Pasărea Phoenix (IPGG 3) 6A, 6c/6c+ (6a, A1)
5,00/5 (2 votes)




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  • Diaries/Climbs (12)
  • Video (1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 20.11.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6c/6c+
Type: Classic route

 Pasărea Phoenix (IPGG 3) 
Length: 11 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsVerticalOverhangCrackRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Iosif Gheţie, Nicolae Tătulescu, Alexandru Bulgăr
Date: 1970
Repaired: Lucian Verigeanu, Frank Schobel, Constantin Braneci
Date: 2000


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: Start on the shelf of a rock, crumbly, and after a few metres, follow a crack to the clear, which consists of a big slab of rock. Crack in vertical surplombeaza at the end and it goes live, and after that it gets a brâni?a to the grass, where it is the bringing together of the normal. With the half ropes of 60 m and continue on to a vertical crack on the left side, in front of the pool which is at the end surplombeaza it. The output is the prize huge, but easily friable, and, after 60m, lying get in the pool, on a wider one, that, on the basis of a face.

LC2: Turn off the face of the cliff and traverse left to a dihedral that starts off easy overhangt (step VIII) and the above is a chimney stack. The chimney is done right (and there is a pool) and to an area light and a bit crumbly, keep to the right at a wider one, that the great (from this point, it may come out of the wall on the brâna in the orchard).

LC3: it Starts off a little dihedral, traverse right under the beetle until it falls off of a dihedral long, slightly slanting left, which leads to the bringing together under a beetle. The hospital is located, and a maion the rapid descent (in case you need it). It's length is spectacular.

LC4: Run it directly on the beetle, and then continue on to a chimney, facing left, up to her face, where she takes up a fisurica by the pool.

LC5: Traverseu the right overhangt up to a vertical crack that leads to a pool in a small cave. Long, short, traverseul it is difficult.

LC6: The cave traverseu the left, the long-term, under the overhanging climbing made up the cave, and nearly horizontal at first, then slightly upward, to a chimneyule? a little brittle, after that you turn right at the pool which is a wider one, that potting is located within an area with a few trees. Length-long, 55 meters.

LC7: A chimney, hits the upright, which is about 15-20m leaving it to the right in order to get to the tree line, where the trail ends close to the tip of the Claii Time.
Information source
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/03/buila-vanturarita-tr-pasarea-phoenix-6a.html
Vlad Condratov - http://vladcondratov.blogspot.ro/2009/07/buila-vanturarita-taramul-pasarii.html
Liviu Enache - Topo 1

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: At the cottage, the Key to cross the stream and walk on the path marked blue triangle. In the scene where he opens up a valley to the right to leave the marked path and walk up to the wall, with the right of the photographer's Ridge. The path will lead us out beneath the Wall of the Orchard, with the trees, and then to the left, we continue towards the Big Downhill. The trail is marked with red paint on the base.
Retreat route: We go down along the ridge. On the right of the Grove of Birch trees down a valley pamântos. It is therefore up to the small saddle where you can take the photographer's Ridge, and where is the end of the Sentinel Key.

Topo

Topo

Pasărea Phoenix (IPGG 3)

Pictures


Pasărea Phoenix (IPGG 3)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Pasărea Phoenix (IPGG 3)

Users who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 06.09.2019, Vara
- 06.09.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 21.07.2018
- 21.07.2018un traseu bine asigurat, merge si pe ploaie(esti ferit de suprlumba mare pana la lungimea a 8-a inclusiv)

Users who wish to climb the route


Adrian Scurtu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Silvia Murgescu - 23.08.2010

Map



GPS: N 45° 16' 07.6" E 24° 07' 21.3"    
Access route: At the cottage, the Key to cross the stream and walk on the path marked blue triangle. In the scene where he opens up a valley to the right to leave the marked path and walk up to the wall, with the right of the photographer's Ridge. The path will lead us out beneath the Wall of the Orchard, with the trees, and then to the left, we continue towards the Big Downhill. The trail is marked with red paint on the base.
Retreat route: We go down along the ridge. On the right of the Grove of Birch trees down a valley pamântos. It is therefore up to the small saddle where you can take the photographer's Ridge, and where is the end of the Sentinel Key.

Equipment


Pasărea Phoenix (IPGG 3)

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