Brânduşa de Toamnă 5A, 6a (4c/4c+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 05.06.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 4c/4c+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6a
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 6 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsVerticalCrackChimneyimpracticable/destroyed

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Doru Vasilescu
Date: 1970
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu, Cezar Manea, Ionescu
Date: 2000


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The of the 2020: the Length of the 3 has been modified: about 7 to 8 km from the chimney had disappeared. If you would like to get in the area give it a close inspection at the base, and I don't go without health insurance, mobile, pitons, and a hammer.



LC1: They cover up to 15 m, on rock, mixed with brâni?e of the grass, aiming for the ridge line, the last 5 being a plate-like grass, as the problem.
LC2: You travel for another 18 km on the chimneys and grass, after which it is use, a the crack wide, the what a scar diagonally on the wall. Roca's healthy, it allows for a scaling off, as the re-a stone in the chimney.

LC3: She keeps the rift is wide and down to 8 m, followed by a chimney, overhangnt 15-I'm really washed out (approx 7-8m of it is gone). 4 km after the exit of the chimney, a number of large rocks blocking the fissure, and we were obliged to climb up the front of the left hand, with the help of the hands a bit unsteady, we run it through a passage to the left, to a wider one, that of grass, where it pooled.

LC4: The use of a rift, pointing to the right, and then a series of vertical obstacles, but with the plugs the best we get is a pool on the front.

LC5: Scroll through the vertical face of the tower, with the lower speed moves, but it also makes a traverseu of 4 feet to the left, in the pool.

LC6: on the Last 30 km of the route are on the face side close to the vertical, while avoiding the areas of the overhangte in the little traversee, arriving at the ridge, and on Mt. Stog?oare 1.
Information source
Buila Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970 - IPGG

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: The trail starts at the base of the wall Stog?oare 1, near the entrance to the Vâlcelul of the Bees, which separates the Stog?oare 1 Stog?oare 2.
Retreat route: The descent is made and continuing on the Crest of the Stog?oarelor to the right for 30 feet, then the mountain pass at the end Vâlcelul of the Bees, and down on the opposite side from the trail, and then down to the tunnel (on the right).

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Brânduşa de Toamnă

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GPS: N 45° 16' 26.1" E 24° 07' 35.5"    
Access route: The trail starts at the base of the wall Stog?oare 1, near the entrance to the Vâlcelul of the Bees, which separates the Stog?oare 1 Stog?oare 2.
Retreat route: The descent is made and continuing on the Crest of the Stog?oarelor to the right for 30 feet, then the mountain pass at the end Vâlcelul of the Bees, and down on the opposite side from the trail, and then down to the tunnel (on the right).

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