Fisura Roşie (Red Crack) 5B
3,00/5 (1 vote)




2203 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (14)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 28.09.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursa foto: Mihai Sava. Desen: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 10 pitches
Altitude: 1950 m
Height: 300 m
Climb duration: 6 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsCrackGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emil Fomino, Ion Ionescu, Dorin Grigorescu
Date: 13.10.1955


Route description

Pitch 1: Starts at the end of the Circului de Piatră - Stone Cirque on a small dihedral on which we find one piton, the we climb through the grass until we reach the ledge on which we find the belay station.

Pitch 2: We turn left on the ledge, we climb a crack which some old protections (manufactured pipes/tubes), then to the left until we reach a small grassy ledge where we can make a belay station. If we choose not to, we continue to the left, until we reach a crack, followed by some face climbing, then we arrive at a big grassy ledge, where is the belay station.

Pitch 3: We start the pitch down climbing the ledge to the right, which leads to a small chimney. From here we go to the right, until we reach a ledge (where is a small cave formed by a huge rock block, with an intermediate belay station). We can continue upwards through the grass towards the ledge of the Red Crack (which gives the name of the route). 55 meters

Pitch 4: We climb the crack, the fixed gear consists on manufactured old pipes and tubes (but we can protect the crack with cams). There is a small overhang just before the belay station, which is on a sandstone ledge, and all the pegs from the belay station are bad. It is best of we clip in the first peg from the next pitch, especially because it is very high and here is the crux of the route.

Pitch 5: After we pass the crux, we continue on the crack. On the upper part of the pitch we start traversing to the right, at a belay station with a small cave.

Pitch 6: Continue to the left until we reach a crack, climb the crack, go right, below an overhang, until we reach a big ledge, covered with sand, at the base of a chimney left oriented.

Pitch 7: We climb the left chimney (despite we can't see any protection). First peg is at about 8 meters from the belay station. DO NOT go to the right on the ledge where we see a line of pitons, which will soon end. After the chimney we climb a small spur, then traverse to the left on a slab. The belay station is at a base of a crack and it is uncomfortable.

Pitch 8: We climb the crack which has many pitons (but beware, some pitons are very weak and are moving in the crack), than start a traverse to the left, over a compact rock face, until we reach a ledge.

Pitch 9: Continue the traverse to the left on the big ledge towards the final chimney. Very easy climbing but with loose rock.

Pitch 10: Exit through Eftimie Croitoru route, through a easy chimney on which we find 2-3 pitons. The belay station is right after we exit the chimney (2 bolts). Until Coştila Big Ledge - Brâna Mare a Coştilei, we must climb a small boulder, to the left of the belay station.
Information source
fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/11/tr-fisura-rosie-5b-circul-2.html
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Descriere LC1-LC3 - Rupi
Poză - Nagy Rudolf (Rudi); Mihai Sava

Access and retreat

Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. From First Cirque - Circul 1, we continue on the trail under the wall, towards the Second Cirue - Circul 2. At the end of the trail there is a chimney, which we follow until we reach a ledge. We cross it to the right, until we reach the end. From here, around the corner, there is a chimney, which we climb towards Circului de Piatră - Stone Cirque. It is very exposed, because right under it we can see the where we started, but it is easy climbing.
Retreat route: We climb until we reach the trail Coştila Big Ledge - Brâna Mare a Coştilei. We follow the trail to the right until we reach the highest point (5 minutes), until the junction with White Valley Ridge (we can see upwards, to the left, a big and easy chimney, Gelepeanu Chimney through we can exit to the plateau), on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Roşie

Pictures


Sursa foto: Mihai Sava. Desen: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursa foto: Mihai Sava. Desen: Rupi

User who climbed the route


Ad Rian - 22.09.2018, Vara
Jabon - 22.09.2018, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980

Users who wish to climb the route


Constantinescu Anita
Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 22.09.2018

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we hike on the Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană trail. We will cross 2 small gullies, we will hike a small ridge untill we reach La Pândă. If we came across some chains, we are on the wrong path, and must down climb 20 meters. From La Pândă we will walk on a small trail to the left which leads us to White Valley Cirques. From First Cirque - Circul 1, we continue on the trail under the wall, towards the Second Cirue - Circul 2. At the end of the trail there is a chimney, which we follow until we reach a ledge. We cross it to the right, until we reach the end. From here, around the corner, there is a chimney, which we climb towards Circului de Piatră - Stone Cirque. It is very exposed, because right under it we can see the where we started, but it is easy climbing.
Retreat route: We climb until we reach the trail Coştila Big Ledge - Brâna Mare a Coştilei. We follow the trail to the right until we reach the highest point (5 minutes), until the junction with White Valley Ridge (we can see upwards, to the left, a big and easy chimney, Gelepeanu Chimney through we can exit to the plateau), on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă.

Equipment


Sursa foto: Mihai Sava. Desen: Rupi

Comments




Recently climbed routes in Peretele Văii Albe

Just another fucking day (JAFD) 7A, 7+/8- A0 (8+/9-)

Considered the longest multi-pitch route in Romania, JAFD is a hard modern route in the highest wall of Bucegi Mountains. 14 pitches, conglomerate rock, a mix of sports & trad climbing protection.
    Constantinescu Anita - 04.11.2018

Diedrul Pupezei 6A, 6+/7- A0 (7+)

One of the classics of Coştila, having 2 pitches of a very beautiful dihedral.
    Titus Gonțea, Mihai Sava - 04.11.2018

Traseul Speranţei 6B, 7- A1 (9-)

One of the best climbs in White Valley Wall, following a natural and beautiful line. Unfortunately the route has less fixed gear than it had in its' first decades, seeing less climbs in the last years.
    Constantinescu Anita - 13.10.2018

Sărutul Pământului 7A, 7/7+ A0 (8/8+)

Committing route with beautiful face climbing and some crumbly rock sections. Stainless steel bolted belays. Mobile protection needed (medium nuts and a set of cams for cracks from 14mm to 70mm in size) to supplement the sparse, fixed pro along the pitches (mechanical stainless steel anchors and pitons, some of which of questionable quality)
    Vasile Dumitrică - solo asigurat - 13.10.2018