23 a Opta 4B, 6+/7- (6, A0)
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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (3)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+/7-
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsSlabVerticalCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Vlad Petcu
Date: 1972
Repaired: Dan Vasilescu, Cezar Manea
Date: 2000


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: Turn diagonally right on a crack clear and full of greenery. The rock is not compact, looks sandblasted. Good luck that is well secured. We regrouped at a spit and a python, even when the trail seems to be right after a corner. In reality the pool set up is right around the corner, the two expansion bolts with maion quickly.

LC2: Is continues a bit right after which start up on a crack clear. The crack is beautiful movements, but the rock is not very adherent. The reason of the lack of adhesion is a species of moss white, very fine. Regrouping is a wider one, that chest of drawers, 2 expansion bolts. Here we go balaureala.

LC3: continue up a wider one, that of grass, after I cut up one of the few cams that I found them hidden among the grass. The belay station was done 2 spit-ups removed, an improvisation.

LC4: Go up on a chimneyule? assured ok, and I went out in an area of grass. I was in the Orchard with Birch trees. From here we crossed 2 lengths through the grass and easy terrain.
Information source
Nomenclatorul traseelor
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2014/08/08/traseul-23-august-masivul-buila-vanturarita/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: From Canton, go to the Sentry Key. Near the end of it (until we get in the saddle), we left on a clearing on the basis of a pere?el. The trail will take us out under the Wall of the Birch trees Orchard.
Retreat route: It goes until the end of the Birch trees Orchard, take the right-hand side of it and down on a valley pamântos (it goes back to the small saddle where it leaves the photographer's Ridge and where it ends the Sentinel of the Key). I went down through the back of the wall, on a valley on the looming clear a path. At the end of the trail we took a right on the detritus that enter the woods, only to leave you covered in a moss nice and fluffy. When I got on the thread of the river I caught marking that in the 10 minutes it took us to the Cottage Key.

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



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Users who climbed the route


Razvan Hotea - 27.07.2015, Vara
- 27.07.2015

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Bogdan Boja - 28.08.2012

Map



GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: From Canton, go to the Sentry Key. Near the end of it (until we get in the saddle), we left on a clearing on the basis of a pere?el. The trail will take us out under the Wall of the Birch trees Orchard.
Retreat route: It goes until the end of the Birch trees Orchard, take the right-hand side of it and down on a valley pamântos (it goes back to the small saddle where it leaves the photographer's Ridge and where it ends the Sentinel of the Key). I went down through the back of the wall, on a valley on the looming clear a path. At the end of the trail we took a right on the detritus that enter the woods, only to leave you covered in a moss nice and fluffy. When I got on the thread of the river I caught marking that in the 10 minutes it took us to the Cottage Key.

Equipment


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