Today we celebrate 80 years since Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (Umărul Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 85 years since Brâna Aeriană - Creasta Văii Albe (Văi şi brâne) first ascent, 59 years since Hornul Piticului (Padina lui Călineţ) first ascent, 81 years since Traseul Sudic din Peretele Central (Peretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş) first ascent, 49 years since Traseul Citadela Sfărâmată (Citadela Sfărâmată) first ascent, 1 year since Hornul Izvorului (Văiuga) first ascent

Ţancul Mic






  • Description and routes
  • Timeline
  • Pictures (3)
  • Map
  • Weather

General characteristics


 Ţancul Mic 

Description

Tancul Mic is, without any shadow of doubt, one of the most popular multi-pitch climbing walls in Costila. Its reduced height and route diversity offer something for every type of climber. Tancul Mic is also a good place for climbing schools on conglomerate, but holds also harder routes.
The routes here are mostly climbed in uncertain weather, as the wall is close to Costila Hut and also you can bail fast by abseiling.

From the Costila refuge, altitude 1670m, the superior border of the forest and the ragged terrain of Costila Valley can be found. The entrance to the this section of the valley is guarded by two rock spires: on the south side Tancul Mic (on the left as you climb the valley), bigger and pointier; on the north side Tancul Ascutit, smaller and rounder. Names don't always stick to geographical realities.

Acces to the south face: from Costila refuge cross Costila Valley and follow the path that traverses at the base of the wall. Continue upwards, through the forest, sticking close to the wall. You will very soon see the name of the routes written on the wall.

Descent: it is easy to abseil from most of the routes. As the specific of the routes from this wall is traversing, most of the time you will have to use belay stations from other routes. From the top of the wall you can follow the ridge West, towards the walls behind, where you will find a cable leading to a solid tree. From the tree you can reach the base of the south face through an abseil.

Water source: one spring at the entrance to the unmarked trail leading to Valea Alba (about 45min to Costila Refuge); a second spring on the path leading to Costila Refuge (20 min to the Costila Refuge), but this one can be dry or dirty at times.

Accomodation: Costila Hut



Information source
alpinet.org - http://alpinet.org/iic/iic00-11/1141.HTM
fralpinism.ro - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
Titus Gonțea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2010/08/alpinism-mizantrotheosis-2010.html
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000
Komm mit 1979




Stone: conglomerate
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m

Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Fisura Răsucită 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation4B, 6+ (6, A0)4 pitches4,6     Classic route2729
2.Fisura Însorită 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation5A, 7+ (6+, A1)2 pitches5     Classic route1210
3.Şoricelul With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B, 7+/8-4 pitches3     Classic route11
4.Pasărea cu Barbă With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B, 74 pitches5     Classic route21
5.Hermann Buhl 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation5A, 7- (6, A0)4 pitches4,666666     Classic route3324
6.Noua Dictatură With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A, 8 (7-/7, A0)3 pitches0     Classic route10
7.Love Hearts (DDR - Din Dragostea Rămasă) Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates8-2 pitches4     Sport climbing32
8.Abyssus Inexpugnabilis Fantastic With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates9/9+4 pitches5     Classic route42
9.Hardy With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B, 8- (7, A0)4 pitches3,5     Classic route72
10.Suzana 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation5B, 7+/8- (7-, A0)4 pitches5     Classic route103
11.Mizantrotheosis Fantastic With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates5B, 9- (7+/8-, A0)2 pitches5     Classic route31
12.Flamura Roşie With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B, 6+ (6-, A0)2 pitches3     Classic route25
13.Veveriţa With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B, 8-2 pitches0     Classic route33
14.Bursucul (Faţa Nordică) Unidentified route With description With topo With picture Coordinates3A4 pitches0     Classic route00
15.Iliada With description With topo With picture CoordinatesM64 pitches0     Mixt20
16.Petit Jackson With description With topo With picture CoordinatesM44 pitches4     Mixt42

Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 49.2" E 25° 30' 00.3"    
Acces duration: 1h45min
Retreat duration: 45min

Topo



Route distribution


Traseu clasic
Traseu clasic

Suzana 5B, 7+/8- (7-, A0)

Traseu frumos, de cățărare liberă, foarte bine asigurat.

Date: 1975
First ascent: Alpinişti cehi
Traseu clasic

Şoricelul 5B, 7+/8-

Date: 1987
First ascent: Dan Florescu
Traseu clasic

Pasărea cu Barbă 5B, 7

Un traseu deosebit, puțin exigent, însă bine asigurat.

Date: 1987
First ascent: Dan Florescu
Mixt

Iliada M6

Date: 2001
First ascent: George Stroie (Bivuacu)

Pictures


Ţancul Mic

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 49.2" E 25° 30' 00.3"    

Weather in Coştila