31 yeas ago, Horia Stamatu was leaving us. Today we celebrate 49 years since Hornul Negru (Peretele Orga Mare) first ascent, 49 years since Surplomba Hornului (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent, 60 years since Fisura în S (Amfiteatrul Colţilor Gemeni) first ascent, 60 years since Surplomba Neagră (Amfiteatrul Colţilor Gemeni) first ascent, 13 years since 07.07.2007 (Cheile Ampoiţei) first ascent

Vâlcelul Turnului 1A
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 30.03.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 1A
Type: Alpine route

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Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Iosif Gheţie, Nicolae Tătulescu
Date: 03.06.1969


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Get in on the vâlcelului, which is at the bottom, into the woods, a large amount of the debris is unstable, going up on the stage, rocky, or grassy. The first spring, and the most difficult, because it consists in a passage inclined to a dihedral in general, the moist, about 30, and in which the parts are used ramonajul. After the passing of this passage, up some steps, grass, interrupted only by the small rapids of the rock that you climb up directly to.
As an alternative to a degree is similar, you can climb up the faces of which lead directly to the tower, the passages are beautiful, the outlets are numerous, and a small circus for the pool. Last spring on the valley, just below the gap, he goes straight after which out of the bottleneck around, and climbing on the ac, we go out on the Marshes. The tower Stog?oare, where the trail ends.

It is necessary the use of ropes in some areas.
Information source
C.S.U. I.P.G.G. Bucureşti, Buila-Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: In order to get into the valley, across the river, the Key, climb up the forested slopes, and with debris in the left side of the tower until it is visible, a possibility to climb to the mountain pass of the Tower, Stog?oare and the Stog?oare.
Access duration: 20 min
Retreat route: Lowering the light is on the right-hand side, coming out through the trees, a wider one, that the fine is coming from the gap. Girdle and followed it to the right, with the little ups and downs that require your attention, it leads us after about 10-15 minutes into the Mountains of Yellow, that go down to the river, the Key to which we pass in order to get to the Airport.

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GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: In order to get into the valley, across the river, the Key, climb up the forested slopes, and with debris in the left side of the tower until it is visible, a possibility to climb to the mountain pass of the Tower, Stog?oare and the Stog?oare.
Retreat route: Lowering the light is on the right-hand side, coming out through the trees, a wider one, that the fine is coming from the gap. Girdle and followed it to the right, with the little ups and downs that require your attention, it leads us after about 10-15 minutes into the Mountains of Yellow, that go down to the river, the Key to which we pass in order to get to the Airport.

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