Today we celebrate Alexandru Lungan, who reached the beautiful age of 36 years. Happy birthday!. 9 yeas ago, Dan Lubenescu was leaving us.

Traseul Frontal (Creasta Nord-Estică) 4A, 6c/6c+ (5c, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 15.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 15.03.2016

General characteristics

Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6c/6c+
Type: Classic route

Length: 3 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


PitonsMechanical anchorsVerticalCrackFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Doru Vasilescu, Alexandru Bulgăr
Date: 18-19.09.1970
Repaired: Frank Schobel, Lucian Verigeanu
Date: 2000

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1, 2: At the entrance there is a grotto wide, whose ceiling is the first obstacle (in the past, first with a wooden wedge). Should a vertical wall 4 m, which lead us to a small threshold, where to catch the narrow crack that we ca?aram about 20m. It passes obliquely to the left, and then we use small rapids where we can regroup mediator. We pass further cracks oblique to the left, after 12m to get on the small platform, with a large spruce.

LC3: catch the steam train easily overhangnt 10m, then cracks oblique to the right, with small riffles grass that leads us to the redistribution of good, next to the juniper Bush.

LC4, 5: Difficulties scare that climbing allows free light and air, taking care that the stone becomes very loose, in the area of the ridge. It includes one big birch, where we ca?aram to do on the ridge about 20m.
Information source
Buila Vînturariţa - Premiere alpine 1970 - IPGG

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 16' 13.2" E 24° 07' 20.2"    



Traseul Frontal (Creasta Nord-Estică)



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Wilhelm Martini - 10.09.1984, Vara
- 10.09.1984

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GPS: N 45° 16' 13.2" E 24° 07' 20.2"