Just another fucking day (JAFD) (Just Another Fucking Day) 7A
4,50/5 (2 votes)




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  • Diaries/Climbs (10)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 21.11.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 7A
Mandatory grade: 7+/8-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 8+/9-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Just another fucking day (JAFD) 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 14 pitches
Altitude: 1850 m
Height: 450 m
Climb duration: 10 - 12 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsSlabVerticalTraverseRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Justin Ionescu, Dănuţ Ocheşel
Date: 13.10.2006
Second ascent (First repeat): Victor Dinu, Teofil Vlad
Date: 2007


Route description

The line of the route crosses 3 other routes: Fisurile Centrale, Traseul Central and Muchia Brânelor.

The in place protection made of the best quality materials and set according to international standards. 10mm mechanical anchors, 100mm long, Petzl bolt hangers and 10mm adhesive anchors 10mm, 120mm long.

Route characteristics: 14 pitches, 500m
Belay stations: 1 bolt & 1 mechanical anchor (except for 8th belay)
Equipment used for first ascent: 50 m rope, 11 quick draws, 1 set of nuts, 2-3 medium size friends

Pitch 1: 50 m; compact rock; rock slab with 4 pieces of fixed protection and possibility to place a friend. grade 5
Pitch 2: 50 m; compact rock; rock slab with 4 pieces of fixed protection and possibility to place nuts. grade 5
Pitch 3: 50 m; fixed protection: 4 pcs.; 7 m dihedral followed by a traverse to the right on a slab to a grassy ledge. Belay station under another grassy ledge. grade 5
Pitch 4: 35 m; fixed protection: 6 pcs. Climb on the grassy ledge above and traverse around 4 meters to the right. After it, continue leftwards, on the almost vertical face above you, following the bolted line. Grade 7-
Pitch 5: 50 m; fixed protection: 7 pcs., possibility to place nuts and friends; Climb 3-4 meters above then start a 10 m descendant traverse to the right. It's a crux where you can go A0 but still do some climbing in between bolts. Go up diagonally right for about 7-8 m to the base of a 7 m crack. At the end of the crack continue traversing right on an arch and then to a ledge. Belay station to the right. Grade 6 with A0.
Pitch 6: 50 m; fixed protection: 6 pcs.; start over a small overhang and continue up on the vertical face. Belay station under a small roof cut by a dihedral. Grade 7
Pitch 7: 50 m; fixed protection: 6 pcs.; 7 m vertical dihedral ending in a small overhang. Continue up on slabs, slightly oriented left, until reaching a grassy ledge, under a chimney. Grade 7
Pitch 8: 35 m, fixed protection: 2 pcs. and possibility to place mobile protection; start with an easy dihedral and continue on a large poorly protected crack. Belay on the pillar at an old piton and a mechanical anchor. After this pitch the route traverses from the first circus of Valea Alba to the second. Grade 5
Pitch 9: 50 m, fixed protection: 4 pcs.; traverse under a roof, continue up to the left until you reach the base of black rock face. Grade 5
Pitch 10: 50 m; fixed protection: 11 pcs.; vertical, compact rock face with pockets. At the end of it traverse slightly left and continue on an overhanging face to the left. Belay station on a grassy step. Grade 8 or A0 (with 8-?)
Pitch 11: 40 m, fixed protection: 3 pcs. and possibility to place mobile protection; go up and to the left for about 8 meters, then traverse left until you reach the grass and then up until the belay station on a ledge, at the base of a chimney. Grade 6
Pitch 12: 40 m; fixed protection: 5 pcs. and possibility to place mobile protection; follow a 5 m chimney then go diagonally left until you reach a 5-6 m crack, slightly to the left, enter an ascending ledge to the right. Grade 7-
Pitch 13: 50 m; fixed protection: 9 pcs.; compact vertical rock, beautiful climbing on pockets with spaced fixed protection. Grade 7-
Pitch 14: 40 m; fixed protection: 4 pcs.; Go up 6 m, traverse diagonally right towards a large brittle crack. Very well protected. Grade 6

Take into consideration: most of the description and the grading was done by the team opening the route and some consider it to be a little under graded. Very airy route described mostly be rock faces, with little classical obstacles.
Note: A set of hexes (like DMM TorqueNuts) may be more appropriate then friends.



Information source
fralpinism.ro - http://www.fralpinism.ro/Descrieri/Just-Another-F-Day.html
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2012/09/03/just-another-fucking-day-in-peretele-vaii-albe/

Access and retreat

Access route: 

From Coștila refuge traverse left through the forest, at the base of the Țancul Mic pillar. Continue slightly ascending through the forrest until an obvious couloir (Vâlcelul Pietros). Go up on it s left shoulder, parallel to the wall on the righ, until you reach a small grassy plateau. Here you have the option to continue directly up on a muddy couloir with an in place cableor traverse to the left on a grassy trail. Traverse to the left on the exposed trail, going up and following the base of the rock walls above you. You will descend afterwards, go again up around 15m on easy rocky terrain and once again descend at the base of the White Valley Wall.


You can also camp in the cave close to the wall. The cave can be reached by traversing rightwards at the beginning of the last descent during approach.


Just Another Fucking Day starts on the pillar that marks the passing from the first rock circus of the valely to the second, the pillar that starts from the lowest altitude on the wall (allowing JAFD to arguably be the longest climbing route in Romania)

Retreat route: The route exits on White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă.

Topo

Topo

Just another fucking day (JAFD)

Pictures


Just another fucking day (JAFD)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Just another fucking day (JAFD)

User who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 04.11.2018
Vasile Dumitrică - 21.09.2018, Vara
Vasile Dumitrică - 10.07.2016, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian
Constantinescu Anita
Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: 

From Coștila refuge traverse left through the forest, at the base of the Țancul Mic pillar. Continue slightly ascending through the forrest until an obvious couloir (Vâlcelul Pietros). Go up on it s left shoulder, parallel to the wall on the righ, until you reach a small grassy plateau. Here you have the option to continue directly up on a muddy couloir with an in place cableor traverse to the left on a grassy trail. Traverse to the left on the exposed trail, going up and following the base of the rock walls above you. You will descend afterwards, go again up around 15m on easy rocky terrain and once again descend at the base of the White Valley Wall.


You can also camp in the cave close to the wall. The cave can be reached by traversing rightwards at the beginning of the last descent during approach.


Just Another Fucking Day starts on the pillar that marks the passing from the first rock circus of the valely to the second, the pillar that starts from the lowest altitude on the wall (allowing JAFD to arguably be the longest climbing route in Romania)

Retreat route: The route exits on White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă.

Equipment


Just another fucking day (JAFD)

Comments




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