the base of the wall we start climbing some loose and muddy section, aiming a crack above, which is left oriented. Attention, even if the climbing is easy, the first piton is at about 35 meters. Belay station on a small rocky ledge, at a base of a crack.

Pitch 2: Starts upwards on the crack, having a small overhang, just above the belay station. The pitch is vertical and the crack is a bit loose and it can be climbed using the layback technique. At the end of the crack we start a traverse to the right, on some sandstone slabs and the pitons are placed uncomfortable, at the level of the feet. Belay station on a small rocky ledge.

Pitch 3: Above the belay station, there is a roof. We start climbing on a left oriented crack towards the roof. We climb under the roof, traversing to the left, on a small sandstone slab. In its' left end, the roof has a dihedral. We continue traversing to the left and after 4 meters we reach a comfortable belay station. The pitch is short, but spectacular.

Pitch 4: From the belay station we start start traversing to the left, over a small ridge, then up a crack which has a small overhang. We turn right, entering a small arch, then traverse 4-5 meters to the left. A last vertical face leads us to a last traverse to the left, arriving at a very comfortable belay station, at The Grass Triangle - Triunghiul de iarbă.

Pitch 5: We climb the vertical dihedral above, then ascending slightly right over some face climbing with small holds until we reach the belay station. Attention, there is another line with pitons, on a dihedral, on out left side, but our route continues to the right.

Pitch 6: We climb to the right, then upwards, towards a small cave, continues to the right until we reach a grassy crack. We climb the crack, and after the crack ends we climb to the right until we reach the belay station, on a small ledge.

Pitch 7: From the belay station we down climb to the right about 6 meters until we reach a ridge, then we cross it. We start climbing an arch right oriented, leading us to the belay station under the section named The Balcony (Amvon). The belay station is on a sandstone ledge.

Pitch 8: It is the pitch which climbs the Amvon. We climb upwards, slightly to the right, until we reach the roof, then under the roof, on a sandstone ledge. The traverse continues passing over a small sandstone ridge. At the end of the traverse, the roof forms a dihedral, which we climb. After the dihedral, we turn left, we start climbing a difficult slightly overhanging crack, which leads us to the belay station.

Pitch 9: Climbs to the right, above the belay station. Passes by a small ridge, then climbing an arch right oriented. Passes over a small overhang (some climb it on its' left side, some on the right side - it is easier on the left side), then climb a crack which leads us to an uncomfortable belay station, on some sandstone slabs.

Pitch 10: Starts to the left (3 meters), then climbs a vertical face, with a chemical anchor. On the right we will climb a crack (which is not visible from below). After the crack ends, we start traversing to the left, until we reach a small ledge, which leads at the base of an arch right oriented. We traverse below the arch, then continue above on the crack, then slightly to the left, to the belay station, on a grassy ledge.

Pitch 11: It is the easiest pitch of the route. Climbs to the left, then on a small crack, then some grassy section, until we reach Hopes Ledge - Brâna Speranţei, on which we traverse to the right until we reach the belay station.

Pitch 12: Climbs up a loose face, turns right under a big arch. We follow the arch, which becomes a vertical crack in its' upper part. We pass over a small overhang and arrive at a comfortable belay station.

Pitch 13: We climb upwards a vertical crack, under another big arch. Climb under the arch, traverse to the left on a slab face (about 7 meters), then start climbing a grassy crack which leads us to the last belay station, under the final big chimney.
 
Pitch 14: Last pitch, consisting in a very easy vertical chimney, which exits in the White Valley Ridge. This pitch has no fixed gear, but it's easy.

The most difficult section is in the middle of the route, pitches 8, 9, 10, where the wall is the most vertical.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism, Ed. a 2-a, rev. și adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964; 
fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/12/alpinism-ultimatum.html
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/search/label/Tr.%20Sperantei%206B

Access and retreat

Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall.
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Speranţei

Pictures


Sursă: Titus Gonțea

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Titus Gonțea

User who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 13.10.2018
Chereches Cristian - 27.09.2018, Vara
Bercean Ioan - 27.09.2018, Vara
Constantinescu Anita - 22.09.2018
Constantinescu Anita - 08.09.2018
Vasile Dumitrică - 01.07.2016, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Iulia Darie
Constantinescu Anita
Stefan
Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 18.08.2012

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. We hike up the First Cirque - Circul 1, until we reach a big boulder, at the base of the wall.
Retreat route: Te route exits in White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Equipment


Sursă: Titus Gonțea

Comments




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