Rock climbing in Ţancul Mic, Coştila

10 yeas ago, Nicolae Dobre was leaving us. Today we celebrate 64 years since Fisura Margaretelor (Peretele din Vâlcelul lui Theodoru (Vâlcelul Ascuns)) first ascent

Ţancul Mic

ClimbRomania > Routes > Bucegi > Coştila > Ţancul Mic

Description and routes
Timeline
Pictures (2)
Map
Weather

General characteristics

Description

Tancul Mic is, without any shadow of doubt, one of the most popular multi-pitch climbing walls in Costila. Its reduced height and route diversity offer something for every type of climber. Tancul Mic is also a good place for climbing schools on conglomerate, but holds also harder routes.
The routes here are mostly climbed in uncertain weather, as the wall is close to Costila Hut and also you can bail fast by abseiling.

From the Costila refuge, altitude 1670m, the superior border of the forest and the ragged terrain of Costila Valley can be found. The entrance to the this section of the valley is guarded by two rock spires: on the south side Tancul Mic (on the left as you climb the valley), bigger and pointier; on the north side Tancul Ascutit, smaller and rounder. Names don't always stick to geographical realities.

Acces to the south face: from Costila refuge cross Costila Valley and follow the path that traverses at the base of the wall. Continue upwards, through the forest, sticking close to the wall. You will very soon see the name of the routes written on the wall.

Descent: it is easy to abseil from most of the routes. As the specific of the routes from this wall is traversing, most of the time you will have to use belay stations from other routes. From the top of the wall you can follow the ridge West, towards the walls behind, where you will find a cable leading to a solid tree. From the tree you can reach the base of the south face through an abseil.

Water source: one spring at the entrance to the unmarked trail leading to Valea Alba (about 45min to Costila Refuge); a second spring on the path leading to Costila Refuge (20 min to the Costila Refuge), but this one can be dry or dirty at times.

Accomodation: Costila Hut

Information source

alpinet.org - http://alpinet.org/iic/iic00-11/1141.HTM
fralpinism.ro - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
Titus Gonțea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2010/08/alpinism-mizantrotheosis-2010.html
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000
Komm mit 1979

Stone: conglomerate

Accommodation: Coştila Refuge

Orientation: S-E

Altitude: 1600 m

Height: 150 m

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Show routes

All With description With pictures With topo Recommended

Routes

Nr.	Name	Grade	Length	Beauty	Type	Diaries	Climbs
1.	Fisura Răsucită	4B, 6+ (6, A0)	4 pitches	3,833333	Classic route	29	30
2.	Fisura Însorită	5A, 7+ (6+, A1)	2 pitches	4	Classic route	12	13
3.	Şoricelul	5B, 7+/8-	4 pitches	3	Classic route	2	1
4.	Pasărea cu Barbă	5B, 7+/8-	4 pitches	5	Classic route	2	1
5.	Hermann Buhl	5A, 7- (6, A0)	4 pitches	4,75	Classic route	34	26
6.	Noua Dictatură	5A, 8 (7-/7, A0)	3 pitches	0	Classic route	1	0
7.	Love Hearts (DDR - Din Dragostea Rămasă)	8-	2 pitches	4	Sport climbing	3	2
8.	Abyssus Inexpugnabilis	9/9+	4 pitches	5	Classic route	4	2
9.	Hardy	5B, 8- (7, A0)	4 pitches	3	Classic route	8	4
10.	Suzana	5B, 8 (7-, A0)	4 pitches	5	Classic route	10	3
11.	Mizantrotheosis	5B, 9/9+ (7+/8-, A0)	2 pitches	5	Classic route	4	1
12.	Flamura Roşie	3B, 6+ (6-, A0)	2 pitches	3	Classic route	2	5
13.	Veveriţa	3B, 8-	2 pitches	0	Classic route	3	3
14.	Bursucul (Faţa Nordică)	3A	4 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
15.	Iliada	M6	4 pitches	0	Mixt	2	0
16.	Petit Jackson	M4	4 pitches	4	Mixt	4	2