On 19.10.1933 Matei Schenn was born.

Hornul Dezgheţat 3B, 6a (5c, A0)
5,00/5 (1 vote)

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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Ad mini la data de 30.03.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6a
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Rupi 
Length: 3 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangCrackChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Vlad Petcu, Csaba Harmath
Date: 1974
Repaired: Frank Schobel, Lucian Verigeanu
Date: 2000

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 Goes on to a dihedral. After about 3 km we leave it for you to engage in on the front on the left that offers a rock climbing much easier. We'll be back after 10 km at the rift, how it can be overcome in the success-or with the key out of my hand. Re 25 in a cave. With line of 60m, and the insurance, the longer you can go in and out on the next length.

LC2 on The right side is the abbot of the Chimney is Frozen, but we work our way up towards the ceiling high above. To the right of us show up at some point, some expansion bolts on one side. That is the Alpinet, and we continue, but the nature of the fire. We are all in the ceiling will stay low. We will start the traverseul the ramonaj, using a couple of tiny plugs on the legs. Make sure spitul, and then through the front of a small beetle. After the difficulty of the route, it becomes elementary. Grouped in a tree, with cords.

LC3 Is continuously on the easy terrain up to the ridge.
Information source
Buila Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970 - IPGG
Poză - Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 13.2" E 24° 07' 20.2"    
Retreat route: Down the trail to the Ridge of the Sentinel.


Sursă: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Sursă: Rupi

Users who climbed the route

Lucian Apostu - 04.09.2019
- 04.09.2019Am legat Lc2 cu Lc3 cu o coarda de 60m

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GPS: N 45° 16' 13.2" E 24° 07' 20.2"    
Retreat route: Down the trail to the Ridge of the Sentinel.


Sursă: Rupi