Peretele Uriaş






  • Description and routes
  • Timeline
  • Pictures (3)
  • Map
  • Weather

General characteristics


 Sursă Cristi Popescu 

Description

Peretele Uriaș (the Huge Wall) rises the waters of Hășdate river and it is the highest rock wall in the area. Here you will find all kinds of routes, classical routes, protected mostly with old pegs, to modern routes with bolts.

Classical climbing routes are sometimes described by section of loose rock or very old in place protections.
Most of the popular routes start the base of the wall, immediately after you cross the Hășdate river.

Descent routes: classical routes exit the Domogled plateau, at the top of the wall. Some modern routes (e.g. Vaja con Dios) finish in the middle of the wall, you can continue on another route until the plateau or abseil down at the base of the wall.
Information source
Poze - Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro
            Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/





Stone: limestone
Orientation: S
Recommended season: spring
Altitude: 450 m
Height: 250 m

Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Zombi Coordinates7a17 m0     Sport climbing00
2.Quo Vadis 5 star route With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates5B, 6a+/6b (4c/4c+, A1)6 pitches4,5     Classic route125
3.Ilegal With comments Coordinates6b+/6c5 pitches5     Sport climbing52
4.Vigh Tibor 5 star route With description With topo With video Coordinates English translation5B, 6c/6c+ (5c, A1)8 pitches4     Classic route118
5.Manşa Lungă Coordinates6a+29 m0     Sport climbing00
6.ATA 2002 Coordinates6a+23 m0     Sport climbing00
7.Madona Neagră 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates6A, 7a+ (6a/6a+, A1)8 pitches4     Classic route94
8.Ave Caesar Coordinates5c25 m0     Sport climbing00
9.Memorial Jenci Bacsi 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation6A, 6b (4c/4c+, A1)9 pitches5     Classic route177
10.Calea Durerii 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates6c5 pitches0     Trad10
11.Vaja con Dios (Memorial Cristi Sândean) Fantastic With description Coordinates7a4 pitches3,5     Sport climbing34
12.Ave Maria With description Coordinates6B, 6a/6a+ (6a, A1)8 pitches0     Classic route20
13.Omide Coordinates6b23 m0     Sport climbing00
14.Tovarăşilor mei, pitpalacii With picture Coordinates6a+26 m0     Trad00
15.Dark Web With picture Coordinates6b+30 m0     Trad00
16.Balta Cotită CoordinatesA210 m0     Aid00
17.ATA 2000 Coordinates6b25 m0     Sport climbing00
18.Bulinel 5 star route Fantastic With description With picture With video Coordinates6B, 6c/6c+ (6b, A1)10 pitches0     Classic route30
19.Pisi Coordinates5c12 m4     Sport climbing06
20.Jane Doe Coordinates5b12 m4     Sport climbing04
21.Popeye Coordinates5c12 m0     Sport climbing04
22.Bluto Coordinates6a+12 m4     Sport climbing01
23.Olive Coordinates5c12 m0     Sport climbing01
24.Calvaria With description Coordinates6B, (5c, A1+)9 pitches0     Classic route11
25.Demolatorul Coordinates6b14 m0     Sport climbing02
26.Fosula Coordinates6b+/6c14 m0     Sport climbing01
27.Marmota With comments Coordinates6b14 m2     Sport climbing03
28.Miau Miau Coordinates6a+14 m2     Sport climbing04
29.Hell's balls Fantastic With description With picture Coordinates7b (A1)9 pitches4,5     Classic route24
30.Fight for Life 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video CoordinatesA15 pitches5     Trad/Aid60
31.Highway to Hole With description With picture CoordinatesA15 pitches0     Trad00
32.Premiera '85 Coordinates?2 pitches0     Classic route00
33.Troia Coordinates6a12 m0     Sport climbing02
34.22 Coordinates5b12 m0     Sport climbing02
35.Kare Coordinates5c12 m0     Sport climbing02
36.Picătura Chinezească Coordinates6a13 m0     Sport climbing02
37.Phoenixul de Gheaţă Coordinates6c/6c+2 pitches0     Classic route00
38.Bălăurici Coordinates5c20 m0     Sport climbing00
39.Jgheabului Coordinates5c2 pitches0     Classic route10
40.Rocks Coordinates6b18 m0     Sport climbing00

Access and retreat

GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: The trail crossing the Turzii Gorge, cross the Hășdate river. Most of the routes start off immediately after you cross the water.
Retreat route: The Domogled Plateau or abseil down (only for some of the routes).

