Today we celebrate 61 years since Umărul Padinei Popii (Turnul Mare al Dianei) first ascent

Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru 5B, 6b+/6c (5c+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 24.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 5c+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+/6c
Type: Classic route

 Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 10 pitches
Altitude: 1950 m
Height: 300 m
Climb duration: 6 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCrackGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Aurel Irimia, Emilian Cristea, Radu Constantin
Date: 01.07.1952
Repaired: Titus Gonţea, Vlad Grigore
Date: 2014
Story: Link
First winter ascent: Nicolae Jitaru, Ion Coleşiu, Nicolae Marian
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The path that leads to the scocul the Circus of the Rock (the map is located right underneath the Crack of the Red), as soon as it had come, horizontally, to the right, around the corner of the level, once you're in the ditch along the slope, we can identify the left-hand side, a small larch trees, and after that faces to the left, we avantam on a steep, sloped, above makes the course outlined. After approx. A 30 km we find the assurance, where it can regroup, or continue on to simultaneously escalate, while keeping the direction straight up, slightly left, to the left of the edge of what underlies the Circus of "Red". After a further 2 lengths by the difficulty to low, the trail enter the two-flat from below the edge the sea of rock, dotted by the expansion bolts are rare, we get in an area with a small circus, hard and brittle, and large plates. Turn to the right, on the steps, regupând a cam and pipe on a little brâna. Here, after more than 40 feet and right hand, get a platform here, which is a girdle of split - to the right In the number two, and the top and left of the Crack, White Crack Green. This is the first section of the trail has a distance of approx. The 200-m and class II - III to the Platform on which we find ourselves, it is at the same level as the wall, and to the left of the brânei from the beginning the Rift of the Red itself (the crack).
To the right of the platform, identifying and bringing together, with a cam ring, and two expansion bolts.

The first length of the rope (35 m) That the passages that imposed the tough of the track (gr. VI). It is carried out on a crack appears on top (not on the left!), we share wall-to-wall, a few feet away, and a plate-like floor tiles. The entrance to the rift, it's overhangnta, but we find the prize the good in the hands, and at the end of this passage, it is also the first insurance policy, a hospital. Next comes a passage to the long pool (5 m.) with the keys out of his hand, spreizuri and history, dotted with tufts of grass on the right of the figure, and a hospital, and then a ring. Move over, rock is fine grained, and of a balance of mainly the plugs being on the face of the right hand, the left-hand side of the crack having a pillow out of grass, earth, and friable and non-friable. A new hospital marks the beginning of a chimney-piece, 8-m, easily, and at the end of it, on the right, the fourth to mark the end of the length, with a ramp from the grass to the left, then up a spur to meet hang out on the platform, generous, secured with 2 expansion bolts.

Second, the length of a string (55 km): the two-flat of the vertical at the departure point of the 2 cams the best, followed by the crack of the thick, what we get is a rocker, and slightly left of the figure a pin with a ring. Get the sills and steps, grass, and slightly loose, a couple of metres until the wall becomes vertical, and is exposed to. A plate-like compact, tree-lined right-to-left, of the 2nd cracks, it is barred from the output of a beetle. Reach the base of surplombei the crack is on the left, protected by a spit, and then the hands, and the exit of the beetle go through the right-hand side, the passage being protected by a different hospital. For a moment, resting on the sill leading up to the attack the crack of the vertical and the display above it, approx. 20 m, which are secured by a fixed and solid enough, among them, 2 expansion bolts, and the cams are good. This crack contains-and the most difficult to the free end of the route (rotpunkt). Climbing is an athletic, out on the floor and continue on with this piece, as it is the most beautiful of the whole route. Beyond the passageway, a cut-off of the grass, the beetle continued for 2 crack provided with the pipe preceding the last 8 km up in the pool. They are performed bypassing the overhanging climbing on a crack-dihedral to the left side, hold and then belay station with a small traverseu to the right. The grouping can recognize it right away, and is on the outside part of the rings of the original, which is marked by 2 expansion bolts, as each of the pools from the trail.

