Fisurile Centrale (Cracks Central) 4A, 6
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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 17.03.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Rotpunkt grade: 6
Type: Classic route

 Sursă LauraB 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 1950 m
Height: 300 m
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsChimneyGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Oskar Schöbesch
Date: 06.10.1940
Second ascent (First repeat): Niculae Baticu, Dan Popescu
Date: 13.10.1940


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route started in 1939 by Ion ?incan, T. Rossignion, Virgil Georgescu.

Length 1: Start at the upper end of the Circus of stone on a dihedral small which is a python, then through the grass up on the girdle that is belay station.

The length of the 2: To the left and a wider one, that up to a crack pipe which after it ends it goes to the left up on a brâni?a small where they can regroup. Here on the left up to a crack followed by a shorter front and belay station on a wider one, that sea of grass.

Length 3: An easy descent on the brâna to the right leads to a small chimneyule?. Here to the right to a pool on a wider one, that chest of drawers to a small cave formed by a boulder, where it can continue up through the grass up to the girdle of the great on the which start Crack Red the actual. On this brâna is done right up to the pool 55m.

Length 4: a crack fine up to a vertical face and friable, very poorly secured. Regrouping is a small grotto in which we can see the bottles of a shape that sure our grandparents have known them...

Length 5: From the pool up on a chimneyule? with a beetle which passes directly. The output is on the grass and from here on the route has no more difficulties than in terms of low insurance. It crosses a ridge and regroup. All pools will be in a single python.

Length 6: a wider one, that upward around a large boulder on the right.

Length 7: Girdle of the upward and oblique right up in the Ridge of the Valley White, on the distance of several lengths.
Information source
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/11/tr-fisurile-centrale-4a-circul-2.html
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000
Descriere Oskar Schöbesch - Jurnalul unui alpinist și aviator, pg 220-221
Poză - LauraB

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: At the Refuge Co?tila it goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Airline. We'll get 2 dells, we will keep a small crestuli?a until we get on The Prowl. If we get a chain I got too high, we need to go down 20 m. At the Stakeout we left on a mountain narrow and exposed what leads us in the Cirques of the Valley White. The Circus 1 is continuous path under the wall, by the Circus 2. At the end of the brânei, is a chimneyule?, which climbs up to a wider one, that, that is browse to the right, until at the end of it. Here, somewhat around the corner, it is a chimneyule?, which climbs up to the Circus of Stone. Is exposed, for as a sub he comes down the trail from the base of the wall and it is some height, but easy.
Retreat route: It stands out in the Ridge of the Valley and White down on the ridge by the Girdle of the Airline. Along the way we find more anchors mechanical red that we can use for the booster in case of tiredness or bad weather. Cross the Girdle of the Airline (what's throughout the her metal cable), It descends then into a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go into the other vâcel that in down with the help of chains. After ending the chains are down another 50 m, then take potecu?a on crestuli?a from the right (as we descend). Traverse right on a wider one, that (on top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a kind of valley with the chain and we arrive where we started, in the place of The Ambush. Of there in 20 minutes we are back at the Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Fisurile Centrale

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Sursă LauraB

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Users who climbed the route


Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980
- 01.08.1980

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: At the Refuge Co?tila it goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Airline. We'll get 2 dells, we will keep a small crestuli?a until we get on The Prowl. If we get a chain I got too high, we need to go down 20 m. At the Stakeout we left on a mountain narrow and exposed what leads us in the Cirques of the Valley White. The Circus 1 is continuous path under the wall, by the Circus 2. At the end of the brânei, is a chimneyule?, which climbs up to a wider one, that, that is browse to the right, until at the end of it. Here, somewhat around the corner, it is a chimneyule?, which climbs up to the Circus of Stone. Is exposed, for as a sub he comes down the trail from the base of the wall and it is some height, but easy.
Retreat route: It stands out in the Ridge of the Valley and White down on the ridge by the Girdle of the Airline. Along the way we find more anchors mechanical red that we can use for the booster in case of tiredness or bad weather. Cross the Girdle of the Airline (what's throughout the her metal cable), It descends then into a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go into the other vâcel that in down with the help of chains. After ending the chains are down another 50 m, then take potecu?a on crestuli?a from the right (as we descend). Traverse right on a wider one, that (on top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a kind of valley with the chain and we arrive where we started, in the place of The Ambush. Of there in 20 minutes we are back at the Refuge.

Equipment


Sursă LauraB

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