Today we celebrate 87 years since Spălătura Văii Seci (Văi şi brâne) first ascent

Wall BardosuluiPeretele Bardosului (Wall Bardosului)






  • Description and routes
  • Timeline
  • Weather

General characteristics


  

Description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The portion that comprises tracks 7 to 19 is also known as the cliff of the "Chimney".
The area with the trails 46-50 is known commonly as cliff "At the spring".

The route "Access" has two variants at the entrance, the left one being listed with 6-
The route STR8 Line ends the current in R1 of the "Sentinel of the Neck of Hell" (it is a common variant of input longer supported in Sentinel), but it can use and a top intermediary that presents the possibility booster.

State of the paths classical is bad.

"The Big face" is grassy and without repetition from before the 90s;
the key step of the first length of the "Horn High" is very poorly protected (because of the failure wedges of wood and pipes recessed is 6+ required) but shows good potential for the friend-sites. The last lengths are slightly friable;
"Direct Ceilings" requires demountable and presents a spreader broke in the ceiling of the 2;
TWENTIETH Anniversary presents the pitons with ears very small in not falling than carabiners thin (like the Russian titan);
The sentinel requires caution on the rings weaknesses of lengths 4-5 and attention in the pools of bad;
The "army" presents passages degraded and belay station unstable;
"Overhanging climbing to the Throat of Hell" is severely affected in the first 3 lengths due to moisture;
"The corner of Lonely" is poorly protected in parts.
Information source
Florin Kobe Mastacan - Topo Cheile Bicazului - http://www.fralpinism.ro/topo/bicaz.pdf
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/faleza-7-noiembrie/
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/faleza-hornul-mare/
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/gatul-iadului/





Stone: limestone

Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Facelift10+40 m0     Sport climbing00
2.Vertical830 m0     Sport climbing00
3.Autobiografie10/10+20 m0     Sport climbing00
4.Traseul 7 Noiembrie With description With topo4A, 7/7+ (A1)3 pitches3     Classic route20
5.Traseul Gheorghe Spătaru4A3 pitches3     Classic route00
6.Faţa Mare With description With topo5A, (A2)9 pitches1     Classic route00
7.Acces6-/618 m0     Sport climbing00
8.El Dorado818 m0     Sport climbing00
9.Desperado818 m0     Sport climbing00
10.T-Rex822 m0     Sport climbing00
11.Denko8-/818 m0     Sport climbing00
12.Kuss-Kuss8+18 m0     Sport climbing00
13.Kaua-Kaua8/8+18 m0     Sport climbing00
14.Freestyler9/9+18 m0     Sport climbing00
15.Hornul Mare 5 star route With description With topo With picture5B, 7/7+ (A1)6 pitches4     Classic route21
16.Pino7+/8-20 m0     Sport climbing00
17.Pinocchio7/7+20 m0     Sport climbing00
18.Pinball9/9+20 m0     Sport climbing00
19.Gepetto8-/820 m0     Sport climbing00
20.Traseul Nenumit6A10 pitches0     Classic route00
21.Traseul A XX-a Aniversare With topo With picture6A, 8/8+ (A2/A3)10 pitches3     Classic route20
22.Traseul Tavanelor 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video6B, (A4)10 pitches5     Classic route30
23.Santinela de la Gâtul Iadului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video6A, (A2/A3)7 pitches5     Classic route91
24.STR8 Line With picture6+1 pitches5     Sport climbing00
25.The Lizard With description With picture6A, (7/7+, A1)7 pitches0     Classic route40
26.Traseul Armata 5 star route With topo With picture6B, (A2)10 pitches5     Classic route20
27.Papaligal7-30 m0     Sport climbing20
28.7 Păcate9+10 m0     Sport climbing00
29.Direct Action10-/1020 m0     Sport climbing00
30.Killer Edge10-25 m0     Sport climbing00
31.Surplomba de la Gâtul Iadului With topo6A, 9- (A2/A3)8 pitches2     Classic route00
32.Zeitgeist (Spiritul Timpului) 5 star route With description With topoED+, A4+11 pitches0     Aid10
33.Stamate10-/1018 m0     Sport climbing00
34.Vaja Con Dios9+18 m0     Sport climbing00
35.Time Is Everything7/7+18 m0     Sport climbing00
36.Metro820 m0     Sport climbing00
37.Traseul Finala '64 With description With topo With video5B, 7+ (A1/A2)4 pitches3     Classic route40
38.Take a Break918 m0     Sport climbing00
39.Take a Nap9-18 m0     Sport climbing00
40.Spiderman9/9+18 m0     Sport climbing00
41.Merda7/7+18 m0     Sport climbing00
42.Jumbo8+20 m0     Sport climbing00
43.Take Off8+20 m0     Sport climbing00
44.Take a Beer8+20 m0     Sport climbing00
45.Latin Express820 m0     Sport climbing00
46.Hopa Sus8-/820 m0     Sport climbing00
47.Acid Galactic10-/1014 m0     Sport climbing00
48.Styks7-12 m0     Sport climbing00
49.Du-ti Free9/9+12 m0     Sport climbing00
50.Traseul Colţul Singuratic With topo5B, (A1)9 pitches3     Classic route10
51.Creasta Ascunsă5B11 pitches0     Classic route10

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: After finishing the route the classic, it follows the ridge to the left and finally get on a lane with debris. Followed downward it reaches the right of the first switchbacks, at about 100 m from the onset of the route "7 November"

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc



Route distribution


Traseu clasic
Traseu clasic
Traseu clasic
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

Acces 6-/6

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

T-Rex 8

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă

Denko 8-/8

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

Freestyler 9/9+

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Pino 7+/8-

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă
Escaladă

Gepetto 8-/8

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

Styks 7-

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Du-ti Free 9/9+

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Facelift 10+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Vertical 8

Date: 2001
First ascent: Eduard Prosza
Escaladă

Autobiografie 10/10+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Pinball 9/9+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă
Escaladă

Stamate 10-/10

Date: 2001
First ascent: Cristi Simion
Escaladă
Escaladă

Spiderman 9/9+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Jumbo 8+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Take a Beer 8+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

7 Păcate 9+

Date: 2002
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă
Escaladă
Traseu clasic

The Lizard 6A, (7/7+, A1)

Date: 28.04.2006
First ascent: Radu Tudorachi

Pictures


alt

Map



Retreat route: After finishing the route the classic, it follows the ridge to the left and finally get on a lane with debris. Followed downward it reaches the right of the first switchbacks, at about 100 m from the onset of the route "7 November"

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