Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru (Soldier Hero Eftimie Croitoru) 5B, 7+ (6/6+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 09.09.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6/6+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Classic route

 Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 10 pitches
Altitude: 1950 m
Height: 300 m
Climb duration: 6 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCrackGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Aurel Irimia, Emilian Cristea, Radu Constantin
Date: 01.07.1952
Repaired: Titus Gonţea, Vlad Grigore
Date: 2014
Story: Link
First winter ascent: Nicolae Jitaru, Ion Coleşiu, Nicolae Marian
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail leads us to the scocul the Circus of Stone (the map located exactly below the Fissure Red), after it has had that go horizontal, right, on the curve of the level, once you enter into the sluice box, identify in the left a small larch tree, after which the faces left us avantam on an inclined chute, what the above makes a course more exposed. After approx. 30 me find insurance, where we can regroup, or continue simultaneously escalate, while keeping the direction straight up, slightly left, left edge of what underlies the Circus "Tomato". After another 2 lengths of the difficulty small, our route enter the two-flat under the edge big stone, punctuated by expansion bolts rare, that we get in an area with a small circus, brittle and large plates. We stray to the right, in increments, regupând to a python and a pipe on a small brâna. From here, after another 40 m up and right, get a platform here, which is the girdle of split - in the right - Eftimie Croitoru, and in the top and left of the Crack White and Crack Green. This first section of the route has a distance of approx. 200 m, difficulty II - III ... the Platform on which we find ourselves is at the same level in the wall, and in the left brânei on the which start Crack Red proper (crack).
To the right of the platform identify and belay station, with a piton with ring, and two expansion bolts.

The first length of chord (35 km) : As the passages required is and the hardest of the route (gr VI). Is carried out on the crack outlined above (not to the left!), that separates us a ramp of a few meters, and a plate of tiles. The entry in the rift is overhangnta, but we find the prize the good to the hands, and at the end of this passage is also the first insurance, a spit. Follows a passage longer free (5 m) with keys by hand, spreizuri and bavarian, punctuated by tufts of grass, on the right find and a spit and then a good ring. Get above, climbing is smooth and steady preponderant outlets being on the face of the right, the left side of the crack having pillows of grass earth metals and brittle. Another spit marks the entry into a chimney 8 m, easy, and at the end of his on the right the fourth spit marks and the end of the length, through a ramp from the grass to the left, where after a spur meeting bringing together, on a platform, generous, secured with 2 expansion bolts.

The second length of rope (55 m): Dihedron vertically from the departure is punctuated by 2 pitons good, followed by a crack thick we get a threshold, and the easy left find a piton with a ring. Get sills and steps fallow and slightly brittle, a few km until the wall becomes vertical and exposed. A plate compact guarded right-to-left of 2 cracks is barred to the output of a beetle. Reach the base surplombei on the crack on the left, protected by a spit, then cams, and the output of the beetle do it through the right side, the passage being protected by another spit. A moment of rest on the doorsteps leading up to the attack the crack vertical and exposed above, approx. 20 m, ensured by fixed solid and sufficient, among which 2 expansion bolts and pitons. This crack contains and the passage the most difficult to free the route (rotpunkt). Climbing is athletic, exposed and continue on this stretch, the most beautiful of the whole route. Exceeded this passage, a threshold of grass, a beetle continued of the 2 cracks provided with the pipes precedes the last 8 km up in the pool. They are performed bypassing the overhanging climbing on a crack-dihedral to the left, catching and then belay station with a small traverseu right. Regrouping recognize it immediately, as, in addition to a part of the rings of the original, marked by 2 expansion bolts, each belay station of the trail.

The third length of rope (37-m): During this lengths is carried out on the crack clear of the above ensured on the hands, facing slightly left, which acquires on the north aspect of dihedral-chimney. Climbing is spectacular, but have no particular difficulty (V). A ramp grassy oblique left leads us on the platform of the pool, chest of drawers and with a vision special.

