Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe 5A, (4c/4c+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 29.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 28.04.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 4c/4c+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

 Sursă poză: Mihai Sava 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N-E
Length: 8 pitches
Altitude: 1950 m
Height: 250 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


PitonsCams/NutsChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Emilian Cristea
Date: 04.08.1946
Second ascent (First repeat): Ionel Coman
Date: 11.08.1946

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Above my Waist with Juniper trees (Circus of the 3rd century), a gash right across the deep, tight between the Tip of the Spire and the Wall of the Valley White, climbs on a route interrupted by numerous obstacles moves and through a few caves, in the mountain pass of the Spur, and further, at the peak. The route was started and opened about 2/3 by Ionel Coman, being finished by Niculae Baticu and Emilian Cristea.

The first L. C. begins on the Girdle with Juniper trees, from a point located approx. 25 m to the left the Fissure of the Spur (as you look towards the Wall of the Valley of the White). Escalate follows the first face crumbly and a threshold narrow, which lead to the right, under a passage in the dihedral.

2 L. C. is carried out on a face flushed, which requires a went very carefully over the passage overhangnt and grassy why it forms in the upper part. From here, the route is directing diagonally to the left, up to the base of the wall what is rolls vertically from the Top of the Spur and of which the rock presents a very characteristic shade rusty.

A step rocky (3 L. C.), and then a girdle narrow drive to the right, at the base of the Crack of the Spur.

The next portion (to the 4th L. C.) it escalates to chord double, up to the height of a raw grote barred on the upper side of a beetle difficult.

From this point (5-L. C.) go completely on the sides, climbing a new passage overhangnt, but with outlets solid, and through a chimney the vertical reach a second cave, lying on this path of exceptional roughness.

Further, we directly and with the help of scari?elor (6th L. C.) over a new beetle, after which we perform a ramonaj difficult by the chimney immediately following. At the end of its break, through a window carved into the stone, in a cave deep inside that the out, a few meters above, on a porch a narrow, located in a position very air.

The route of the 7th L. C., which leaves on the left a few small savage, bearing the name "The Towers". On the porch above-mentioned, ascending obliquely to the right, we arrive at the base of a wall, at the edge of which we distinguish a chimney broad and covered with vegetation.

We are in the area called ,,the Chimney of the Green". Climbing this obstacle (8-L. C.) ends in a grotto, a height unusual in the upper area of the steep slope.

After we climb a few metres on one of the inner walls of the cave (9-L. C.), execute a crossing to the right, to the point where a new ,,window" allows us to get back on the direct line of the route.

Further (10-to L. C.), after the climb with the help of 2-3 pitons a wall of approx. 20 m, out in the mountain pass of the Spur.

The last passage (11 L. C.) leading to the peak presents a height of 20 m and follow a face less difficult, but very exposed.

From the peak back in Strunga Spur through a booster 20 m. From here we continue the descent be on the face of the south-west of the Spur, through a series of 5 boosts, either by following the slopes of the fallow and of a very high propensity that lead us at the point from which, crossing to the left (way down) the Edge of the Spur, we reach the Girdle with Juniper trees (Circus of the 3rd).
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    



Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe


Sursă poză: Mihai Sava

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Sursă poză: Mihai Sava

Users who climbed the route

Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980
- 01.08.1980

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GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"    


Sursă poză: Mihai Sava