Today we celebrate Alexandru Lungan, who reached the beautiful age of 36 years. Happy birthday!. 9 yeas ago, Dan Lubenescu was leaving us.

Surplombele Livezii cu Mesteceni 5B, 6b+/6c (5c, A0)
5,00/5 (1 vote)




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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 31.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+/6c
Type: Classic route

 Intrare traseu 
Length: 6 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangCrackGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Tătulescu, Gheorghe Peteu, Mircea Săndulescu
Date: 1970
Repaired: Cristi Iacob
Date: 2010


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: Go on a dihedral with the plugs leaking, what is he climbing up in the sprai?uri. Re one to a python. after 30 m, a wider one, that the sea of grass.

LC2-Is the climb up a dihedral, as at the spai?uri, and having clean enough. The output of the girdle of the pot at the end of the length is a bit more problematic in the fall when the grass is cut. Grouped on the right-hand side, a wider one, that when we have a patch, 2 expansion bolts.

LC3: Get the right traverseu, but it's not until the very end, where you can see it in the distance, some cams (that was the original line in the pitonslor is not great). We're coming up on one side down-cut by the crack, where we see a hospital close to the end of it. In the event that we have half ropes (or a piece of string, but it loops very, very long), I'll skip over the belay station of the mid-term review, which is only 20m away. Keep going up under the beetle, which has no tremor and it may be contrived (I'm clean enough). Reform on a wider one, that small, grass -, after 45m.

LC4: Consists of 2 flats, we climb up to the sprai?. Your insurance is sufficient. The first dihedral is easy overhangnt, the second one is a face-down, and washed away the wall on the left. Most of the time they go out on the land more easily on the right side of the second dihedral. At the end of the second dihedral traverse left, up the grouping formed by a spit, and a ball python, on the skirts of the grass.

LC5: Traverse right, climb a small dihedral, and then the difficulties of the lower and the insurance (as well as the number and the quality). Regroup at the base of the Grove of Birch trees, with a tree of their choice. At the pool is better to go for a length of rope out of the grass right up to the top of the wall.
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2014/08/04/traseul-surplombele-livezii-cu-mesteceni-buila-vanturarita/
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/p/schite-trasee-alpinism.html
Liviu Enache - Topo 1

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: V1. In the Cabin, the Key I left on the bookmark that goes in the Keyhole, and I turned a corner on the right after 10 minutes, the path strewn with the detritus that we pass the first walls of the lower meet the right one. We are leaving behind the route of the Chimney is Frozen and the turn left to the walls of the back.

The v-2. From Canton, go for the Sentry Key. At the end of it (before we get back in the saddle), a left-hand turn on to a clearing at the base of a pere?el. The path will lead us out beneath the Wall of the Orchard, with the trees, and then to the left, we continue towards the Big Downhill.
Retreat route: It goes all the way down to the Orchard, with the trees, take the right-hand side of it and down to a valley pamântos. It is therefore up to the small saddle where you can take the photographer's Ridge, and where is the end of the Sentinel Key.

Topo

Topo

Surplombele Livezii cu Mesteceni

Pictures


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Adrian Scurtu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Bogdan Boja - 28.08.2012

Map



GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: V1. In the Cabin, the Key I left on the bookmark that goes in the Keyhole, and I turned a corner on the right after 10 minutes, the path strewn with the detritus that we pass the first walls of the lower meet the right one. We are leaving behind the route of the Chimney is Frozen and the turn left to the walls of the back.

The v-2. From Canton, go for the Sentry Key. At the end of it (before we get back in the saddle), a left-hand turn on to a clearing at the base of a pere?el. The path will lead us out beneath the Wall of the Orchard, with the trees, and then to the left, we continue towards the Big Downhill.
Retreat route: It goes all the way down to the Orchard, with the trees, take the right-hand side of it and down to a valley pamântos. It is therefore up to the small saddle where you can take the photographer's Ridge, and where is the end of the Sentinel Key.

Equipment


Intrare traseu

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