Hornul cu Peşteră (The chimney Cave) 6A, (6+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 7 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangRoofChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Constantin Braneci, Frank Schobel
Date: 1989


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: Right on the chimney. Slowly climbed. Little insurance, but enough. In the middle of the pipe is belay station on parg but you can continue up. It comes in various caves, including the right side of the boulder, with a loop or cordelina sea. 55m, 6+
LC2: On the right wall. Little insurance and the camera is bad. The action forced the air 7-/7. Lasagna is excellent. Right up until in surpomba where he crosses, on his stomach or pitit left. It includes a grotto, or an hourglass from his lips grotei, or more convenient, at the hourglass in the bottom grotei. 25m, 7-/7
LC3: Introduced artificially in the stirrup imposed lasagna libea 7-/7. Access to the grotto, on the ceiling, at the stapes. Insurance enough. It would be useful 2 scari?e. Then continue up to an artificial, small crack along the vertical. Expunearea is fine. From place to place, you need to free climb, as the distance between the nails. He is on the pitch slowly climbed out, where the General outline of rearrangement, but I kept on, up, on brâna. On the final climb one two-sided machine, neasigurat, fantastic! Rearrangement of the tree. 55m, A1 7-/7
LC4: He's leaving on a crest of a rocky, straight up. In surpomba it crosses to the left of the crack and continued up. Insurance a little, but enough. Lasagna tender. I'm insured on 2 nails, cracks uncomfortable, hung. 30 m, A0 7-/7
LC5: Directly on crack. After ~20 m out on the field and easily including wood. 30 m, 7-
Information source
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2014/10/2014-09-14-buila-hornul-cu-pestera-6a-7-7-5lc.html/2

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: In the Country the Key to cross the water and go along the path marked with Blue Triangle. In the Wall it crosses and the water and lifted from the wreckage, ever 50m to the base of the wall and, respectively, the uni chimney large, clear.
Retreat route: They climb very easily on the ridge to the left. He then goes to the ridge until the saddle, where we start we descend to the left to rapeluri long along vâlcel.

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GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: In the Country the Key to cross the water and go along the path marked with Blue Triangle. In the Wall it crosses and the water and lifted from the wreckage, ever 50m to the base of the wall and, respectively, the uni chimney large, clear.
Retreat route: They climb very easily on the ridge to the left. He then goes to the ridge until the saddle, where we start we descend to the left to rapeluri long along vâlcel.

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