Turnul Mirajului 5A, 6a (5a, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 29.04.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 5a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6a
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 9 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsVerticalOverhangRidgeCrackRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Tătulescu, Iosif Gheţie, Mircea Săndulescu
Date: 1970
Repaired: Mircea Săndulescu
Date: 2000


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: Cover approx. 15 m on Vâlcelul Goats, then climb a vertical wall of 20 m, having the sockets good. They regroup in a cave, marked by a tree.

LC2: to cross to the left 7 m on a threshold so the right of a dihedral overhangnt. Overcome the first beetle, after we engage in a crack open, what is browse through a free climbing exposed, combined with the climb artificial. Regroup in a cave whose entrance is partly obscured by a buttress.

LC3: Continue climbing on the face of the spur, on the plugs fine, up on its tip, then with the help of pitons cross 5 m to the left under a ceiling. Climb a crack overhangnta, then cross to the right 5 m, then climb on a plate washed, approx. 10 km, then cross a pragule? up to the pool.

LC4: Overcome a beetle directly, then we are embarking on a vertical crack, and regroup on a threshold grass.

LC5: climb a crack slanting to the right, then overcome the 3-stage moves and still a crack oblique to the right, then a free climbing we get to another platform with grass.

LC6: It crosses a plate of 5 m through the opposition hands-the legs, then move directly to a beetle and a crack overhangnta what is passed by free climbing. They regrouped at a platform with a pin.

LC 7, 8, 9: It continues climbing on a ridge inclined with passages of free of little difficulty, until the Ridge Stog?oarelor, between the Tip 3 and the saddle Mountains to the Bear.
Information source
C.S.U. I.P.G.G. Bucureşti, Buila-Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970
Schiţă - Cornel Zarescu
Alpinism si Escalada Sportiva in Banat si Oltenia

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: We cross the stream Key in the right of the Canton, we climb Vâlcelul Goats, first on scree, then on the cracks and faces washed, and vertical up to a wider one, that, what bypasses a number of the major difficulties of the vâlcelului. He returns to the valley and get to the base of the route.
Retreat route: The withdrawal can be done both to the right, descending through a booster from 40 m and then make sure in the chord, in strunga Mountains of the Bear, (then without technical problems, on this sluice box in the bottom) or on the left, continuing the Ridge Stog?oarelor, grade 1.

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Turnul Mirajului

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GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: We cross the stream Key in the right of the Canton, we climb Vâlcelul Goats, first on scree, then on the cracks and faces washed, and vertical up to a wider one, that, what bypasses a number of the major difficulties of the vâlcelului. He returns to the valley and get to the base of the route.
Retreat route: The withdrawal can be done both to the right, descending through a booster from 40 m and then make sure in the chord, in strunga Mountains of the Bear, (then without technical problems, on this sluice box in the bottom) or on the left, continuing the Ridge Stog?oarelor, grade 1.

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