Route description Pitch 1: From the boulder at the base of the wall we start climbing some loose and muddy section, aiming a crack above, which is left oriented. Attention, even if the climbing is easy, the first piton is at about 35 meters. Belay station on a small rocky ledge, at a base of a crack.
Pitch 2: Starts upwards on the crack, having a small overhang, just above the belay station. The pitch is vertical and the crack is a bit loose and it can be climbed using the layback technique. At the end of the crack we start a traverse to the right, on some sandstone slabs and the pitons are placed uncomfortable, at the level of the feet. Belay station on a small rocky ledge.
Pitch 3: Above the belay station, there is a roof. We start climbing on a left oriented crack towards the roof. We climb under the roof, traversing to the left, on a small sandstone slab. In its' left end, the roof has a dihedral. We continue traversing to the left and after 4 meters we reach a comfortable belay station. The pitch is short, but spectacular.
Pitch 4: From the belay station we start start traversing to the left, over a small ridge, then up a crack which has a small overhang. We turn right, entering a small arch, then traverse 4-5 meters to the left. A last vertical face leads us to a last traverse to the left, arriving at a very comfortable belay station, at The Grass Triangle - Triunghiul de iarbă.
Pitch 5: We climb the vertical dihedral above, then ascending slightly right over some face climbing with small holds until we reach the belay station. Attention, there is another line with pitons, on a dihedral, on out left side, but our route continues to the right.
Pitch 6: We climb to the right, then upwards, towards a small cave, continues to the right until we reach a grassy crack. We climb the crack, and after the crack ends we climb to the right until we reach the belay station, on a small ledge.
Pitch 7: From the belay station we down climb to the right about 6 meters until we reach a ridge, then we cross it. We start climbing an arch right oriented, leading us to the belay station under the section named The Balcony (Amvon). The belay station is on a sandstone ledge.
Pitch 8: It is the pitch which climbs the Amvon. We climb upwards, slightly to the right, until we reach the roof, then under the roof, on a sandstone ledge. The traverse continues passing over a small sandstone ridge. At the end of the traverse, the roof forms a dihedral, which we climb. After the dihedral, we turn left, we start climbing a difficult slightly overhanging crack, which leads us to the belay station.
Pitch 9: Climbs to the right, above the belay station. Passes by a small ridge, then climbing an arch right oriented. Passes over a small overhang (some climb it on its' left side, some on the right side - it is easier on the left side), then climb a crack which leads us to an uncomfortable belay station, on some sandstone slabs.
Pitch 10: Starts to the left (3 meters), then climbs a vertical face, with a chemical anchor. On the right we will climb a crack (which is not visible from below). After the crack ends, we start traversing to the left, until we reach a small ledge, which leads at the base of an arch right oriented. We traverse below the arch, then continue above on the crack, then slightly to the left, to the belay station, on a grassy ledge.
Pitch 11: It is the easiest pitch of the route. Climbs to the left, then on a small crack, then some grassy section, until we reach Hopes Ledge - Brâna Speranţei, on which we traverse to the right until we reach the belay station.
Pitch 12: Climbs up a loose face, turns right under a big arch. We follow the arch, which becomes a vertical crack in its' upper part. We pass over a small overhang and arrive at a comfortable belay station.
Pitch 13: We climb upwards a vertical crack, under another big arch. Climb under the arch, traverse to the left on a slab face (about 7 meters), then start climbing a grassy crack which leads us to the last belay station, under the final big chimney.
Pitch 14: Last pitch, consisting in a very easy vertical chimney, which exits in the White Valley Ridge. This pitch has no fixed gear, but it's easy.
The most difficult section is in the middle of the route, pitches 8, 9, 10, where the wall is the most vertical.
Information source Bucegi Turism Alpinism, Ediția a 2-a, rev. și adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964;
fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
- Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2009/12/alpinism-ultimatum.html
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