Topo



Route distribution


Traseu clasic

Vigh Tibor 5B, 6c/6c+ (5c, A1)

Traseul Vigh Tibor, 5B, este amplasat în Peretele Uriaș din Cheile Turzii. Un traseu clasic pe mai multe lungimi de coardă, cu priveliște superbă asupra cheilor.

Date: 1969
First ascent: Tibor Vigh, László Molnár, B. Vigh
Traseu clasic
Traseu clasic

Quo Vadis 5B, 6a+/6b (4c/4c+, A1)

Un traseu interesant, dar care necesită aptitudini de orientare în prima și a patra lungime.

Date: 1987
First ascent: Silvius Iorga, János Kerekes
Traseu clasic

Calvaria 6B, (5c, A1+)

Traseul nu e unul frumos aproape nimeni nu a fost în el de mai multe ori.

Date: 1987
First ascent: Octavian Brătilă (Bulinel), Aurel Geană, Diana Dincă, Silvius Iorga
Escaladă
Escaladă

Popeye 5c

Date: 1996
First ascent: Francisc Bereş, Sorin Sas
Escaladă
Escaladă

Zombi 7a

Date: 1998
First ascent: Duţu Tătar
Traseu clasic
Escaladă
Escaladă

Manşa Lungă 6a+

Date: 2001
First ascent: Pajura Turda
Escaladă
Escaladă

Omide 6b

Date: 2002
First ascent: Adrian Munteanu
Escaladă

Bălăurici 5c

Date: 2003
First ascent: Radu Oprea, M. Moldovan
Escaladă
Traseu clasic
Escaladă

Ave Caesar 5c

Date: 2007
First ascent: Pajura Turda
Traseu clasic

Memorial Jenci Bacsi 6A, 6b (4c/4c+, A1)

Memorial Jenci Baci este un traseu modern de mai multe lungimi de coardă amplasat în Cheile Turzii. O succesiune de 9 lungimi, cățărabile la liber pe stâncă frumoasă și curată în cel mai înalt perete din Chei.

Date: 2007
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă, Csaba Nagy, Marian Stoica, Aurel Geană, Adi Vana, Mihai Vasile
Escaladă

Pisi 5c

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Jane Doe 5b

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Demolatorul 6b

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Fosula 6b+/6c

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, I. Nagy
Escaladă

Marmota 6b

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Escaladă

Miau Miau 6a+

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, N. Bozdog
Trad/Aid

Fight for Life A1

Date: 2009
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă
Escaladă

Rocks 6b

Date: 2009
First ascent: Radu Oprea, Teodor Iuga
Escaladă

Ilegal 6b+/6c

Date: 2010
First ascent: Szabó Szoke
Escaladă

Troia 6a

Date: 2012
First ascent: Radu Oprea, R. Heghedus
Escaladă

22 5b

Date: 2012
First ascent: Radu Oprea, R. Heghedus
Escaladă

Kare 5c

Date: 2012
First ascent: Radu Oprea, R. Heghedus
Trad

Calea Durerii 6c

Date: 2013
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă
Traseu clasic

Hell's balls 7b (A1)

Date: 08.10.2016
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă
Trad
Trad

Dark Web 6b+

Date: 01.09.2019
First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă, Attila Tóth

Pictures


Sursă Cristi Popescu

Map



GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: The trail crossing the Turzii Gorge, cross the Hășdate river. Most of the routes start off immediately after you cross the water.
Retreat route: The Domogled Plateau or abseil down (only for some of the routes).

Weather in Cheile Turzii