The Huge WallPeretele Uriaş (The Huge Wall)






  • Description and routes
  • Timeline
  • Pictures (3)
  • Map
  • Weather

General characteristics


 Sursă Cristi Popescu 

Description

Peretele Uriaș (the Huge Wall) rises the waters of Hășdate river and it is the highest rock wall in the area. Here you will find all kinds of routes, classical routes, protected mostly with old pegs, to modern routes with bolts.

Classical climbing routes are sometimes described by section of loose rock or very old in place protections.
Most of the popular routes start the base of the wall, immediately after you cross the Hășdate river.

Descent routes: classical routes exit the Domogled plateau, at the top of the wall. Some modern routes (e.g. Vaja con Dios) finish in the middle of the wall, you can continue on another route until the plateau or abseil down at the base of the wall.
Information source
Poze - Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro
            Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/





Stone: limestone
Orientation: S
Recommended season: spring
Altitude: 450 m
Height: 250 m

Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Zombi Coordinates817 m0     Sport climbing00
2.Quo Vadis 5 star route With description With topo With video Coordinates5B, 7-/7 (5, A1)6 pitches4,5     Classic route114
3.Ilegal With comments Coordinates7+5 pitches5     Sport climbing51
4.Vigh Tibor 5 star route With description With topo With video Coordinates English translation5B, 8- (6, A1)8 pitches4     Classic route84
5.Manşa Lungă Coordinates7-29 m0     Sport climbing00
6.ATA 2002 Coordinates7-23 m0     Sport climbing00
7.Madona Neagră 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With video Coordinates6A, 8+ (6+/7-, A1)8 pitches4     Classic route93
8.Ave Caesar Coordinates625 m0     Sport climbing00
9.Memorial Jenci Bacsi 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation6A, 7 (5, A1)9 pitches5     Classic route166
10.Calea Durerii 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates7+/8-5 pitches0     Trad10
11.Vaja con Dios (Memorial Cristi Sândean) Fantastic With description Coordinates84 pitches3,5     Sport climbing32
12.Ave Maria With description Coordinates6B, 6+/7- (6+, A1)8 pitches0     Classic route20
13.Omide Coordinates723 m0     Sport climbing00
14.Traseul Pitpalacilor With picture Coordinates7-26 m0     Trad00
15.Balta Cotită CoordinatesA210 m0     Aid00
16.ATA 2000 Coordinates725 m0     Sport climbing00
17.Bulinel 5 star route Fantastic With description With picture With video Coordinates6B, 8- (7, A1)10 pitches0     Classic route30
18.Pisi Coordinates612 m0     Sport climbing04
19.Jane Doe Coordinates6-12 m0     Sport climbing02
20.Popeye Coordinates612 m0     Sport climbing01
21.Bluto Coordinates7-12 m4     Sport climbing01
22.Olive Coordinates612 m0     Sport climbing01
23.Calvaria With description Coordinates6B, (6, A1+)9 pitches0     Classic route11
24.Demolatorul Coordinates714 m0     Sport climbing02
25.Fosula Coordinates7+14 m0     Sport climbing01
26.Marmota With comments Coordinates714 m2     Sport climbing02
27.Miau Miau Coordinates7-14 m2     Sport climbing03
28.Hell's balls Fantastic With description With picture Coordinates8+ (A1)9 pitches5     Classic route21
29.Fight for Life 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video CoordinatesA15 pitches5     Trad/Aid60
30.Premiera '85 Coordinates?, ?2 pitches0     Classic route00
31.Troia Coordinates6+12 m0     Sport climbing01
32.22 Coordinates6-12 m0     Sport climbing01
33.Kare Coordinates612 m0     Sport climbing01
34.Picătura Chinezească Coordinates6+13 m0     Sport climbing01
35.Phoenixul de Gheaţă Coordinates8-2 pitches0     Classic route00
36.Bălăurici Coordinates620 m0     Sport climbing00
37.Jgheabului Coordinates62 pitches0     Classic route00
38.Rocks Coordinates718 m0     Sport climbing00

Access and retreat

GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: The trail crossing the Turzii Gorge, cross the Hășdate river. Most of the routes start off immediately after you cross the water.
Retreat route: The Domogled Plateau or abseil down (only for some of the routes).

