Today we celebrate 73 years since Fisura Sudică (Colţul Mălinului) first ascent.  

Wall BardosuluiPeretele Bardosului (Wall Bardosului)






  • Description and routes

General characteristics

  

Description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The portion that comprises tracks 7 to 19 is also known as the cliff of the "Chimney".
The area with the trails 46-50 is known commonly as cliff "At the spring".

The route "Access" has two variants at the entrance, the left one being listed with 6-
The route STR8 Line ends the current in R1 of the "Sentinel of the Neck of Hell" (it is a common variant of input longer supported in Sentinel), but it can use and a top intermediary that presents the possibility booster.

State of the paths classical is bad.

"The Big face" is grassy and without repetition from before the 90s;
the key step of the first length of the "Horn High" is very poorly protected (because of the failure wedges of wood and pipes recessed is 6+ required) but shows good potential for the friend-sites. The last lengths are slightly friable;
"Direct Ceilings" requires demountable and presents a spreader broke in the ceiling of the 2;
TWENTIETH Anniversary presents the pitons with ears very small in not falling than carabiners thin (like the Russian titan);
The sentinel requires caution on the rings weaknesses of lengths 4-5 and attention in the pools of bad;
The "army" presents passages degraded and belay station unstable;
"Overhanging climbing to the Throat of Hell" is severely affected in the first 3 lengths due to moisture;
"The corner of Lonely" is poorly protected in parts.
Information source
Florin Kobe Mastacan - Topo Cheile Bicazului - http://www.fralpinism.ro/topo/bicaz.pdf
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/faleza-7-noiembrie/
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/faleza-hornul-mare/
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/gatul-iadului/
Stone: limestone
Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Facelift (Facelift)10+40 m0     Sport climbing00
2.Vertical (Vertical)830 m0     Sport climbing00
3.Autobiografie (Autobiography)10/10+20 m0     Sport climbing00
4.Traseul 7 Noiembrie (On The 7 November) With description With topo4A3 pitches3     Technical rock climbing20
5.Traseul Gheorghe Spătaru (The Route George Spataru)4A3 pitches3     Technical rock climbing00
6.Faţa Mare (The Big Face) With description With topo5A9 pitches1     Technical rock climbing00
7.Acces (Access)6-/618 m0     Sport climbing00
8.El Dorado (El Dorado)818 m0     Sport climbing00
9.Desperado (Desperado)818 m0     Sport climbing00
10.T-Rex (T-Rex)822 m0     Sport climbing00
11.Denko (Denko)8-/818 m0     Sport climbing00
12.Kuss-Kuss (Kuss-Kuss)8+18 m0     Sport climbing00
13.Kaua-Kaua (Kaua'i-Kaua'i)8/8+18 m0     Sport climbing00
14.Freestyler (Freestyler)9/9+18 m0     Sport climbing00
15.Hornul Mare (Chimney Great) 5 star route With description With topo5B6 pitches4     Technical rock climbing21
16.Pino (Pino)7+/8-20 m0     Sport climbing00
17.Pinocchio (Pinocchio)7/7+20 m0     Sport climbing00
18.Pinball (Pinball)9/9+20 m0     Sport climbing00
19.Gepetto (Geppetto)8-/820 m0     Sport climbing00
20.Traseul Nenumit (The Trail Unnamed)6A10 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
21.Traseul A XX-a Aniversare (The route OF the TWENTIETH Anniversary) With topo With picture6A10 pitches3     Technical rock climbing20
22.Traseul Tavanelor (The Route Ceilings) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture6B10 pitches5     Technical rock climbing30
23.Santinela de la Gâtul Iadului (The sentry at the Neck of Hell) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture6A7 pitches5     Technical rock climbing81
24.STR8 Line (STR8 Line) With picture6+1 pitches5     Sport climbing00
25.The Lizard (The Lizard) With description With picture6A7 pitches0     Technical rock climbing40
26.Traseul Armata (Route Army) 5 star route With topo With picture6B10 pitches5     Technical rock climbing20
27.Papaligal (Papaligal)7-30 m0     Sport climbing20
28.7 Păcate (7 Sins)9+10 m0     Sport climbing00
29.Direct Action (Direct Action)10-/1020 m0     Sport climbing00
30.Killer Edge (Killer Edge)10-25 m0     Sport climbing00
31.Surplomba de la Gâtul Iadului (Overhanging climbing to the Throat of Hell) With topo6A8 pitches2     Technical rock climbing00
32.Zeitgeist (Spiritul Timpului) (The Zeitgeist (Spirit Of The Time)) 5 star route With topoED11 pitches0     Aid10
33.Stamate (Stamate)10-/1018 m0     Sport climbing00
34.Vaja Con Dios (Vaja Con Dios)9+18 m0     Sport climbing00
35.Time Is Everything (Time Is Everything)7/7+18 m0     Sport climbing00
36.Metro (Metro)820 m0     Sport climbing00
37.Traseul Finala '64 (The Route Of The Final Of '64) With description With topo5B4 pitches3     Technical rock climbing40
38.Take a Break (Take a Break)918 m0     Sport climbing00
39.Take a Nap (Take a Nap)9-18 m0     Sport climbing00
40.Spiderman (Spiderman)9/9+18 m0     Sport climbing00
41.Merda (Merda)7/7+18 m0     Sport climbing00
42.Jumbo (Jumbo)8+20 m0     Sport climbing00
43.Take Off (Take Off)8+20 m0     Sport climbing00
44.Take a Beer (Take a Beer)8+20 m0     Sport climbing00
45.Latin Express (Latin Express)820 m0     Sport climbing00
46.Hopa Sus (Oops Up)8-/820 m0     Sport climbing00
47.Acid Galactic (Acid Galactic)10-/1014 m0     Sport climbing00
48.Styks (Styks)7-12 m0     Sport climbing00
49.Du-ti Free (Get your Free)9/9+12 m0     Sport climbing00
50.Traseul Colţul Singuratic (The Route Corner Lonely) With topo5B9 pitches3     Technical rock climbing10
51.Creasta Ascunsă (Ridge Hidden)5B11 pitches0     Technical rock climbing10

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: After finishing the route the classic, it follows the ridge to the left and finally get on a lane with debris. Followed downward it reaches the right of the first switchbacks, at about 100 m from the onset of the route "7 November"

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

Route distribution

Pictures

alt

Map

Retreat route: After finishing the route the classic, it follows the ridge to the left and finally get on a lane with debris. Followed downward it reaches the right of the first switchbacks, at about 100 m from the onset of the route "7 November"