A third length of rope (37-m): During the course of this length are carried out on the crack is clear of the above ensured that the hands, facing slightly left, taking on a city appearance of a dihedral-chimney. Climb is impressive, but with a great difficulty (See). A ramp on the green roof to the oblique left side, we drive on to the platform by the pool, comfortable and with a unique.

A fourth length of rope (15 m) Is the length of a passage is exposed, the sandstones, as in the above, provided by a pi and a hospital, and then traverseu on an area of crumbly, but the point of the 3-peuri, to the right, we're bringing together close to the base of a dihedral-chimney.

Fifth, the length of the rope (35 km): in the Course of them, it is not clear, the two-flat already mentioned, finding, the right, a steep hill, dotted with grass, and a pi on the go, a beetle with keyless entry and around to the right and to the left (the original is on the left, but the right side is more clean and compact (as a bavarian, beautiful), and a dihedral with a small platform, from the difficulty the little girl, until we get out on the girdle of the high pre-fire to the final, which is where we find the grouping.

Sixth, the length of the rope (35 km): the Chimney of the end, do not pose difficulties, it deviates slightly to the left and end on the Girdle of the High Co?tilei, not far from the highest point of the Wall of the Valley, the White point is located on the right of the Chimney of it follows a steep ascent.
Information source
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2014/09/readucerea-la-viata-traseului-soldat.html
Topo: Trasee alpine în Carpaţi  - Walter Kargel, Drumuri spre culmi - Walter Kargel
Nagy Rudolf (Rudi)

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila he goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20 feet. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. At the time a 1 is a continuous path under the wall, to the Circus 2. At the end of the brânei, it is a chimneyule?, can be reached by a wider one, that leads to the Circus of Rock. We'll stop as soon as the path bends, in front of a jgeab (being able to identify the left-hand side, a small larch tree).
Retreat route: Get the Girdle of the High Co?tilei to the intersection with the Ridge of the Valley of the White (the intersection is clearly marked and out of the Chimney of it follows a steep ascent, on which you can leave in the studio), and it is coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go in the other vâcel that we're going in with the help of a chain. After the chains are down to 50 km, and then take potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

Topo

Topo

Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

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Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

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Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

Users who climbed the route


Jabon - 08.09.2018, Vara
- 08.09.2018
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

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Razvan Hotea
Stefan
Iulia Darie

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila he goes on the trail of the Girdle of the Sky. We'll get 2 of the dells, we're going to have a little crestuli?a before we get To the Lookout. If it's a chain, I've got it too high, you need to get down to 20 feet. The Lurch to the left. on one mountain, narrow, and exposed, which will lead us into the Cirques of the Valley of the White. At the time a 1 is a continuous path under the wall, to the Circus 2. At the end of the brânei, it is a chimneyule?, can be reached by a wider one, that leads to the Circus of Rock. We'll stop as soon as the path bends, in front of a jgeab (being able to identify the left-hand side, a small larch tree).
Retreat route: Get the Girdle of the High Co?tilei to the intersection with the Ridge of the Valley of the White (the intersection is clearly marked and out of the Chimney of it follows a steep ascent, on which you can leave in the studio), and it is coming down off the ridge to the Girdle of the Sky. Along the way we find more of the anchors of the mechanical tomato that can be used to boost protection in case of tiredness or bad weather. Across the Girdle of the Overhead (that is, on the whole in a metal cord), It goes down and then up in a valley, which continues up to the end, turn left, go in the other vâcel that we're going in with the help of a chain. After the chains are down to 50 km, and then take potecu?a of the crestuli?a to the right (as we go down). Across the right, a wider one, that (off the top of the Wall Vâlcelului Rocky), we get a sort of a valley with a chain, and we're back where we started, in the place of lying In Wait. From there, in 20 minutes we are back at the shelter.

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Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

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