Topo

Topo

Topo trasee Peretele Uriaş. Sursă poză: Alin Brădean. Topo: Nicolae Budeancă (Gâgă)



Route distribution


Traseu clasic

Vigh Tibor 5B, 8- (6, A1)

Traseul Vigh Tibor, 5B, este amplasat în Peretele Uriaș din Cheile Turzii. Un traseu clasic pe mai multe lungimi de coardă, cu priveliște superbă asupra cheilor.

Date: 1969
First ascent: Tibor Vigh, László Molnár, B. Vigh
Traseu clasic
Traseu clasic

Quo Vadis 5B, 7-/7 (5, A1)

Un traseu interesant, dar care necesită aptitudini de orientare in prima și a patra lungime.

Date: 1987
First ascent: Silvius Iorga, János Kerekes
Traseu clasic

Calvaria 6B, (6, A1+)

Traseul nu e unul frumos aproape nimeni nu a fost în el de mai multe ori.

Date: 1987
First ascent: Octavian Brătilă (Bulinel), Aurel Geană, Diana Dincă, Silvius Iorga
Escaladă

Bluto 7-

Date: 1989
First ascent: Nicolae Giurgiu, Dan Moldovan
Escaladă

Popeye 6

Date: 1996
First ascent: Francisc Bereş, Sorin Sas
Escaladă
Escaladă

Zombi 8

Date: 1998
First ascent: Duţu Tătar
Traseu clasic
Escaladă

ATA 2000 7

Date: 2000
First ascent: Adrian Chifa, Adorján Nagy
Escaladă

Manşa Lungă 7-

Date: 2001
First ascent: Pajura Turda
Escaladă

ATA 2002 7-

Date: 2002
First ascent: Adorján Nagy, Rareş Boar
Escaladă

Omide 7

Date: 2002
First ascent: Adrian Munteanu
Escaladă

Bălăurici 6

Date: 2003
First ascent: Radu Oprea, M. Moldovan
Escaladă
Traseu clasic
Escaladă

Ave Caesar 6

Date: 2007
First ascent: Pajura Turda
Traseu clasic

Memorial Jenci Bacsi 6A, 7 (5, A1)

Memorial Jenci Baci este un traseu modern de mai multe lungimi de coardă amplasat în Cheile Turzii. O succesiune de 9 lungimi, cățărabile la liber pe stâncă frumoasă și curată în cel mai înalt perete din Chei.

Date: 2007
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă, Csaba Nagy, Marian Stoica, Aurel Geană, Adi Vana, Mihai Vasile
Escaladă

Pisi 6

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Jane Doe 6-

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Demolatorul 7

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Fosula 7+

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, I. Nagy
Escaladă

Marmota 7

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Miau Miau 7-

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Trad/Aid

Fight for Life A1

Date: 2009
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă
Escaladă

Rocks 7

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, Teodor Iuga
Escaladă

Ilegal 7+

Date: 2010
First ascent: Szabó Szoke
Traseu clasic
Escaladă

Troia 6+

Date: 2012
First ascent: Radu Oprea, R. Heghedus
Escaladă

22 6-

Date: 2012
First ascent: Radu Oprea, R. Heghedus
Escaladă

Kare 6

Date: 2012
First ascent: Radu Oprea, R. Heghedus
Trad
Traseu clasic

Hell's balls 8+ (A1)

Date: 08.10.2016
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă
Trad

Traseul Pitpalacilor 7-

Date: 28.08.2019
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă

Pictures


Sursă Cristi Popescu

Map



GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: The trail crossing the Turzii Gorge, cross the Hășdate river. Most of the routes start off immediately after you cross the water.
Retreat route: The Domogled Plateau or abseil down (only for some of the routes).

Weather in Cheile Turzii