Traseul Amurgului 3B, 5b (4b/4b+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 4b/4b+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 5b
Type: Classic route

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Length: 6 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsCrackChimneyGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Tătulescu, Cezar Manea
Date: 1970
Repaired: Cezar Manea, Dan Vasilescu
Date: 2000


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: apply to the face, close to the vertical, with a small outlet and pitons, slightly obliquely to the left. He crosses the crack grassy going to the left of them on brâna stone, where belay station.

LC2: traverse 5 m to the left, then rises, 5 m perni?e grass, then catch the vertical dihedral, with overhang, which runs through the left, on the ridge with large blocks. You can view before the grass 10m and belay station inside the pipe.

LC3: It exceeds the flue after approx. 30 m, arriving at the portion that takes the appearance of two-sided open, with no outlet, so it crosses the 5m to the right, to where brâna belay station.

LC4: continues the transition to this threshold ground cover is still 5m, continuing it, with a succession of steps on subsequent 10m. He overcomes a crack open, with 2 pitons, regrupând the air, on the threshold of the grass.

LC5: the plate is tilted at 60 degrees leads us in the area of the plates the page in social networks that is blocked in overhang. To understand that crack vertically, which leads us to the belay station.

LC6: continued vertical crack and a small tube, while in Struga from the Ridge Stog?oarelor, almost Vf. Stog?oare 1.
Information source
Buila Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970 - IPGG

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: The route starts from Vâlcelul Bees, from the point where to mention the path on the left side, as we climb, two pitons on the wall (about 30 km route Brându?a Autumn).

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Traseul Amurgului

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Map



GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: The route starts from Vâlcelul Bees, from the point where to mention the path on the left side, as we climb, two pitons on the wall (about 30 km route Brându?a Autumn).

Equipment


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