Today we celebrate 61 years since Vâlcelul cu Fereastră (de Jos) (Bucura II - Peretele Nordic) first ascent

Creasta de Sus 3A, 5
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3A
Mandatory grade: 5
Rotpunkt grade: 5
Type: Classic route

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Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsWooden pegsCams/NutsOverhangRidgeCrackPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Tătulescu, Iosif Gheţie, Nicolae Anghelide
Date: 1969


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: At the top of the orchard with Birch performed her campaign to socket (5m) directed by 2 parallel cracks, which are attached 3 pitons and wedge. Following this passage, the vertical (8m), we participate in the escalation of some free lespezi vertical to the basis surplombe. Exceeding this overhang directly using python, we ca?aram cracks on the ceiling which we pass directly. The cracks continue to rearrange. 35m, 5 class.

LC 2: Follow cracks from the wall outlet is good that after about 15 km we condue to the ridge is marked with pine trees. The belay station is made on the shoulder of the ridge. 15m, 4 class, without insurance of fixed assets.

LC 3,4,5: Should the ridge on the socket is good, with regrupari pine. For length 4 it is noted that cracks harder about 10 m, which passes through the climb for free. Difficulties length ranges from degree 2 and 4. The trail ends at the top Claii Curves.
Information source
Buila Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970 - IPGG

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: He climbs on a footpath, near the Sentry Key, it goes into the saddle, where the Ridge begins Fotoreporterului, passes it, then on the left wall. We pass by a locomotive and Aven (Duct), down the path, then make left on vâlcel pamântos that will lead us to the Garden with Birch trees.

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Map



GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: He climbs on a footpath, near the Sentry Key, it goes into the saddle, where the Ridge begins Fotoreporterului, passes it, then on the left wall. We pass by a locomotive and Aven (Duct), down the path, then make left on vâlcel pamântos that will lead us to the Garden with Birch trees.

Equipment


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