Today we celebrate 1 year since Simfonia Lunii (Făgetul Ciucului (Pereţii Cichibiuc)) first ascent

Peretele Bardosului






  • Description and routes
  • Timeline
  • Weather

General characteristics


  

Description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The portion that comprises tracks 7 to 19 is also known as the cliff of the "Chimney".
The area with the trails 46-50 is known commonly as cliff "At the spring".

The route "Access" has two variants at the entrance, the left one being listed with 6-
The route STR8 Line ends the current in R1 of the "Sentinel of the Neck of Hell" (it is a common variant of input longer supported in Sentinel), but it can use and a top intermediary that presents the possibility booster.

State of the paths classical is bad.

"The Big face" is grassy and without repetition from before the 90s;
the key step of the first length of the "Horn High" is very poorly protected (because of the failure wedges of wood and pipes recessed is 6+ required) but shows good potential for the friend-sites. The last lengths are slightly friable;
"Direct Ceilings" requires demountable and presents a spreader broke in the ceiling of the 2;
TWENTIETH Anniversary presents the pitons with ears very small in not falling than carabiners thin (like the Russian titan);
The sentinel requires caution on the rings weaknesses of lengths 4-5 and attention in the pools of bad;
The "army" presents passages degraded and belay station unstable;
"Overhanging climbing to the Throat of Hell" is severely affected in the first 3 lengths due to moisture;
"The corner of Lonely" is poorly protected in parts.
Information source
Florin Kobe Mastacan - Topo Cheile Bicazului - http://www.fralpinism.ro/topo/bicaz.pdf
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/faleza-7-noiembrie/
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/faleza-hornul-mare/
http://www.cheilebicazului.info/topo/gatul-iadului/





Stone: limestone

Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Facelift With video8b+40 m0     Sport climbing00
2.Vertical7a30 m0     Sport climbing00
3.Autobiografie8b20 m0     Sport climbing00
4.Traseul 7 Noiembrie With description With topo4A, 6b+ (A1)3 pitches3     Classic route20
5.Traseul Gheorghe Spătaru4A3 pitches3     Classic route00
6.Faţa Mare With description With topo5A, (A2)9 pitches1     Classic route00
7.Acces5b+18 m0     Sport climbing00
8.El Dorado7a18 m0     Sport climbing00
9.Desperado7a18 m0     Sport climbing00
10.T-Rex7a22 m0     Sport climbing00
11.Denko6c+18 m0     Sport climbing00
12.Kuss-Kuss7a+18 m0     Sport climbing00
13.Kaua-Kaua7a/7a+18 m0     Sport climbing00
14.Freestyler7c18 m0     Sport climbing00
15.Hornul Mare 5 star route With description With topo With picture5B, 6b+ (A1)6 pitches4     Classic route21
16.Pino6c20 m0     Sport climbing00
17.Pinocchio6b+20 m0     Sport climbing00
18.Pinball7c20 m0     Sport climbing00
19.Gepetto6c+20 m0     Sport climbing00
20.Traseul Nenumit6A10 pitches0     Classic route00
21.Traseul A XX-a Aniversare With topo With picture6A, 7a/7a+ (A2/A3)10 pitches3     Classic route20
22.Traseul Tavanelor 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video6B, (A4)10 pitches5     Classic route30
23.Santinela de la Gâtul Iadului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video6A, (A2/A3)7 pitches5     Classic route101
24.STR8 Line With picture6a1 pitches5     Sport climbing00
25.The Lizard With description With picture6A, (6b+, A1)7 pitches0     Classic route40
26.Traseul Armata 5 star route With topo With picture6B, (A2)10 pitches5     Classic route20
27.Papaligal6a+30 m0     Sport climbing20
28.7 Păcate7c+10 m0     Sport climbing00
29.Direct Action8a+20 m0     Sport climbing00
30.Killer Edge8a25 m0     Sport climbing00
31.Surplomba de la Gâtul Iadului With topo6A, 7b (A2/A3)8 pitches2     Classic route00
32.Zeitgeist (Spiritul Timpului) 5 star route With description With topoED+, A4+11 pitches0     Aid10
33.Stamate8a+18 m0     Sport climbing00
34.Vaja Con Dios7c+18 m0     Sport climbing00
35.Time Is Everything6b+18 m0     Sport climbing00
36.Metro7a20 m0     Sport climbing00
37.Traseul Finala '64 With description With topo With video5B, 6b+/6c (A1/A2)4 pitches3     Classic route40
38.Take a Break7b+/7c18 m0     Sport climbing00
39.Take a Nap7b18 m0     Sport climbing00
40.Spiderman7c18 m0     Sport climbing00
41.Merda6b+18 m0     Sport climbing00
42.Jumbo7a+20 m0     Sport climbing00
43.Take Off7a+20 m0     Sport climbing00
44.Take a Beer7a+20 m0     Sport climbing00
45.Latin Express7a20 m0     Sport climbing00
46.Hopa Sus6c+20 m0     Sport climbing00
47.Acid Galactic8a+14 m0     Sport climbing00
48.Styks6a+12 m0     Sport climbing00
49.Du-ti Free7c12 m0     Sport climbing00
50.Traseul Colţul Singuratic With topo5B, (A1)9 pitches3     Classic route10
51.Creasta Ascunsă5B11 pitches0     Classic route10

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: After finishing the route the classic, it follows the ridge to the left and finally get on a lane with debris. Followed downward it reaches the right of the first switchbacks, at about 100 m from the onset of the route "7 November"

Topo



Route distribution


Traseu clasic
Traseu clasic
Traseu clasic
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

Acces 5b+

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

T-Rex 7a

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă

Denko 6c+

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

Freestyler 7c

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Pino 6c

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan
Escaladă
Escaladă

Gepetto 6c+

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă
Escaladă

Styks 6a+

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Du-ti Free 7c

Date: 2000
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Facelift 8b+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Vertical 7a

Date: 2001
First ascent: Eduard Prosza
Escaladă

Autobiografie 8b

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Pinball 7c

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă
Escaladă

Stamate 8a+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Cristi Simion
Escaladă
Escaladă

Spiderman 7c

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Jumbo 7a+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

Take a Beer 7a+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă

7 Păcate 7c+

Date: 2002
First ascent: Oliver Batâr
Escaladă
Escaladă
Traseu clasic

The Lizard 6A, (6b+, A1)

Date: 28.04.2006
First ascent: Radu Tudorachi

Pictures


alt

Map



Retreat route: After finishing the route the classic, it follows the ridge to the left and finally get on a lane with debris. Followed downward it reaches the right of the first switchbacks, at about 100 m from the onset of the route "7 November"

Weather in Cheile Bicazului