Today we celebrate 61 years since Vâlcelul cu Fereastră (de Jos) (Bucura II - Peretele Nordic) first ascent

Fagul Trăznit 4B, 7+ (5, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 12.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Classic route

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Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsSlabVerticalDihedralCrackFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mihai Pupeza, Dan Vasilescu, Cristian Andreescu, Vlad Petcu
Date: 1973


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: At about 20 meters on the left vâlcelului there is a wall in a compact area moves, and the little circus. The first 15m are carried out obliquely to the right, above a threshold, a beetle, and then a plate, then it's still a beetle, and regroup on a ledge a good.

LC2: Up directly on the front of the top of brânei, cut 2 small overhangs, and cross over 2 me. Climb up a dihedral, difficult, and cross again to the right and we'll get in the pool.

LC3: In the pool through a fissure, wide and upright, close to a beetle. We turn obliquely to the left, and to get another crack at the left side of the protruding edges. After the passage of a dihedral problem.

LC4: Follow a vertical crack (it can be done, and artificially) we can do a wider one, that of and a beetle, and in the end, a crack-dihedral, leads us on to a wider one, that wide-where the trail ends.
Information source
Buila Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970 - IPGG

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: Access is through the forest below the wall, aiming at the Vâlcelul of the Tower Stog?oarelor.
Retreat route: The withdrawal is made following the girdle to the right, across the amphitheater of rock and we get to the mountain pass of the Tower Stog?oarelor. Next go to the Scocul Yellow, that you can go down to town.

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Fagul Trăznit

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GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: Access is through the forest below the wall, aiming at the Vâlcelul of the Tower Stog?oarelor.
Retreat route: The withdrawal is made following the girdle to the right, across the amphitheater of rock and we get to the mountain pass of the Tower Stog?oarelor. Next go to the Scocul Yellow, that you can go down to town.

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