Today we celebrate 28 years since Hornul de la Curtea Oţelei (Peretele Oţelei) first ascent

Muchia Brânelor 5A, 5c
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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 21.02.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 4c/4c+
Rotpunkt grade: 5c
Type: Classic route

 Muchia Brânelor 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 8 pitches
Altitude: 1950 m
Height: 300 m
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsChimneyGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Lubenescu, Andrei Ghiţescu
Date: 14.06.1955


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


The route follows along the edge nearly vertical, which intersect along a series of platforms, partially covered with vegetation.
Since the Circus of the 2nd, the first part of the route follows the Edge Brânelor diagonally and to the right area in places grassy", which is published in mane that individual Cracks in the Central (left, like us) sea spintecatura to Fisurii Blue, located at the Eastern end of the Valley to PereteIui White.
First L. C. aims to dihedral 20 m the height of climbing, finally, to take on the wide belt, where we belay station.
During your 2-L. C. hold along the belt, crawl slash to the right, on a plot of 40 m.
3-L. C. occur when one level of approx. 2 m, which escaladam. Here, through the cracks of 7-8 km we walk up the aisle strongly inclined, and after crawling a few minutes left, to overcome a number of challenging obstacles at the end of which meet brâna, where we hold new belay station.
4 L. C. the first zone and, finally, to take before, the text, the machine that we use on the diagonal, approx. 10 m at the base of the crack, covered with vegetation, where we belay station.
Along the line of the crack (5-L. C.), we belay station after 40 m, does not meet with obstacles, dificultale extraordinary.
6 L. C. begins with a bypass approx. 5 m to the right, then climb on some roofs, that may increase in the CPT, on the front of the wall. Înierbat zone marks the point from which we will perform traverse to the right, while on the basis of chimney with loose rock, at the entrance of which we belay station.
Open in this chimney through ramonaj (7 HP), pass through the plates turned red. The passage overhangnt that will represent the point of maximum complexity of a route and is out of date by 2-3 pitons. Regrouping is carried out on a wide platform, where we can trace is easy to set the details of the plot the final route.
Throughout its 8-L. C., which runs through the area, as well made as in previous years, we follow the vertical wall at a distance of approx. 40 m, passing through the little chimney, and in the future, more overhang and front is cracked, which is climbing on a double chord requires a very careful distribution of strings in carabiniere.
In the penultimate L. C. (9) climb the face of a strong bias, through a series of small rocky rapids, and then we belay station in chimney deeply.
The last L. C. (10) rises the chimney that opens more and more, taking in the upper part of the exterior of the funnel is huge. With this obstacle turn, finally, to take in the White Ridge of the Valley, where the path (to the West) we go out in the Belt Big Co?tilei, under the Rock, his Gelepeanu.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism, Ed. a 2-a, rev. și adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964; 
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, București, 2000
Cătălin Şerban - https://www.flickr.com/photos/catalin_serban/sets/72157627022604072/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: Asylum Co?tila going on the path Brâna Air. We will pass 2 vâlcele we will keep a small crestuli?a until we come In Ambush. If we chain, we came too high, we should go down 20 meters In wait we are doing the left on a narrow potecu?a and explained that we were going to Circuses Valley White. To the Circus 1 the trail continues under the wall, in the Circus 2. At the end brânei, it chimneyule? on which he rises to brâna, go right to the end. Here, a little around the corner, it chimneyule?, raised in the Circus of Stone. Subjected, as under it appears the path down to the base of the wall and something on the top, but easy.
Retreat route: She goes to the Crest of the Valley, White and descends from the ridge on Brâna Air. Along the way we find a few red mechanical anchors that we can use for steering in case of tiredness or bad weather. We use Brâna Air (which has all over metallic cable), then go down in vâlcel, which continues to the end to make it left, into another vâcel that we go down with the chain. After the ends of the chain he descends to 50 m, then potecu?a crestuli?a is on the right (as we descend). We use the right brâna (on top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we descend some vâlcel with the circuit and we get, from where I left in place In Ambush. There for 20 minutes we returned to the Shelter.

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Muchia Brânelor

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GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: Asylum Co?tila going on the path Brâna Air. We will pass 2 vâlcele we will keep a small crestuli?a until we come In Ambush. If we chain, we came too high, we should go down 20 meters In wait we are doing the left on a narrow potecu?a and explained that we were going to Circuses Valley White. To the Circus 1 the trail continues under the wall, in the Circus 2. At the end brânei, it chimneyule? on which he rises to brâna, go right to the end. Here, a little around the corner, it chimneyule?, raised in the Circus of Stone. Subjected, as under it appears the path down to the base of the wall and something on the top, but easy.
Retreat route: She goes to the Crest of the Valley, White and descends from the ridge on Brâna Air. Along the way we find a few red mechanical anchors that we can use for steering in case of tiredness or bad weather. We use Brâna Air (which has all over metallic cable), then go down in vâlcel, which continues to the end to make it left, into another vâcel that we go down with the chain. After the ends of the chain he descends to 50 m, then potecu?a crestuli?a is on the right (as we descend). We use the right brâna (on top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we descend some vâlcel with the circuit and we get, from where I left in place In Ambush. There for 20 minutes we returned to the Shelter.

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Muchia Brânelor

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