The fourth length of rope (15 m): Is a length that passes a passage more exposed, with sandstone, as in top, provided by a pi and a spit, then traverseu on an area of crumbly, but punctuated by 3 peuri, to the right, where we find the bringing together, near the base of a dihedral-chimney.

The fifth length of rope (35 km): Over her is clear, on the dihedron already mentioned, the meeting, in order, a ramp, dotted with grass and a pi at departure, a beetle with access and by the right and the left, (the original route is left, but the right is more clean and compact, (a bavarian beautiful), and a dihedral with small platforms, the difficulty small, until we get out on the girdle of the sea before the chimney end, the place where we meet belay station.

Sixth the length of the chord (35 km): the Chimney end, presents no difficulty, deviates slightly to the left and end on the Girdle of the High Co?tilei, not far from the highest point of the Wall of the Valley, the White point located in the right of the Chimney's it follows a steep ascent.
Information source
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2014/09/readucerea-la-viata-traseului-soldat.html
Nagy Rudolf (Rudi)

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: At the Refuge Co?tila it goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Airline. We'll get 2 dells, we will keep a small crestuli?a until we get on The Prowl. If we get a chain I got too high, we need to go down 20 m. At the Stakeout we left on a mountain narrow and exposed what leads us in the Cirques of the Valley White. The Circus 1 is continuous path under the wall, by the Circus 2. At the end of the brânei, is a chimneyule?, which climbs up to a wider one, that, that leads to the Circus of Stone. We'll stop as soon as the path bends, in the right of a jgeab (and can identify in the left a small larch tree).
Retreat route: They get on the Girdle of the High Co?tilei to the intersection with the Ridge of the Valley White (the intersection marked and the Chimney's it follows a steep ascent, on which you can go out into the plateau) and falls down on the ridge by the Girdle of the Airline. Along the way we find more anchors mechanical red that we can use for the booster in case of tiredness or bad weather. Cross the Girdle of the Airline (what's throughout the her metal cable), It descends then into a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go into the other vâcel that in down with the help of chains. After ending the chains are down another 50 m, then take potecu?a on crestuli?a from the right (as we descend). Traverse right on a wider one, that (on top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a kind of valley with the chain and we arrive where we started, in the place of The Ambush. Of there in 20 minutes we are back at the Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

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Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

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Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

Users who climbed the route


Adi Min - 08.09.2018, Vara
- 08.09.2018
Jabon - 08.09.2018, Vara
- 08.09.2018
Andrei - 12.09.2014
- 12.09.2014
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Users who wish to climb the route


Razvan Hotea
Stefan
Iulia Darie

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: At the Refuge Co?tila it goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Airline. We'll get 2 dells, we will keep a small crestuli?a until we get on The Prowl. If we get a chain I got too high, we need to go down 20 m. At the Stakeout we left on a mountain narrow and exposed what leads us in the Cirques of the Valley White. The Circus 1 is continuous path under the wall, by the Circus 2. At the end of the brânei, is a chimneyule?, which climbs up to a wider one, that, that leads to the Circus of Stone. We'll stop as soon as the path bends, in the right of a jgeab (and can identify in the left a small larch tree).
Retreat route: They get on the Girdle of the High Co?tilei to the intersection with the Ridge of the Valley White (the intersection marked and the Chimney's it follows a steep ascent, on which you can go out into the plateau) and falls down on the ridge by the Girdle of the Airline. Along the way we find more anchors mechanical red that we can use for the booster in case of tiredness or bad weather. Cross the Girdle of the Airline (what's throughout the her metal cable), It descends then into a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go into the other vâcel that in down with the help of chains. After ending the chains are down another 50 m, then take potecu?a on crestuli?a from the right (as we descend). Traverse right on a wider one, that (on top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a kind of valley with the chain and we arrive where we started, in the place of The Ambush. Of there in 20 minutes we are back at the Refuge.

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Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

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