Hornul Surpat 4B, 6a (5b, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5b
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6a
Type: Classic route

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Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsVerticalChimneyGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Săndulescu, Gheorghe Peteu
Date: 1970


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: is the chimney through ramonaj one well over about 40m. It bundles on the platform very widely in the chimney on the left side. 30 m, 6 class.

LC 2: the Ascent is via ramonaj inside the pipe at the beginning, and then the outside because the top is narrow. She bundles brâna on grass. Roca is a solid, length 30-35m class 6+.

LC 3: start with a few of steps, more difficult, proceeds split with the rock very loose and small surplombe grass. Pitoanele are more rare. It includes a dihedral angle, on the plate. 30-35m class 6+.

LC 4: Starts with traversu left on the plate at an angle and with no outlet, which is included at the beginning 2 pitons and a length of about 10m. Then follows one aisle to the left, about 5m, on which are mounted 2 pitons. Hike to the map without pitons on some sockets, the arms are very thin and difficult because of the slope and the lack of sockets feet. After the last traverseu will crack around 18m, easy overhangnta, where the ascent is done using pitonslor. The output of this crack is in an area of loose. It bundles on the platform of the tall grass. 35m, 6 class.

LC 5 Is the latest General with the length from Crest Fororeporterului that will be cracked easily and very few overhangnta pitons. 35, class 5

Information source
Buila Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970 - IPGG

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: He climbs on a footpath, near the Sentry Key, it goes into the saddle, where the Ridge begins Fotoreporterului, passes it, then on the left wall. We will get soon at the engine, which has Aven.
Retreat route: He crosses the Garden with Birch trees, is on the right side of him, and he descends to vâlcelul înierbat the end. Then, on the path we reach the beginning of the route.

Topo

Topo

Hornul Surpat

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Map



GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: He climbs on a footpath, near the Sentry Key, it goes into the saddle, where the Ridge begins Fotoreporterului, passes it, then on the left wall. We will get soon at the engine, which has Aven.
Retreat route: He crosses the Garden with Birch trees, is on the right side of him, and he descends to vâlcelul înierbat the end. Then, on the path we reach the beginning of the route.

Equipment


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